Oil change
#78
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Cupertino, California
Posts: 31
Car Info: 2006 Subaru WRX TR
What do you guys think about ENEOS oil? I have an oil change coming up soon (at 2400 miles now) and wanna get it done at 3,000 miles. Garage 1 auto in san jose did a complete head gasket job plus other things like spark plugs, water pump, oil pump, vacuum lines, etc. the list goes on, 2 or so months ago but they also did an oil change with ENEOS oil, my question is, has anyone ever used it? and seen any consumption problems or any sort of recall/bad reviews on them? looking at my dibstick it still seems fine on F but i just wanna see what other people have to say, i have plans on going back to them in a couple weeks when i get 3,000 for my next oil change unless otherwise. But they do great work nonetheless! I am just paranoid with the whole debates over different oils and whats good, etc..thanks in advance!!
#79
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Location: Santa Cruz, California
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Car Info: 2006 obp wrx limited sedan
What do you guys think about ENEOS oil? I have an oil change coming up soon (at 2400 miles now) and wanna get it done at 3,000 miles. Garage 1 auto in san jose did a complete head gasket job plus other things like spark plugs, water pump, oil pump, vacuum lines, etc. the list goes on, 2 or so months ago but they also did an oil change with ENEOS oil, my question is, has anyone ever used it? and seen any consumption problems or any sort of recall/bad reviews on them? looking at my dibstick it still seems fine on F but i just wanna see what other people have to say, i have plans on going back to them in a couple weeks when i get 3,000 for my next oil change unless otherwise. But they do great work nonetheless! I am just paranoid with the whole debates over different oils and whats good, etc..thanks in advance!!
Also did you supply the parts for the work being done?
Might want to find out what brands of stuff they replaced your parts with as anything less than oem on the timing components is asking for trouble sooner than later.
Stick with 5w30 factory subaru oil or pull the trigger on 5w40 rotella t6.
Wouldnt touch anything shops use for their house brands.
Im pretty sure i can blame my rangers self detonation due to burning oil from jiffy lubes quaker state. Took 1 month and 1k miles to burn all but 1 quart of oil in the engine and pistons siezed.
#80
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Hmmm usually shops buy the cheap stuff for more profit. Are you using a conventinal? Or are you just **** about your OCI.....a good synthetic would easily surpass 7k miles before needing a swap.
Also did you supply the parts for the work being done?
Might want to find out what brands of stuff they replaced your parts with as anything less than oem on the timing components is asking for trouble sooner than later.
Stick with 5w30 factory subaru oil or pull the trigger on 5w40 rotella t6.
Wouldnt touch anything shops use for their house brands.
Also did you supply the parts for the work being done?
Might want to find out what brands of stuff they replaced your parts with as anything less than oem on the timing components is asking for trouble sooner than later.
Stick with 5w30 factory subaru oil or pull the trigger on 5w40 rotella t6.
Wouldnt touch anything shops use for their house brands.
Subaru 5w30 is OK oil, certainly not suitable for 7k OCIs (it is NOT the same as what comes in your sump from the factory these days, that is good oil reportedly). Only testing can show that your particular engine/driving style/hair color can go for long OCIs on a certain oil.
#82
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ENEOS is not cheap oil... retails over $8/qt. and has a good rep, IIRC. But TBN and HTHS numbers of one oil I found are not the best, not the worst. So, do a UOA at 3k here and see where it stands. Check BITOG for others' comments.
Subaru 5w30 is OK oil, certainly not suitable for 7k OCIs (it is NOT the same as what comes in your sump from the factory these days, that is good oil reportedly). Only testing can show that your particular engine/driving style/hair color can go for long OCIs on a certain oil.
And the price doesnt mean its the best. My rp530 was $9 a quart and that stuff shears like mad.
A good uoa is the best tool as you mentioned.
I meant subaru oil in general is ok. Certainly better than some things people use.
#83
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
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ENEOS is not cheap oil... retails over $8/qt. and has a good rep, IIRC. But TBN and HTHS numbers of one oil I found are not the best, not the worst. So, do a UOA at 3k here and see where it stands. Check BITOG for others' comments.
Subaru 5w30 is OK oil, certainly not suitable for 7k OCIs (it is NOT the same as what comes in your sump from the factory these days, that is good oil reportedly). Only testing can show that your particular engine/driving style/hair color can go for long OCIs on a certain oil.
Subaru 5w30 is OK oil, certainly not suitable for 7k OCIs (it is NOT the same as what comes in your sump from the factory these days, that is good oil reportedly). Only testing can show that your particular engine/driving style/hair color can go for long OCIs on a certain oil.
#84
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Below 40 degrees and it sounds like it has a bit of trouble when it fires up. Always fires but doesnt sound as strong. Normal driving it feels great tho. Im around 1500 miles on a fresh t6 change. Havent checked the dip yet.
#85
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
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I could tell the difference all the time, regardless of ambient temp at start up that the 40W had a little more hesitation. At temp it felt relatively normal and actually did not burn it off during that change at all so it holds up well, but I decided to stick with 30W. I have about 2K+ miles on Torco right now and I'm liking it.
#86
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Rotella doesnt do 5w30 do they? If it gets worse for me i will end up switching back to rp530. Expensive but good stuff. Never had blow by with rp but had excessive with subaru 5w30. I only bought two gallons for 45 bux enough for an oil change and some extra.
#87
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I could tell the difference all the time, regardless of ambient temp at start up that the 40W had a little more hesitation. At temp it felt relatively normal and actually did not burn it off during that change at all so it holds up well, but I decided to stick with 30W. I have about 2K+ miles on Torco right now and I'm liking it.
No they do not.
#88
If in doubt, FLAT OUT
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I was buying the Subaru oil by the case and that's about 2.5 oil changes and is only about $1/qt more than the T6 that way. After I had basically all leaks corrected on the WRX, it rarely ate any of it and I used it for over 2 years and I drive a LOT. I've been using it on the FXT for a few months and it has been OK on it too.
#89
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You're correct, the Purolator has the right bypass PSI, but doesn't have an anti-drain back valve. While there's a lot of differing opinions of the adbv, I think it's good to have an adbv even for our cars that have the filter with the threads up. It keeps some oil up in the motor instead of letting gravity drain it out.
Does the anti drain back valve matter? | Oil Filters | Bob Is The Oil Guy
The few extra $ the WIX costs is worth the possibility of protecting the motor that little bit more.
#90
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So-called German Castrol is 5W30, bit on the thick side and holds up well in EJ engines. Available at AZ for $8/qt. Pennzoil Ultra* is good 5W30 and is on sale occasionally. Even, for the money, Shell Rotella T5 in 10W30 is a good oil, synth blend for warmer climes or hair colors.
If you need cold cranking the M1 0W40 euro oil is cheap and very good oil.
* - Reportedly, Pennz is merging the Ultra and PRemium lines into a new oil formulation (GF-6 compliant).
cheers, gents!