proper way for bleeding braking system
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 173
Car Info: 02 wrx wagon
proper way for bleeding braking system
Hi, i am changing rotors and pads on my 02 wrx.. in the mean time i want to bleed/flush the whole breaking system and fill with motul brake fluid.
Can anyone give me a heads up on this procedure.
thanks
Can anyone give me a heads up on this procedure.
thanks
#2
Here ya go Danny,
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...ke+fluid+flush
Make sure to have an extra hand...
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...ke+fluid+flush
Make sure to have an extra hand...
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 173
Car Info: 02 wrx wagon
hum
Mitch.. still don't quite get how to flush the system, i have read the post, but it mainly talks about the procedure on how to bleed.. but complete flush.. how do u perform this task? thanks
#4
Well stock fluid is usually yellow. If yougot someATE Suber blue, you couldjust keep 'bleeding' till it comes out blue.
Other then that, just to be safe, you can use the whole bottle.
Other then that, just to be safe, you can use the whole bottle.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: SoCal
Posts: 173
Car Info: 02 wrx wagon
mitch
so basically fill up the reservour with new fluid.. and following the bleeding procedure.. keep pumping the pedal until the new color brake fluid start to flow in and then bleed the brake, then close bleed valve to seal? and in the mean time, continue to refill reservour? my question is, if i keep filling the reservour, would'nt i be mixing the old brake fluid along with the newly added one? just wondering!
do this procedure for all the other 3 brake caliper correct? i just want to make sure that i get a complete flush..
and also.. how in the world do u take out the rear rotor? its not as easy as knocking it out with a millet for the front rotor.. after i remove the complete caliper for the rear, i was stuck.. no matter how i pound, the rear rotor just would not come out..
do this procedure for all the other 3 brake caliper correct? i just want to make sure that i get a complete flush..
and also.. how in the world do u take out the rear rotor? its not as easy as knocking it out with a millet for the front rotor.. after i remove the complete caliper for the rear, i was stuck.. no matter how i pound, the rear rotor just would not come out..
#6
Guest
Posts: n/a
Re: mitch
Originally posted by gqzboy
so basically fill up the reservour with new fluid.. and following the bleeding procedure.. keep pumping the pedal until the new color brake fluid start to flow in and then bleed the brake, then close bleed valve to seal? and in the mean time, continue to refill reservour? my question is, if i keep filling the reservour, would'nt i be mixing the old brake fluid along with the newly added one? just wondering!
so basically fill up the reservour with new fluid.. and following the bleeding procedure.. keep pumping the pedal until the new color brake fluid start to flow in and then bleed the brake, then close bleed valve to seal? and in the mean time, continue to refill reservour? my question is, if i keep filling the reservour, would'nt i be mixing the old brake fluid along with the newly added one? just wondering!
There will be mixing of fluids, but this is no different than changing your oil and tranny fluid. There's always some fluid that remains behind in the nooks and crannies and, as long as you change the fluid regularly, it's not enough to matter.
do this procedure for all the other 3 brake caliper correct? i just want to make sure that i get a complete flush..
Although the article doesn't mention it, there is some timing involved in the bleeding process that helps get more air out. If you simply open the bleed screw and keep pumping the pedel, you may not knock loose all the air bubbles that are clinging to inside surfaces. (Visualize a glass of freshly poured ginger ale!) You need to JOLT that fluid to knock loose those pesky air bubbles. The correct procedure is to have your assistant push and hold the brake pedal using firm pressure. Then, you quickly open the bleed screw and the fluid will shoot out and into the plastic tube and catch bottle. Close the bleed screw BEFORE your assistant's foot reaches the floor. Then tell him to "RELEASE" and then tell him to "PUSH" again. And then repeat the process. Rather than slowly pumping the fluid out and leaving some air bubbles behind, you will be jolting the fluid and knocking loose air bubbles.
It also helps to use a dead blow hammer (soft faced) to tap on the calipers a few times before bleeding them. This also helps knock loose air bubbles.
and also.. how in the world do u take out the rear rotor? its not as easy as knocking it out with a millet for the front rotor.. after i remove the complete caliper for the rear, i was stuck.. no matter how i pound, the rear rotor just would not come out..
Hope this helps!
#8
Guest
Posts: n/a
Originally posted by darkspeed
I have a dumb quation. how many bottles do I need to flush the whole brake system? let's say motul fluid size, thanks
I have a dumb quation. how many bottles do I need to flush the whole brake system? let's say motul fluid size, thanks
The brakes can be bled with 1/2 liter of fluid if you are an expert and use no more than is needed. However, if you find that there is some air in the lines or if you are a novice, you can easily end up going through a liter or even two. I would have two liters on hand it it's your first time.
The Motul 600 comes in 1/2 liter plastic bottles. That would mean you need four of them. ATE TYP 200 and ATE Super Blue Racing come in one liter metal cans.
#10
Guest
Posts: n/a
The rotors won't come off because of the brake drum e-brake - the shoes of the brake wear a small groove in the inside of the rotor and keep a hold on it.
From the back of the rotor/hub you will see an eliptical rubber plug. Remove that and you have access to a small gear with its axis running front to back. You can turn that gear with a flat head screwdriver. I think you push on the bottom to rotate it in the direction that retracts the brake shoes. Remember how many turns on the gear you made and after reinstalling the rotor reset the gear. This gear is used for adjusting the pull on the e-brake handle.
From the back of the rotor/hub you will see an eliptical rubber plug. Remove that and you have access to a small gear with its axis running front to back. You can turn that gear with a flat head screwdriver. I think you push on the bottom to rotate it in the direction that retracts the brake shoes. Remember how many turns on the gear you made and after reinstalling the rotor reset the gear. This gear is used for adjusting the pull on the e-brake handle.
#11
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Lawrence, Kansas
Posts: 1,644
Car Info: 19' Impreza Sport Manual / 99 Miata / 13' OB
I've updated the brake bleeding page. We had two different pages so I put them together and added pics of how to get the fluid out.
http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/sho...=6626#post6626
Peaty
#13
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Lawrence, Kansas
Posts: 1,644
Car Info: 19' Impreza Sport Manual / 99 Miata / 13' OB
I really don't know how nessesary it is to back off of the shoes. Keep in mind the shoes are strictly for the e-brake. Unless you drive around with the e-brake on or do massive amounts of e-brake turns I'm not sure how much of a groove you will be wearing in the inner drum when you use the e-brake and the car isn't ever moving.
#14
Guest
Posts: n/a
I'm not talking out of my a$$ here. My car only has 8000 miles and I rarely ever use the parking brake but there was a groove in it big enough to tear the lining off the brake shoe when I used the two bolts to get the rotor off.
Unless your car has a ton of miles on it and the rotor is corroded like mad there should be no reason other than the brake shoes grabbing it to prevent it from coming right off. It takes 10 seconds to get behind the hub and turn the gear - why not do it?
Unless your car has a ton of miles on it and the rotor is corroded like mad there should be no reason other than the brake shoes grabbing it to prevent it from coming right off. It takes 10 seconds to get behind the hub and turn the gear - why not do it?
#15
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Lawrence, Kansas
Posts: 1,644
Car Info: 19' Impreza Sport Manual / 99 Miata / 13' OB
I've got 65K on my car and have remove my rear drums 4 times now and havent' had any grooves. I did it today in fact, I was swaping calipers and rotors on my RS. 3 popped right off and one needed some coaxing. I've also changed the brakes on a number of other Subaru's and have not come across any ware gooves or ridges like I did when drum brakes were common. I'm not saying you haven't seen it but I don't think it's common. Maybe your e-brake was dragging or something. 8K miles w/ some ridges I'd say something is amiss with you cable system. Maybe because you rarely use it it got frozen or something I don't know. The only way it will wear is if the wheel turns while the brake is on. The force of the shoes on the drum alone won't make a ridge. Lots of times the hub center likes to get so tight they won't just pop off but need either the bolts or some coaxing with a BFH (used gingerly) I think it's more common for people to leave the e-brake on and try to get the rotors off than ridges
Your right it's not hard to do to back off on the shoes, anything is worth a try in my book.
Your right it's not hard to do to back off on the shoes, anything is worth a try in my book.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Irish_car_B0mb
Suspension, Handling, and Brakes
1
04-04-2012 02:26 PM
XenoWolf
Engine/Power - non turbo (All non turbo Imprezas)
2
05-02-2005 07:36 AM