budget really. I dont want to put $$$ in the RS. ill be doing that for the STI although i did some more looking around and $60 more for full Group-N why the hell not. and the fact that they are designed by STi. even better.

update:

still no luck with case bolts in water jacket

 

Hmm... Is it because they are corroded or because they are in there really good?

What have you tried so far on the bolts?

I used my 1/2 HF breaker bar (the big one) and had no problem at all. But that was on a motor with only 114k on it. I am sure they would break loose if you had something similar with a cheater bar over it.

 

YOOOOOUUUU again....hahah JK i do appreciate all the help!

I tried taking a 1/2 breaker bar and extention with 12pt at the end. the extension stapped at the socket. i also took a couple quick light taps with the air compressor but didint want to do much more with the risk of damaging the aluminum case.

Oh, and I have 260,000 miles on the block....

 

Sounds like all you need is a stronger extension. I wouldnt be trying too much with the air tools either.

 

ya. took it to the machine shop that i dropped my heads and flywheel at. they couldnt get them to move either.....WTF do I do? im seriously on the verge of tossing this block....if a 17" 1/2 breaker bar dont do it....

 

Nothing else you can do besides get a stronger extension and put a huge cheater bar on it. 17" breaker bar with a 3 foot cheater pipe should do the trick.

I will buy the block off of you if you decide to toss it.

 

im going to try and and find a 1/2 drive 12pt 12mm socket that can fit down there. after that and a long *** bar i should be able to break them free. I also gave the bolts some shock (placed an extension about 1/4-1/2 inch away from bolt head and gave a couple light taps on the extension with a small rubber mallet. hopefully that breaks any seal on the threads and makes it a little easier. THe only 12pt 12mm socket i can fit down there is the smaller drive

Rebuild Update:

Finally was able to remove oil separator plate and remove the last two pistons. I noticed some scuffing in the #1 cyclinder wall where piston skirt would ride. Ill know more when i have the block split and bearings in hand.

Posting pics tonight

 

Dead blow mallet is like $2 at Harbor Freight. You should have one. Or two.

 

yep. i got a big and small one. what i need is a 10foot breaker bar. LOL. the only drive i can get down ther was 3/8 and i snapped that extension

 

update: broke the outer 12pt 12mm case bolts free. I cant ffind a 1/2 drive thin enough to fit in my jackets and a 3/8 will just snap again with a longer breaker bar.....ideas?

 

Still stuck?

Use a 3/8 extension that is for an impact wrench.... one designed to handle huge torque.

 

Nope. Split block on saturday : banana : ill ppst some pics and an update within thw hour

 

FINALLY split the block this past Saturday. spent about 20mins each bolt shocking them every angle i could. used a 25" 1/2 drive breaker bar to adapter to 3/8 extension to 3/8 12mm 12pt. They creaked and gave way!

take a look at the pics! valve stem leak shows bearing damage. taht with the combination of bearings with 255,000 miles on them!




^Heads back from sshop





^made myself a little engine assembly station not perfect but the amount of crap the tree above donates....no good.



^Bolt mapping

SPLIT!

 

^Mains and rear oil seal



^#1 Rod bearing!



^MB1-RB3

^RB2-MB5

^bearing material transfer on MB 5

 

Any one bump up HG thickness when they ref surface head and block for the first time?