thanks bud! i was hoping to have her done this weekend. but parts and labor for internals ended up being more than expected. trying to sell some stuff to pick to put it back together and pick up some mounts!

 

I have an extra set of OEM motor and tranny mounts if you want them... they are just laying in my garage. I can send you pics if you want... free + shipping

I will be dropping the motor in the legacy this evening although I will be waiting until tomorrow before I can try to start it due to a few last minute parts arriving tomorrow.

 

deff! send some pics!@

 

Doing the little things that make the big difference.

Cleaning bolts
Also water and oil pump old vs new

 

What are you using to clean the bolts and nuts? Wire wheel?

 

simple green, brake kleen, wire brush (alum app) from harbor, and TIME. LOL

 

update bump:

 

Wrap the wrist pin side of the connecting rod with paper towels or painters tape before you bolt the other half of the block together or else they will make tiny marks against the piston wall when you start flipping the block or turning the crank to install pistons.

I doubt these tiny marks are anything more than cosmetic but if you are **** about that sort of thing like me, you will want to wrap them.

 

deff. thanks! didnt think it was enough force to cause and damage, but always better safe than sorry. speaking of which, i may end up taking it apart again. machine shop bored and machined to oversize main/rods/ cyls. they said all was measured and clearances were checked. all i had to do was put it together. but now im getting mixed ideas. when oversized,despite what the shop says, imma say i should double check....maybe even triple

 

You going to try to measure with Plastigauge or do you an outside micrometer and a bore gauge?

I would hope you could trust the shop that did the work more than you would trust Plastiguage.

 

i have micrometeres and t gauges. but my micrometers only read to X.XXX in when service manual measures to X.XXXX in.

 

update: i decide to go plastigauge route.

but now i need ONE water pump bolt....lol. im going to try and have timing set by tonight, but i cant do that without a water pump bolt. stevens creek parts guy is an idiot and sent me to capitol only to be turned back because stvns crk failed to mention the ONE bolt capitol had was special order.

so, any one got one of them bolts in their bags of "random bolts" ???? lol.

#4. hypothetically, i can just go to auto store or ace and pick up a bolt mathcning pitch and diameter....but id rather use an OE bolt.

 

progress bump!


studying for my big test!






end gapping

oil seperator plate







longblock complete!






Still need to set timing, set valve lash, install accs, and clean injectors. then she'll be ready to drop back in!

 

called it a night at 2am after dialing in cyl #1 valve clearance

 

update bump! engine fully assembled, timing and valve lash dialed, pump primed, engine and all wires, hoses, attached. ready to go. NO CRANK!

symptoms: all accs and windows operate at normal speed. but when i turn key to "ON". all dash lights and everything go off. the car gives on good jolt then just buzzing noises from starter. back of started gets hot after trying to crank. i ran through countless stroke cycels to ensure no binding.

for now: going to test batt and clean cables some more. any thoughts?

some final pics in the meantime: