stg2lgcy00

iTrader: (23)

Well I got the header installed on Friday. It ended up leaking from the uppipe when I first tried it out. Gave it 1/2 throttle and could hear a hissing sound and smell exhaust when I let off (had the windows down). Removed the uppipe gasket and saw that it was turning darker on one side of the metal lip in the center. Sprayed soap water on the joint between the header/uppipe while running and it was getting spit back out and making bubbles form.

Added a 2nd gasket today and tightened everything back up and took it for a drive. I'm not hearing the same noise as before but I'm still hearing some hissing but I can't tell if its an exhaust leak or not. I know the metal on this header is a lot thinner than the oem one, so maybe I'm just able to hear the exhaust running through the header more easily now? I'm still able to hit full boost no problem and there are no more bubbles forming when I spray the soap water on the header/uppipe joint. Going wot with the windows rolled up getting on to the freeway sounds the same as oem more or less, not noticing anything abnormal there. I've heard some people describe a header leak like a loud screeching sound, and I'm definitely not getting that.

Maybe someone on here could go for a spin and help me decide once and for all if it is indeed leaking.

Anyway here's a pic of it installed:



Yea I'm able to do this same thing even while the car is still running and not get burned. Luckily I was able to move the wiring for the radiator further away than I originally thought, so now that's no longer in danger of getting melted.

aboothman

iTrader: (8)

Take a length of vacuum hose.. (I like the stuff that comes with a perrin catch can). Stick one end in your ear, and then move the other end around all of your flanges.

I like to use Permatex copper spray on ALL gaskets in the intake and exhaust track. I think the most likely issues is that your uppipe flange is not completely flat.

stg2lgcy00

iTrader: (23)

Good idea, I'll give that a try.

BTW wheres the best place to pick up the Permatex spray? Might try that out also if it comes down to it.

aboothman

iTrader: (8)

Autozone, Kragen/O'really, Napa, Pep Boys.....

I would definitely take the header to a machine shop, or anyone with a good sander, and have them sand the flanges flat.

stg2lgcy00

iTrader: (23)

Yea I took the header to a shop before getting coated. He set it up on a milling machine and made the flanges flat and level with each other. I didn't have him touch the header/uppipe flange because it didn't appear to be warped like the other 2 were.

I'll try using the tubing to check for any more possible leaks.

BSMdriver

iTrader: (3)

[QUOTE=stg2lgcy00;2998003]Picked up my header today, I gotta say it looks damn nice. The guys at Accessories Plus really came through.

Plan to install it on Friday or over the weekend.

BTW some wiring for my radiator harness will be ~1.5'' from where the header is. I think I can relocate it a lil further away, just wondering if this coating will hold in enough heat so stuff around it won't melt.

Here is oem compared to the uncoated Borla...


hey i think thats my old header! looks nice man great job! looks good!

stg2lgcy00

iTrader: (23)

EDIT: The header hasn't been leaking for the past week since adding a 2nd uppipe gasket, see below.


Looks like I'm starting to get a very small leak on the driver side flange. Just to ensure no more leaks I'm gonna remove the header and use the copper spray then reassemble.

Few q's I had for ya..

How many coats did you put on the gaskets?

How long did you wait to install after spraying them?

Did you start the car up right after install or wait overnight?

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

Just got back from speaking to a shop that is interested in taking over on my car and getting it to the point where I can take it from there. Basically they will be sorting out ALL of the wiring and sensors, get it to the point where you can turn the key and start it, align it, make sure the exhaust mates up, replace the front control arms (with my JDM STi pieces) and a few other things. Then, I will finish the rest of the assembly and get the car ready for whatever paint work it needs and find someone to tune it. Once it's tuned, I really want to get a FMIC setup on it unless I can do that off the bat, but I suspect I will have issues smogging it with a FMIC. Just want it to be low key, and use my L hood.

I am not even going to say a date/time when I hope to have the car done since that would be stupid but either way I am really excited and I can't wait to have it running.

aboothman

iTrader: (8)

I just put on a medium coat that I cannot see through. One coat, as it is not paint. Wait 5/10 minutes before install to allow it to get tacky. I do not think startup matters.

I actually use permatex grey RTV now as it gets REALLY hard to remove, and it stands up to heat well. THAT you have to let dry, preferrably 6-10 hours or overnight.

Glad to hear that you are going to get it finished!!

stg2lgcy00

iTrader: (23)

Thanks, I didn't see your post till now. I ended up putting 2 moderate coats on the gaskets and let them sit for about 5min. Started up the car after everything was tight, let it get up to operating temp then shut it down. Once everything cooled off I re-tightened a little bit more then took it for a drive. Everything seems good as of now.

If I ever have a problem again maybe I can try the grey RTV you mentioned.

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

Whoa there - let's not get ahead of ourselves... Haha.. It's proceeding to the next step. Still excited. I need to get some of those 240SX flares too...

aboothman

iTrader: (8)

Glad that it helped...so far

Good point haha

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

B U M P!!!

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

Oh man I am so ****ing sick of having a broken Subaru in my garage. I literally HATE this car and would do just about anything to see it gone. Paying someone to haul all this **** to a wrecking yard would put me money ahead at this point. I would only be losing around ~$8k. Heaven forbid one of the shops stepped up and took it in, that figure would climb substantially to the point where I would need to have body work done. I lost interest in this car before I even gathered all the parts for the job. Maybe some time back in August of last year or something.

Let this be a lesson to anyone thinking about starting a swap. Kudos to you if you finished one. I see most of the swaps go one of two ways: professionally built and then sold immediately to recoup costs, or end up like mine - a pile of broken parts that just sits forever. Jeff - I think yours is one of the only ones I know of like it, and I hope you enjoy it for a long time.

If I were adamant about having a swapped early Impreza, I would look for a 1998, 1999, 2000, or 2001 car PERIOD and start from scratch with iWire. I am confident that I could have completed something like that. This '95 is too far away and this half-baked "swap the '95 to a '98 and then complete it" was doomed before it got started.

Whatever you do, don't try to swap a pre-'98 car if you want to do the interior too. Just don't.

If one of the shops that was going to do the swap (I did the physical swap while waiting to hear from a shop) called me tomorrow and said they were finally ready to take the car in, I am not sure I would go for it.

Maybe two months ago but not now. Such a shame.

Giibo

iTrader: (19)

Sorry to hear that Wombat...at least you tried. Props to guys/gals that complete or at least attempt a swap. All the hard work and or money put into the project is worth the unique final product.

I'd like to do this to my forester one day (04 STi > 98 Forester): http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...light=sti+swap

similar deal: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulle...to-diary-9743/