96 Legacy wagon 2.2 (80K miles, about 40 on last clutch) has had an upgraded clutch installed (refuse stock after multiple replacements). the throw out bearing, pressure plate and disc were replaced, but not the pilot bearing. now shifting into R is very tricky- will take several tries before linkage lines up for a quiet, but forceful and grind free shift. 1st is also a much harder shift than before. becuase of the R grind phenomenon, the gentleman (i have been calling him much worse) who installed it says the pilot bearing is worn, the gears are still spinning and this is why the grind. pilot bearing only has 40K as well. i think maybe the linkage isn't quite right?

note: the old clutch was worn and slipping, but the shifting was still fine. any ideas on what's up and how to remedy?

Aaron in Baltimore

 

IME the clutch throw (in/out) has as much to do with the transmission's ability to engage, e.g., into 1st or into reverse as the the linkage does. It's possible that the clutch slave to clutch throw-out arm is out of adjustment and you're not getting the clutch completely disengaged when you push in on the clutch pedal.

Questions
- Do you push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when you're trying to get it into 1st or reverse? If not, try pushing it all the way down and see if that changes anything.
- Do you sense that the transmission is still turning internally when you try to put it into gear from a stop (reverse) or slow roll (1st)? If so, then I'd check the adjustment above.

If pushing the clutch pedal down all the way to the floor doesn't change anything or if the answer to the 2nd question is yes, then the installer needs to adjust the clutch enagement/disengagement point at the slave cylinder.

Once you get the clutch adjusted this difficulty should go away. At this point, I'd look at the shift linkage adjustment. With ony 80K miles on it, I wouldn't think that the shifter bushings are shot but check that first. They should be relatively stiff, and free of oil and grease buildup. If they are easily compressed, then they're probably ready for replacement. You'll need to be under the car to check this out and you'd need someone to row slowly through the gears as you check the gate changes to see if/where anything might be hanging up in the shift linkage.

Unless the installer crushed the pilot bearing (which resides in the flywheel) when he re-installed the transmission, then this should be a non issue and again, IME, would not affect the shifting unless it were damaged. This would cause slight front wobble on the input shaft but I don't think enough to cause internal mis-alignment, especially on an 80K transmission.

I'd start with the first two things: the clutch adjustment and then the linkage adjustment before I'd ever think about the pilot bearing.

Br, Dale

 

My advice- steer clear of Clutch Masters. they said they had the right clutch, dillydallied on shipping for about 1 month and then sent the wrong clutch. (they may do okay for other models...) we went with --i'll have to get back to you-- i just can't remember this AM, but they sent a clutch w/ the wrong number and then told us it would still work, but the throw out bearing and alignment tool were wrong, so the installer had to scramble to get the bearing from dealer. if you are not dissatisfied w/ the OEM clutch, go ahead and replace. i went after market in an effort to get a more durable product. my lovely wife had chewed up number three in about 40K, the previous two were probably at least one defective, and one poorly adjusted and driven. yup, given the replacement nightmare i have had i would go OEM, even though it might not be as strong as a improved plate and disc.

 

Dale,
thanks for your response. No slave cylinder - this car has a mechanical clutch with cable adjustment. I do believe the clutch is getting fully engaged. it has had this problem from the moment clutch was installed.

when going into 1st it feels as if the synchros aren't lining up - it needs to persuaded to go in on most shifts. for reverse the transmission is clearly still spinning. we are talking big grind if i try to shift when it isn't lined up. some shifting between 3rd, 4th, 5th will usually make it possible to find R w/o a grind.

SO ... is there another adjustment point with a mecahnical/cable operated clutch that will mimic or do same as slave aadjustment? if not, i need to go to linkage for troubleshooting. i will say the report from below was that the coupling between shifter and linkage was worn, but replacement couldn't be found - (of course i was leaving for a trip the next day...). that just allows greater back and forth play in the shifter, but it shifted beautifully before remove/replace for clutch install. the question remains, ' does wear there suggest excess wear on the couplings deeper in the linkage?' love a mystery, would prefer to read not drive it.

if the pilot bearing were damaged, wouldn't i expect problems throughout the gearbox?
I appreciate your thoughts and advice.
Aaron