What should be my next mod?
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An Exhaust System Consists of More than 1 Unit, for Example the Tein Turbo back Exhaust consists of a Down pipe, A Cat, a Mid Pipe and a Muffler. Your Link is talking about the whole Exhaust (3 or 4 Pipes and the Muffler Shown in the pic). You can Purchase the MUFFLER ONLY for $50.00 on E-Bay. I had said to get the TXS Turbo back System and Replace the TXS Muffler with the HKS but keep all of the other piping.
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally posted by Sevielle
I have a question about these. There are ads at ebay selling rear "STI strut bars" for around $60.
Are these the same as "sway bars"? Is the install reasonably straightforward? Are these reasonable investments if you'd like to breeze effortlessly through corners on the way to the mountains but you're not into racing?
I have a question about these. There are ads at ebay selling rear "STI strut bars" for around $60.
Are these the same as "sway bars"? Is the install reasonably straightforward? Are these reasonable investments if you'd like to breeze effortlessly through corners on the way to the mountains but you're not into racing?
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Thanks. OK, so not that anyone advised this exactly, but I'm buyin the GReddy Evolution catback muffler b/c it adds decent amounts of power without being very noisy (~90 dB, see http://www.turbomagazine.com/tech/0212tur_exhaust/). Selling it at MVPmotorsports for $553 with shipping included.
K, I think on the short list, excluding the rear swaybar (anyone recommend a product, now that the moderator has set my sorry butt straight), I've somewhat impulsively bought the tires/wheels and a catback muffler, I'm inclined next to get the Turboback Stealth from TurboXS (ie exhaust without the muffler). Does that make sense or am I confused about this and buying something that I've (partially) already bought? And if what I'm suggesting does make sense, at what point should I get the ECU reflashed by Cobb?
K, I think on the short list, excluding the rear swaybar (anyone recommend a product, now that the moderator has set my sorry butt straight), I've somewhat impulsively bought the tires/wheels and a catback muffler, I'm inclined next to get the Turboback Stealth from TurboXS (ie exhaust without the muffler). Does that make sense or am I confused about this and buying something that I've (partially) already bought? And if what I'm suggesting does make sense, at what point should I get the ECU reflashed by Cobb?
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I got the invidia downpipe and am VERY impressed with the quality and the beauty. Nice polished stainless. It was rated one of the best. Another good one is the Perrin downpipe. http://www.perrinperformance.com/ The turbo back and up pipe should do a lot for you. I wouldn't do to much more than that without upgradng the ecu (like bumping up the boost)... or else you can cause the engine to go lean blow the (@$%& out of it.
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally posted by scoobin
I got the invidia downpipe and am VERY impressed with the quality and the beauty. Nice polished stainless. It was rated one of the best. Another good one is the Perrin downpipe. http://www.perrinperformance.com/ The turbo back and up pipe should do a lot for you. I wouldn't do to much more than that without upgradng the ecu (like bumping up the boost)... or else you can cause the engine to go lean blow the (@$%& out of it.
I got the invidia downpipe and am VERY impressed with the quality and the beauty. Nice polished stainless. It was rated one of the best. Another good one is the Perrin downpipe. http://www.perrinperformance.com/ The turbo back and up pipe should do a lot for you. I wouldn't do to much more than that without upgradng the ecu (like bumping up the boost)... or else you can cause the engine to go lean blow the (@$%& out of it.
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Originally posted by scoobin
I got the invidia downpipe and am VERY impressed w... I wouldn't do to much more than that without upgradng the ecu (like bumping up the boost)... or else you can cause the engine to go lean blow the (@$%& out of it.
I got the invidia downpipe and am VERY impressed w... I wouldn't do to much more than that without upgradng the ecu (like bumping up the boost)... or else you can cause the engine to go lean blow the (@$%& out of it.
Also, any suggestions for a vendor/manufacturer for the rear swaybar?
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Originally posted by Sevielle
Good tip, the Invidia is a lot cheaper than the TXS Stealth package, and the pix and your review make it sound stellar. But what about your last comment? Given that I have (1) catless up-pipe and am gonna get (2) turboback exhaust from GReddy should I get the ECU reflashed before installing a catless downpipe? Or do you think I can wait until the downpipe is in before reflashing?
Also, any suggestions for a vendor/manufacturer for the rear swaybar?
Good tip, the Invidia is a lot cheaper than the TXS Stealth package, and the pix and your review make it sound stellar. But what about your last comment? Given that I have (1) catless up-pipe and am gonna get (2) turboback exhaust from GReddy should I get the ECU reflashed before installing a catless downpipe? Or do you think I can wait until the downpipe is in before reflashing?
Also, any suggestions for a vendor/manufacturer for the rear swaybar?
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally posted by scoobin
Go ahead and do all the exhaust mods, you shouldn't have any trouble. If you mess with the ECU and the subaru dealer finds out it will automaticly void your warranty. It looks like the Cobb is a reformatting of the stock ECU so if you have a backup go for it. An electronic boost controller might help you out a lot by keeping the boost from jumping all over the place (I would recomend the blitz SBC over all others) but be careful... Don't go above the stock 15 lbs of boost. I've heard stories of people blowing up their motor while running their car thru fourth because that is when you are pulling the most boost for the longest period. anyting more than that definatly upgrade the ECU. But if you are going to spend the money, The Link will be the best bet if you can find a tuner to help you dial it in. This way you can upgrade the turbo and have someone local dial it in.... oops, you blew it up??? The Subaru dealer will be more likely to look the other way if you have the stock ECU back in place. As for a sway bar... Perrin is making some nicely engineered suspension parts.
Go ahead and do all the exhaust mods, you shouldn't have any trouble. If you mess with the ECU and the subaru dealer finds out it will automaticly void your warranty. It looks like the Cobb is a reformatting of the stock ECU so if you have a backup go for it. An electronic boost controller might help you out a lot by keeping the boost from jumping all over the place (I would recomend the blitz SBC over all others) but be careful... Don't go above the stock 15 lbs of boost. I've heard stories of people blowing up their motor while running their car thru fourth because that is when you are pulling the most boost for the longest period. anyting more than that definatly upgrade the ECU. But if you are going to spend the money, The Link will be the best bet if you can find a tuner to help you dial it in. This way you can upgrade the turbo and have someone local dial it in.... oops, you blew it up??? The Subaru dealer will be more likely to look the other way if you have the stock ECU back in place. As for a sway bar... Perrin is making some nicely engineered suspension parts.
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Originally posted by BAN SUVS
Your technical points are correct, but a word of advice- once you start making real power with engine management, forget about your warranty. It's gone. If you want 300+ factory backed horses, get a Camaro.
Your technical points are correct, but a word of advice- once you start making real power with engine management, forget about your warranty. It's gone. If you want 300+ factory backed horses, get a Camaro.
Lemme try to get this straight. If I go to Cobb and talk them into a Stage 2 (91) reflash given only exhaust mods (not counting swaybars, wheels and other non-power-related mods), and then my car busts apart, at least remotely possibly related to overambitious engine management, SoA will automatically declare the warranty null & void because of the ECU adjustments?
Maybe this is a better way to ask what I need to know. Is there likely to be a difference between going with a pre-programmed "Stage X" power management scheme from a respected vendor vs. custom-tuning, either in terms of likely real-world safety from incidents or safety as perceived by SoA's warranty dept? My inclination is to be conservative- I most likely will never be micro-managing my ECU on the fly, but I could see a standardized reflash of the ECU up to Stage 2 from Cobb or others.
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From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Originally posted by Sevielle
Ouch
Lemme try to get this straight. If I go to Cobb and talk them into a Stage 2 (91) reflash given only exhaust mods (not counting swaybars, wheels and other non-power-related mods), and then my car busts apart, at least remotely possibly related to overambitious engine management, SoA will automatically declare the warranty null & void because of the ECU adjustments?
Maybe this is a better way to ask what I need to know. Is there likely to be a difference between going with a pre-programmed "Stage X" power management scheme from a respected vendor vs. custom-tuning, either in terms of likely real-world safety from incidents or safety as perceived by SoA's warranty dept? My inclination is to be conservative- I most likely will never be micro-managing my ECU on the fly, but I could see a standardized reflash of the ECU up to Stage 2 from Cobb or others.
Ouch
Lemme try to get this straight. If I go to Cobb and talk them into a Stage 2 (91) reflash given only exhaust mods (not counting swaybars, wheels and other non-power-related mods), and then my car busts apart, at least remotely possibly related to overambitious engine management, SoA will automatically declare the warranty null & void because of the ECU adjustments?
Maybe this is a better way to ask what I need to know. Is there likely to be a difference between going with a pre-programmed "Stage X" power management scheme from a respected vendor vs. custom-tuning, either in terms of likely real-world safety from incidents or safety as perceived by SoA's warranty dept? My inclination is to be conservative- I most likely will never be micro-managing my ECU on the fly, but I could see a standardized reflash of the ECU up to Stage 2 from Cobb or others.
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From: Wherever Sucks the Most
Car Info: 2003 WRX, 2008 Camry
I believe you should focus on suspension mods first (more mods if you're auto-xing or what have you) then brakes. (that's next on my to do list) because you need stopping power for the final set of mods.... and that's the engine.
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Originally posted by Sisqocqk
I believe you should focus on suspension mods first (more mods if you're auto-xing or what have you) then brakes. (that's next on my to do list) because you need stopping power for the final set of mods.... and that's the engine.
I believe you should focus on suspension mods first (more mods if you're auto-xing or what have you) then brakes. (that's next on my to do list) because you need stopping power for the final set of mods.... and that's the engine.
So, I think I'm doing enough for suspension, with new wheels/tires and front/rear swaybars + links, not so?
Remember I'm just lookin for a fast street vehicle -not racing it- just like high performance so that it is a lot harder for weasely drivers to prevent me from gettin on to the freeway onramp in the morning.
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Originally posted by BAN SUVS
Struts and springs would still be a good idea, but your setups is pretty good so far.
Struts and springs would still be a good idea, but your setups is pretty good so far.
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