My 11' Sti is RUINED!
06-05-2011, 09:06 PM
#121
Registered User
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Walnut Creek/BayArea, CA
Posts: 1,831
Car Info: 2009 WRB WRX Sedan
I did a little digging on Cobbs website and it doesnt seem like your the only one with issues. http://www.cobbforums.com/forums/for...n-Instructions on there. The first 2 threads are people with issues with their 2011 STi's and Accessports. Unfortunately there are no answers but gives you a little leverage if you wanted to call Cobb again.
06-05-2011, 09:14 PM
#122
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Jose
Posts: 53
Car Info: 2011 Subaru WRX STI HB
06-07-2011, 10:19 PM
#123
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Bay Area, Ca.
Posts: 180
Car Info: Java Black 04' STI
I certainly seems like something about the Ap is messing up. I also think the cruise light is a CEL but for some reason the AP isn't reading the codes (correctly or at all).
On the other hand, if you can afford and mod a brand new STi, you should be able to afford to take it to a reputable tuner and just have it protuned and be done with it. They should also be able to tell you if it's the AP causing problems for no extra charge. Also you do not need a CAI (already been told), fuel injectors or fuel pump for a stg 2 protune with the stock turbo. I know it takes time but I would work backwards and unistall everything and just install the AP and try to run a stg1 map and see what happens. If it still acts up you can assume it's the AP or possibly you messed up the MAF sensor during the intake install. MAf sensor can't be that expensive, try that and/or send the AP back to cobb and have them replace it or reprogram it (whatever they do over there.) Good Luck and try not to be the next freshwrx. People on the internet can be do some pretty intrusive things if you **** them off enough. Just ask Charlie (aka Freshwrx).
On the other hand, if you can afford and mod a brand new STi, you should be able to afford to take it to a reputable tuner and just have it protuned and be done with it. They should also be able to tell you if it's the AP causing problems for no extra charge. Also you do not need a CAI (already been told), fuel injectors or fuel pump for a stg 2 protune with the stock turbo. I know it takes time but I would work backwards and unistall everything and just install the AP and try to run a stg1 map and see what happens. If it still acts up you can assume it's the AP or possibly you messed up the MAF sensor during the intake install. MAf sensor can't be that expensive, try that and/or send the AP back to cobb and have them replace it or reprogram it (whatever they do over there.) Good Luck and try not to be the next freshwrx. People on the internet can be do some pretty intrusive things if you **** them off enough. Just ask Charlie (aka Freshwrx).
06-07-2011, 10:41 PM
#124
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Jose
Posts: 53
Car Info: 2011 Subaru WRX STI HB
i checked my MAF today and it was squeaky clean new. i'm getting the injectors with the fuel pump and stainless steel fuel lines cause i plan on running a strong E85 map.
06-08-2011, 12:49 AM
#125
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: brentwood CA
Posts: 3,567
Car Info: 2015 SWP WRX
Have you not taken this to a tuner yet? Seems like that's what would help the most. If this is something that is happening repeatedly, any tuning place around this area should be able to diagnose whatever is going on with your car. GST does great work and would most likely point you in the direction of fixing your car.
06-19-2011, 04:16 PM
#127
-- Ed
07-11-2011, 05:33 PM
#128
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: san jose , south bay
Posts: 62
Car Info: 2005 suby sti
agreed ^^^^^^
the jerking is because the diff is locked and the wheels are spinning the same amount of rotations per side but if your turning. the inside wheel is spinng less than the outside. like the circumfrence of a circle right. be carefull i lock my diff when i know im going to have the tires loose in gravel and dirt but the pavement can be tricky and if it jerks and locks up you can bust a drive shaft real quick. that wont be fun to fix! take care hope everything works out with the other issue
the jerking is because the diff is locked and the wheels are spinning the same amount of rotations per side but if your turning. the inside wheel is spinng less than the outside. like the circumfrence of a circle right. be carefull i lock my diff when i know im going to have the tires loose in gravel and dirt but the pavement can be tricky and if it jerks and locks up you can bust a drive shaft real quick. that wont be fun to fix! take care hope everything works out with the other issue
08-02-2011, 05:52 AM
#130
To be honest it most likely the intake causing the issue, on the LGT, cobb reported that the SPT intake was reducing power and was cauing MAF inversions, yeah I didn't find any other proof of that but their maps are pretty specific and I guess I could see it as a marketing scheme too. I would try taking it off and see if that helps. Also is the crawford performance DP a bell mouth and what is the diameter of it because if it is bigger than 3" that may be causing an issue of too much flow and throwing your tune off too. Check all your vacuum lines too making sure nothing came apart, on my car I had the slightest gap on my stock intake box and at idle or stopping or starting my car bogged or was acting like it was dying, maybe could be a clamp on your intake too. Also I'm assuming that the AEM is stock diameter and not a Big MAF intake is it? If so that is a big issue and going back to stock box will fix the problem. Cobb maps really don't have much lineage as it looks like after I did research on my car vs SPT intakes. Also Sione here on the forum has an ECU issue on this 2011, check that out too, he has 60 degrees of AVCS lift or something, or you could somehow be running on less cylinders.
PS, I would listen to some people too and not call them out, that won't get you any help either.
PS, I would listen to some people too and not call them out, that won't get you any help either.
Last edited by Heedz; 08-02-2011 at 05:55 AM.
08-03-2011, 02:27 PM
#131
hill assist and cruise control and tire pressure lights flashing usually is in conjunction with dccd and tpms etc
So either after you flash it, and the ecu some how interfering with those sensors.
They changed the 11 ecu vs the 04-10 ecus
I'll see if i can find some wiring diagrams to chase them, as i haven't really pulled part a Gr chassis much.
So either after you flash it, and the ecu some how interfering with those sensors.
They changed the 11 ecu vs the 04-10 ecus
I'll see if i can find some wiring diagrams to chase them, as i haven't really pulled part a Gr chassis much.
08-11-2011, 10:28 AM
#132
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: San Jose, CA
Posts: 784
Car Info: 2011 STi Sedan Plasma Blue
My right 2cyl are not firing at all. I spent some time (about a month) trying to figure this out, then when I plugged in my AP to read live data, I saw that my right intake cam is reporting 60deg advance, that is physically impossible if the cam gear is on correctly (timing belt installed correctly).
I replace my Cam sensor, and still got 60deg no matter what RPM idle or not. It suppose to be 0deg at idle. I uninstall my AP and had the same results so I thought I had a bad ECU, so I left my AP uninstall, and had my ECU replaced out of my own pocket money becuase I modded the hell out of my car its no way warranty would cover my car now. So I had my new ECU installed and now my AP will not flash my new ECU, I did notice the new ECU has been replaced with a newer version?! My old ECU (made in Feb 2011) part number was 22765AD030 and the new one is 22765AD031, I called COBB about it and they never herd about this new ECU 22765AD031, they not even sure why I can't flash my car any more.
I do feel that COBB is not keeping up to date with the new 2011 STi, but I also feel my cam is not my AP problem. I hooked up an oscilloscope with one channel to the crank sensor and the other channel to the cam sensor and with the car idling I can see my left bank intake cam is opening at 0deg matching up with TDC of the crank sensor, so I move to the right intake and I see its opening up ~50-60 before TDC so this confirm there is something physically wrong with my cam!
I had someone replace my pistons in my motor, and I ask that person:
Me: "How tight did you tighten down my cam gear?"
Stupid mechanic: "I torq it down to 65ft/lb"
Me: "Its suppose to be 22ft/lb"
Stupid mechanic: "Oh is that why the cam gear center piece spun on me when I was torqing it!"
Me: "What?! And you tell me this now after I bought a new ECU for $715?!"
Stupid mechanic: "I always torq them to 65ft/lb never had a problem."
Me: "Oh so my other cam gears are jacked too!?"
So I bought a new cam gear for the side that is reporting 60deg from Stevens creek subaru for $170. Hopefully when it comes in it fixes my problem, if not I need to drop my car off at AutoHQ,
08-11-2011, 12:41 PM
#135
Just wanted correct Heedz on my car about some new info we just found out.
My right 2cyl are not firing at all. I spent some time (about a month) trying to figure this out, then when I plugged in my AP to read live data, I saw that my right intake cam is reporting 60deg advance, that is physically impossible if the cam gear is on correctly (timing belt installed correctly).
I replace my Cam sensor, and still got 60deg no matter what RPM idle or not. It suppose to be 0deg at idle. I uninstall my AP and had the same results so I thought I had a bad ECU, so I left my AP uninstall, and had my ECU replaced out of my own pocket money becuase I modded the hell out of my car its no way warranty would cover my car now. So I had my new ECU installed and now my AP will not flash my new ECU, I did notice the new ECU has been replaced with a newer version?! My old ECU (made in Feb 2011) part number was 22765AD030 and the new one is 22765AD031, I called COBB about it and they never herd about this new ECU 22765AD031, they not even sure why I can't flash my car any more.
I do feel that COBB is not keeping up to date with the new 2011 STi, but I also feel my cam is not my AP problem. I hooked up an oscilloscope with one channel to the crank sensor and the other channel to the cam sensor and with the car idling I can see my left bank intake cam is opening at 0deg matching up with TDC of the crank sensor, so I move to the right intake and I see its opening up ~50-60 before TDC so this confirm there is something physically wrong with my cam!
I had someone replace my pistons in my motor, and I ask that person:
Me: "How tight did you tighten down my cam gear?"
Stupid mechanic: "I torq it down to 65ft/lb"
Me: "Its suppose to be 22ft/lb"
Stupid mechanic: "Oh is that why the cam gear center piece spun on me when I was torqing it!"
Me: "What?! And you tell me this now after I bought a new ECU for $715?!"
Stupid mechanic: "I always torq them to 65ft/lb never had a problem."
Me: "Oh so my other cam gears are jacked too!?"
So I bought a new cam gear for the side that is reporting 60deg from Stevens creek subaru for $170. Hopefully when it comes in it fixes my problem, if not I need to drop my car off at AutoHQ,
My right 2cyl are not firing at all. I spent some time (about a month) trying to figure this out, then when I plugged in my AP to read live data, I saw that my right intake cam is reporting 60deg advance, that is physically impossible if the cam gear is on correctly (timing belt installed correctly).
I replace my Cam sensor, and still got 60deg no matter what RPM idle or not. It suppose to be 0deg at idle. I uninstall my AP and had the same results so I thought I had a bad ECU, so I left my AP uninstall, and had my ECU replaced out of my own pocket money becuase I modded the hell out of my car its no way warranty would cover my car now. So I had my new ECU installed and now my AP will not flash my new ECU, I did notice the new ECU has been replaced with a newer version?! My old ECU (made in Feb 2011) part number was 22765AD030 and the new one is 22765AD031, I called COBB about it and they never herd about this new ECU 22765AD031, they not even sure why I can't flash my car any more.
I do feel that COBB is not keeping up to date with the new 2011 STi, but I also feel my cam is not my AP problem. I hooked up an oscilloscope with one channel to the crank sensor and the other channel to the cam sensor and with the car idling I can see my left bank intake cam is opening at 0deg matching up with TDC of the crank sensor, so I move to the right intake and I see its opening up ~50-60 before TDC so this confirm there is something physically wrong with my cam!
I had someone replace my pistons in my motor, and I ask that person:
Me: "How tight did you tighten down my cam gear?"
Stupid mechanic: "I torq it down to 65ft/lb"
Me: "Its suppose to be 22ft/lb"
Stupid mechanic: "Oh is that why the cam gear center piece spun on me when I was torqing it!"
Me: "What?! And you tell me this now after I bought a new ECU for $715?!"
Stupid mechanic: "I always torq them to 65ft/lb never had a problem."
Me: "Oh so my other cam gears are jacked too!?"
So I bought a new cam gear for the side that is reporting 60deg from Stevens creek subaru for $170. Hopefully when it comes in it fixes my problem, if not I need to drop my car off at AutoHQ,
-- Ed