yea i know about the pp6 but i don't think it's worth the cost of the unit + the harness ;(

 

yeah piggybacks suck anyway. Do you guys think they could just save the stock settings and reflash it back if i need warranty work?

By the way i just ordered the ipd lightweight crank pulley i'll let you know how big of a difference it is!

 

Hey guys..
Took me like a week before i got to this page (i read this at work lol)
I just bought a 07 black impreza 2.5i se (canada here). Looking forward to some mods. Actually I am looking forward to getting my car (its on a train right now for they had no more black 07's 2.5i se manuals in like all of montreal.

I find this forum is superior and cant wait to start chatting bout our scoobys.

 

check out NASIOC as well if you want want to add more info (and it helps with research to get opinions of people on 2 forums)

 

Ok so there is hope of WRX power... if only the 2.5i comunity starts goin big instead of just doing all these bolt ons...

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1022154

 

This may sound like a stupid question, but, other than adding parts to add more HP, what are some ways to get some of the existing HP to the wheels? I think things like Engine Dampers and stronger transmission mounts help by reducing losses through moving engine and drivetrain components, but are there other things like drivetrain parts (i.e. lightweight items and such) that can be replaced to assist in this?

 

lightweight or underdriven pulleys, lightweight flywheel, a carbon driveshaft, using different diff/tranny fluid...

i believe lighter rotors/wheels, might help in freeing up the HP that is already there but i think the main point in these is to help stop faster...by having less weight rotating at the wheels the less work needed to stop them...

isn't the formula like for every 1lb of rotational mass = 7lbs of stationary mass (this might be wrong but i know there is a formula that can convert rotational mass into it's stationary equiv)

 

Thanks, that's what I thought, but wasn't sure. I already have the lightweight pulley, it's recommended not to do both the flywheel and the pulley. Does anyone make a carbon driveshaft to fit an 06 2.5i, if so, where? When you say different Diff/tranny fluid, are you saying Synthetic, and what would you recommend?

 

im not 100% sure who does make one but i know someone makes on for the WRX which i believe uses the same length shaft the 2.5i does (seeing how they both have the same center diff and tranny)...check out NASIOC for that one, im sure someone has covered it (they are like $1500 though)

with the fluids i meant something thinner...a lot of people use a blend...i think it's like redline and something else (again someone on here should know)...it's used so the gears can turn more freely then under the recommended fluids...but i'm also sure this may cause problems...

as far as the pulley and flywheel go you can run both if you don't have to do a lot of stop and go traffic cause the car will prolly stall out of a lot in those situations...but i also doubt changing both will give you a large enough result to even warrant doing both...so...stick with one or the other and spend the cash you would have wasted on something else (like an intake or exhaust)

edit: ok i looked on nasioc and i found this link http://www.acpt.com/

if you wanna check you the nasioc post that would be...http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...bon+driveshaft

 

when are people gonna start doing big things like TB boaring and new pistons and heads? I've heard of people with like 05's putting on 2.2 heads and making 11.2:1 compression. Does suby make a 2.2i with variable valve lift in like canada/australia or something? If so and it was compatable with the 2.5i, i would definatly be the first one to do this and report back!

 

i don't think so...you will either have to lose the AVCS if you want that kind of compression or swap out the pistons...but running 12:1 wont do much unless you have the mods to back it up...and a very nice EM would be needed to run 93oct at that compression...

i wouldn't mind doing an all N/A build on the 2.5i but just thinking what is needed to break 220whp is just sickening in all honesty...

port and polish, 12:1 cr forged pistons, new cams (which i don't think anyone makes AVCS cams yet), headers, header-back exhaust, intake, EM, try and lighten the drivetrain...

what i wanna know is if you bought 8.5:1 or 9:1 cr forged pistons could you bolt on the STi DOHC heads and run a turbo? or would leaving it SOHC be better?

 

I got filter!!





Well,.. I'm not sure if its the placebo effect or not but mine being a 4EAT, i noticed that when I floor it, it shifts when the rev meter reaches close to 7k rpm. Before, with the stock filter, my rev meter shifts when it reaches around 6k. I notice getting a tad more power at the high end tho. So thats good.

I'm not sure about the low end torque and the throttle response cuz i'm still getting that whole placebo effect playing in my head. maybe i'm just excited to put in the new filter that everyone's talking about.

I'll let you folks know about it later on. I just need a little more daily driving and I'll come up with my full feedback.

 

Shifts 'around' 7,000 rpm?
I think it should be shifting at about 6,500 rpm if i'm correct.
That is when the rev limiter comes into play and stops the revs from going any further.
Somewhere from 6,300 to 6,500 rpm.

 

yea on the 2.5i manual i know it kick in at 6334 (at least that is what the laptop said when i hit red line lol) the auto prolly shift around 5.5k with the filter you prolly get it to red line now

 

i have done both...why isnt it reccomended? ive had mine on for 75K miles