help with ej25 rebuild?
04-22-2013, 11:22 AM
#32
thanks bud. and all by myself 
feel even better. lol. im just stuck at wrist pins. i knew id prob have a prob removing them with out some form of special tool. im going to research wht that tool is and see if i cant make one of my own. really, i need a long rod with a hook or two at the end to go through pin and catch the back side so i can pull it out. i tried with some picks but not strong enough.
feel even better. lol. im just stuck at wrist pins. i knew id prob have a prob removing them with out some form of special tool. im going to research wht that tool is and see if i cant make one of my own. really, i need a long rod with a hook or two at the end to go through pin and catch the back side so i can pull it out. i tried with some picks but not strong enough.
04-22-2013, 12:34 PM
#33
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 491
Car Info: 04 WRX Wagon, 06 Forester XT, 99 Legacy Sedan
No need for a special tool.
Get a really long screwdriver or 1/4 extension.
Go through the wrist pin hole on the OPPOSITE side of the block from the wrist pin that is lined up.
You will be able to look through the hole on the far side and put your screwdriver/extension through to the far wrist pin (the one that is lined up with the hole on the other side) and tap it OUT of the block.
This wasnt the video I was looking for to show you but it was the first one that came up haha.
Get a really long screwdriver or 1/4 extension.
Go through the wrist pin hole on the OPPOSITE side of the block from the wrist pin that is lined up.
You will be able to look through the hole on the far side and put your screwdriver/extension through to the far wrist pin (the one that is lined up with the hole on the other side) and tap it OUT of the block.
This wasnt the video I was looking for to show you but it was the first one that came up haha.
Last edited by Harry Maneuvers; 04-22-2013 at 12:37 PM.
04-22-2013, 12:44 PM
#34
No need for a special tool.
Get a really long screwdriver or 1/4 extension.
Go through the wrist pin hole on the OPPOSITE side of the block from the wrist pin that is lined up.
You will be able to look through the hole on the far side and put your screwdriver/extension through to the far wrist pin (the one that is lined up with the hole on the other side) and tap it OUT of the block.
This wasnt the video I was looking for to show you but it was the first one that came up haha.
Punching out wrist ping - YouTube
Get a really long screwdriver or 1/4 extension.
Go through the wrist pin hole on the OPPOSITE side of the block from the wrist pin that is lined up.
You will be able to look through the hole on the far side and put your screwdriver/extension through to the far wrist pin (the one that is lined up with the hole on the other side) and tap it OUT of the block.
This wasnt the video I was looking for to show you but it was the first one that came up haha.
Punching out wrist ping - YouTube
04-22-2013, 01:25 PM
#35
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iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 491
Car Info: 04 WRX Wagon, 06 Forester XT, 99 Legacy Sedan
Went down that road man... good luck. You are going to need more than just your body weight... you will need like a slide hammer (also tried that but the HF one doesnt fit through the wrist pin center hole). Or some other way of striking that bent screwdriver to get them out.
I tried it both with a battery tie down and a screwdriver... I wasnt able to get anything that was strong enough at that thin of clearances.
What is your concern with doing the push method? Once you get the pin half way out you just take it out with your hands. Or if you are concerned tape a sock or glove over the hole to catch the wrist pin in if it does come out.
I tried it both with a battery tie down and a screwdriver... I wasnt able to get anything that was strong enough at that thin of clearances.
What is your concern with doing the push method? Once you get the pin half way out you just take it out with your hands. Or if you are concerned tape a sock or glove over the hole to catch the wrist pin in if it does come out.
04-22-2013, 01:43 PM
#36
Went down that road man... good luck. You are going to need more than just your body weight... you will need like a slide hammer (also tried that but the HF one doesnt fit through the wrist pin center hole). Or some other way of striking that bent screwdriver to get them out.
I tried it both with a battery tie down and a screwdriver... I wasnt able to get anything that was strong enough at that thin of clearances.
What is your concern with doing the push method? Once you get the pin half way out you just take it out with your hands. Or if you are concerned tape a sock or glove over the hole to catch the wrist pin in if it does come out.
I tried it both with a battery tie down and a screwdriver... I wasnt able to get anything that was strong enough at that thin of clearances.
What is your concern with doing the push method? Once you get the pin half way out you just take it out with your hands. Or if you are concerned tape a sock or glove over the hole to catch the wrist pin in if it does come out.
04-23-2013, 10:10 AM
#37
good morning i club!
so today i plan to remove pistons and split block. Heads are in my trunk ready for machine shop. Now, i was planning on going a bit......stiffer route.
Upgrade:
engine mounts
tranny mounts
pitch stop
steering rack
control arm both F/R bushings (with ALK off set and bump steer kit)
+ shift kit?
now with the scoob my project car, im looking for more of that stiff "racecar" feel.
my question is:
what have people run and how did they like them?
also, are mounts compatible between 02-07 RS/WRX/STI? i dont see why they wouldnt be?
TIA!
so today i plan to remove pistons and split block. Heads are in my trunk ready for machine shop. Now, i was planning on going a bit......stiffer route.
Upgrade:
engine mounts
tranny mounts
pitch stop
steering rack
control arm both F/R bushings (with ALK off set and bump steer kit)
+ shift kit?
now with the scoob my project car, im looking for more of that stiff "racecar" feel.
my question is:
what have people run and how did they like them?
also, are mounts compatible between 02-07 RS/WRX/STI? i dont see why they wouldnt be?
TIA!
04-23-2013, 11:52 AM
#38
so....was browsing through threads and answered my question regarding the mounts. seems like they are all compatible. suggestions on brand/supplier?
another question: is it recommended to go to thicker HGs if i resurface? itd be t he first resurface on these heads and dont plan on removing much if any material off heads
another question: is it recommended to go to thicker HGs if i resurface? itd be t he first resurface on these heads and dont plan on removing much if any material off heads
04-23-2013, 03:24 PM
#39
Sorry bout the constant bump guys. just adding to it as i see fit
Shopping spree!
Engine parts:
Oil Pump
Water Pump
Master gasket set
Timing belt
idlers/tensioner
thermostat
main/rod bearings
main seals
head valve job
rad cap
throwout/pilot bearings
new hoses throughout
non engine upgrades:
Grouppe-n Engine/tranny/pitchstop
Bump Steer whiteline
Steering rack bushings whiteline
prothane master set (control arms and SBs)
ALK whiteline
Positive shift kit whiteline
another 150k+ of fun,reliable, spirited driving? i think YES!
Shopping spree!
Engine parts:
Oil Pump
Water Pump
Master gasket set
Timing belt
idlers/tensioner
thermostat
main/rod bearings
main seals
head valve job
rad cap
throwout/pilot bearings
new hoses throughout
non engine upgrades:
Grouppe-n Engine/tranny/pitchstop
Bump Steer whiteline
Steering rack bushings whiteline
prothane master set (control arms and SBs)
ALK whiteline
Positive shift kit whiteline
another 150k+ of fun,reliable, spirited driving? i think YES!
04-24-2013, 12:46 PM
#40
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 491
Car Info: 04 WRX Wagon, 06 Forester XT, 99 Legacy Sedan
You are going to want to add the updated oil separator plate as I am pretty sure yours is the old style that is prone to leaking.
You also might want to have all 4 injectors cleaned and overhauled. It is normally like $15-$20 per injector but is well worth it. I cant speak highly enough for Doctor Injector in Rancho Cordova... they do great work.
I would also replace the oil cooler o-ring while you are at it... dont think that will come with the master gasket set but maybe it does.
Piston rings... I recommend Hastings over NPR.
Take a look at your headbolts. Some of mine had stretched threads. Take all of them and try to lay one on top of another with the head bolts pointing opposite directions and the threads of the two bolts are lined up.
I noticed that on a few bolts that the threads would start off perfectly matched but as you would look further down the bolt you would notice a slightly larger and larger gap. So that the threads at the end of the bolt were not perfectly fitting together like the threads at the opposite end.
APR are overkill considering your power goals. Fel-pro bolts are junk and more expensive than OEM bolts so I ended up just getting all new OEM head bolts.
Oh yea, and you are going to want to replace all of the engine block bolt washers that are inside of the waterjacket. They have a special rubber inside diameter and need to be replaced each time.
There are also two bolts at the end of each head cam cap that also have these same washers but smaller.
You also might want to have all 4 injectors cleaned and overhauled. It is normally like $15-$20 per injector but is well worth it. I cant speak highly enough for Doctor Injector in Rancho Cordova... they do great work.
I would also replace the oil cooler o-ring while you are at it... dont think that will come with the master gasket set but maybe it does.
Piston rings... I recommend Hastings over NPR.
Take a look at your headbolts. Some of mine had stretched threads. Take all of them and try to lay one on top of another with the head bolts pointing opposite directions and the threads of the two bolts are lined up.
I noticed that on a few bolts that the threads would start off perfectly matched but as you would look further down the bolt you would notice a slightly larger and larger gap. So that the threads at the end of the bolt were not perfectly fitting together like the threads at the opposite end.
APR are overkill considering your power goals. Fel-pro bolts are junk and more expensive than OEM bolts so I ended up just getting all new OEM head bolts.
Oh yea, and you are going to want to replace all of the engine block bolt washers that are inside of the waterjacket. They have a special rubber inside diameter and need to be replaced each time.
There are also two bolts at the end of each head cam cap that also have these same washers but smaller.
04-24-2013, 01:13 PM
#41
You are going to want to add the updated oil separator plate as I am pretty sure yours is the old style that is prone to leaking.
You also might want to have all 4 injectors cleaned and overhauled. It is normally like $15-$20 per injector but is well worth it. I cant speak highly enough for Doctor Injector in Rancho Cordova... they do great work.
I would also replace the oil cooler o-ring while you are at it... dont think that will come with the master gasket set but maybe it does.
Piston rings... I recommend Hastings over NPR.
Take a look at your headbolts. Some of mine had stretched threads. Take all of them and try to lay one on top of another with the head bolts pointing opposite directions and the threads of the two bolts are lined up.
I noticed that on a few bolts that the threads would start off perfectly matched but as you would look further down the bolt you would notice a slightly larger and larger gap. So that the threads at the end of the bolt were not perfectly fitting together like the threads at the opposite end.
APR are overkill considering your power goals. Fel-pro bolts are junk and more expensive than OEM bolts so I ended up just getting all new OEM head bolts.
Oh yea, and you are going to want to replace all of the engine block bolt washers that are inside of the waterjacket. They have a special rubber inside diameter and need to be replaced each time.
There are also two bolts at the end of each head cam cap that also have these same washers but smaller.
You also might want to have all 4 injectors cleaned and overhauled. It is normally like $15-$20 per injector but is well worth it. I cant speak highly enough for Doctor Injector in Rancho Cordova... they do great work.
I would also replace the oil cooler o-ring while you are at it... dont think that will come with the master gasket set but maybe it does.
Piston rings... I recommend Hastings over NPR.
Take a look at your headbolts. Some of mine had stretched threads. Take all of them and try to lay one on top of another with the head bolts pointing opposite directions and the threads of the two bolts are lined up.
I noticed that on a few bolts that the threads would start off perfectly matched but as you would look further down the bolt you would notice a slightly larger and larger gap. So that the threads at the end of the bolt were not perfectly fitting together like the threads at the opposite end.
APR are overkill considering your power goals. Fel-pro bolts are junk and more expensive than OEM bolts so I ended up just getting all new OEM head bolts.
Oh yea, and you are going to want to replace all of the engine block bolt washers that are inside of the waterjacket. They have a special rubber inside diameter and need to be replaced each time.
There are also two bolts at the end of each head cam cap that also have these same washers but smaller.
04-24-2013, 03:22 PM
#42
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 491
Car Info: 04 WRX Wagon, 06 Forester XT, 99 Legacy Sedan
Yes you have an oil cooler. It should be what your oil filter spins up and seals against.
Like this:
It is the round piece on the bottom, passenger side of the block. It has one of the coolant hoses disconnected and you can see the orange o-ring at the top where it sits against the block (the filter post is not tightened down on the picture).
FWIW, if you are looking for the absolute best deal in online OEM parts... Gillman Subaru in TX has a 10% price BEAT guarantee.
Logan Johns in their parts department has been a HUGE help and I have nothing but great things to say about him and Gillman.
Use coupon code: PLUS5 or NASIOC for an additional 5% off your entire shipped cost.
Like this:
It is the round piece on the bottom, passenger side of the block. It has one of the coolant hoses disconnected and you can see the orange o-ring at the top where it sits against the block (the filter post is not tightened down on the picture).
FWIW, if you are looking for the absolute best deal in online OEM parts... Gillman Subaru in TX has a 10% price BEAT guarantee.
Logan Johns in their parts department has been a HUGE help and I have nothing but great things to say about him and Gillman.
Use coupon code: PLUS5 or NASIOC for an additional 5% off your entire shipped cost.
04-24-2013, 03:27 PM
#43
Yes you have an oil cooler. It should be what your oil filter spins up and seals against.
Like this:
It is the round piece on the bottom, passenger side of the block. It has one of the coolant hoses disconnected and you can see the orange o-ring at the top where it sits against the block (the filter post is not tightened down on the picture).
FWIW, if you are looking for the absolute best deal in online OEM parts... Gillman Subaru in TX has a 10% price BEAT guarantee.
Logan Johns in their parts department has been a HUGE help and I have nothing but great things to say about him and Gillman.
Use coupon code: PLUS5 or NASIOC for an additional 5% off your entire shipped cost.
Like this:
It is the round piece on the bottom, passenger side of the block. It has one of the coolant hoses disconnected and you can see the orange o-ring at the top where it sits against the block (the filter post is not tightened down on the picture).
FWIW, if you are looking for the absolute best deal in online OEM parts... Gillman Subaru in TX has a 10% price BEAT guarantee.
Logan Johns in their parts department has been a HUGE help and I have nothing but great things to say about him and Gillman.
Use coupon code: PLUS5 or NASIOC for an additional 5% off your entire shipped cost.
Last edited by 02RS25; 04-24-2013 at 03:30 PM.
04-25-2013, 01:42 PM
#44
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Sacramento
Posts: 491
Car Info: 04 WRX Wagon, 06 Forester XT, 99 Legacy Sedan
Well now I am confused. I checked the FSM for a 2001 Legacy which is the EJ251 like I have but it doesnt show an oil cooler anywhere. I am wondering if my engine is maybe a little newer than I thought!
04-25-2013, 01:46 PM
#45
all good. i kinda figured the oil cooler was specific to either: year/aspiration/tranny (MT vs AT) i say tranny becaue there are certain parts the relate with eachother. such as AT sharing cooling from rad for both engine and tranny.
if anyone knows a definite answer to this, please chime in. i know i dont have an oil cooler so it "dont really matter" but in terms of education sake. what cars/models use the oil cooler?