help with ej25 rebuild?
02-27-2012, 10:59 PM
#1
help with ej25 rebuild?
Hey iclubbers. I am nearing 206k on the odo, going through a quart of oil in a week, p1507 and p0420, exhaust pipe turning black. All signs of valve seals, rings, etc going bad. I am thinking of buying a rebuild kit. I've been doing research and reading the factory manual on disassembly of the boxer. I am very mechanically inclined and would be my first time rebuilding a motor. I am looking to see if anyone on here has rebuilt this same motor and if they has success with doing so. I have some tools, but not all the ones needed to do this in my ideal time frame of one weekend. I would pay for time helping. I plan to do this around the end of march. Pm if anyone would be able to help out. Thanks in advance.
03-02-2012, 12:18 PM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: bay area
Posts: 1
Car Info: 05 forester
Hey iclubbers. I am nearing 206k on the odo, going through a quart of oil in a week, p1507 and p0420, exhaust pipe turning black. All signs of valve seals, rings, etc going bad. I am thinking of buying a rebuild kit. I've been doing research and reading the factory manual on disassembly of the boxer. I am very mechanically inclined and would be my first time rebuilding a motor. I am looking to see if anyone on here has rebuilt this same motor and if they has success with doing so. I have some tools, but not all the ones needed to do this in my ideal time frame of one weekend. I would pay for time helping. I plan to do this around the end of march. Pm if anyone would be able to help out. Thanks in advance.
03-02-2012, 12:54 PM
#3
If I had all the machine work done, every thing measured, all the new parts needed and all the tools ready to go, I would not be able to put an engine together in a weekend and install it. I am no expert but, i have built quite a few engines ( Subaru an others). You might want to give yourself a little more time. Don't buy any no name" rebuild " kits from ebay.
03-02-2012, 01:12 PM
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: hater ville watson
Posts: 2,065
Car Info: 2000 2 door RS/ daily driver vtech
i have all torque specs for the engine and a diagram, dont have a scanner but your more than welcome to come get a copie, by the way, assemble the block first and the pistons go in at the end, tricky block if your not familiar with it
03-02-2012, 04:56 PM
#5
Cool cool thanks. Ya I've been reading up on the rebuild. And it caught my attention the u need to remove wrist pins then piston before splitting block. And like you said, assemble block then install pistons, wrist pin, and c clip. I'm guessing it must be done this way because its h4 and the crankshaft along with pistons would not be supported by block.
04-29-2012, 12:13 AM
#7
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 226
Car Info: 2002 Impreza Outback Sport
I have got the factory manual on DVD, and with school out now, i could possibly lend a hand, gotta rebuild mine sooner or later, haven't tore it apart to figure out if its piston slap or rod knock, guessing slap as it gets quieter as car warms up. If u need the manual, i can let you borrow it for the rebuild.
04-29-2012, 10:19 AM
#8
I have got the factory manual on DVD, and with school out now, i could possibly lend a hand, gotta rebuild mine sooner or later, haven't tore it apart to figure out if its piston slap or rod knock, guessing slap as it gets quieter as car warms up. If u need the manual, i can let you borrow it for the rebuild.
03-20-2013, 09:22 AM
#11
Just shy of a year bump! lol
My headgaskets blew and ill be replacing them and rebuilding the heads within the next two weeks. I have searched it a lot and couldnt find an answer. But, my question is: having 250k miles on my engine, should i go ahead and rebuild the entire longblock? Im aware that it is highly recommended to rebuild the short block when you are rebuilding the heads due to higher CRs after the head rebuild. This will cause much faster wear and tear on the original crankshaft and bearings. Buuuuuut, i had a random thought: Do our engines put less stress on the crankshaft? Compared to V-tpye and I-type engines. On I and V-tpyes, all 4-8 pistons are pushing down on the crankshaft and bearings in one direction. What about H-types though? Am i a complete idiot for thinking that ours would carry less stress due to the setup? the way i think of it, our crankshafts get almost a netted 0 force on the crankshaft. Our pistons push against eachother so to speak instead of all of them pushing against the crankshaft.
SOO, any thoughts or ideas as to what i should do? Rebuild just heads? or entire longblock at 250k miles. Also, keep in mind, this car will not be pushed as hard anymore. One being, I have started my RSTI swap. and second, ill be buying a new car shortly and will keep the RS for the weekends.
My headgaskets blew and ill be replacing them and rebuilding the heads within the next two weeks. I have searched it a lot and couldnt find an answer. But, my question is: having 250k miles on my engine, should i go ahead and rebuild the entire longblock? Im aware that it is highly recommended to rebuild the short block when you are rebuilding the heads due to higher CRs after the head rebuild. This will cause much faster wear and tear on the original crankshaft and bearings. Buuuuuut, i had a random thought: Do our engines put less stress on the crankshaft? Compared to V-tpye and I-type engines. On I and V-tpyes, all 4-8 pistons are pushing down on the crankshaft and bearings in one direction. What about H-types though? Am i a complete idiot for thinking that ours would carry less stress due to the setup? the way i think of it, our crankshafts get almost a netted 0 force on the crankshaft. Our pistons push against eachother so to speak instead of all of them pushing against the crankshaft.
SOO, any thoughts or ideas as to what i should do? Rebuild just heads? or entire longblock at 250k miles. Also, keep in mind, this car will not be pushed as hard anymore. One being, I have started my RSTI swap. and second, ill be buying a new car shortly and will keep the RS for the weekends.
04-05-2013, 11:25 AM
#15
Bump:
CUrrent plan:
Pull engine, split block and take engine case, crankshaft, and heads to a machine shop. im going to order new: reseal kit, water pump, oil pump, thermostat, main/rod bearing/ piston rings. im going to have the shop rebuild the head with the valve stem seals taht i should be getting in the mail soon. i was going to ask the shop to only take down measurements and tolerances on the block. once i know what size bearings (and possible piston, rod, and pins) ill need, im going to order them and assemble the block myself at my place.
Has anyone gone somewhat this route (having shop clean and measure)? and if so, how much can i expect for the clean and measuring of the short block? i was already quote 400-500 to rebuild/valve job the heads.
thanks again in advance for all the help. every day i miss the scoob more and more
CUrrent plan:
Pull engine, split block and take engine case, crankshaft, and heads to a machine shop. im going to order new: reseal kit, water pump, oil pump, thermostat, main/rod bearing/ piston rings. im going to have the shop rebuild the head with the valve stem seals taht i should be getting in the mail soon. i was going to ask the shop to only take down measurements and tolerances on the block. once i know what size bearings (and possible piston, rod, and pins) ill need, im going to order them and assemble the block myself at my place.
Has anyone gone somewhat this route (having shop clean and measure)? and if so, how much can i expect for the clean and measuring of the short block? i was already quote 400-500 to rebuild/valve job the heads.
thanks again in advance for all the help. every day i miss the scoob more and more