New entry level coilover
02-01-2012, 01:51 PM
#32
banned
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: 2006 Zero/sports Widebody
Posts: 1,669
Car Info: 500+ whp Club
Steering Racks. Not so much if you only own the car for a short time and sell it. But long run you are going to cost yourself more money in repairs.
I think its what your ok with doing as long as you are safe. Because you need to understand that while you might be safe. You also need to be safe for the cars around you down the road. Failure to do that can cause hell for everyone with a Subaru.
02-01-2012, 04:43 PM
#33
Wear and tear on parts yes. Tires, Ball Joints, Strut Tubes, Wheel Bearings.
Steering Racks. Not so much if you only own the car for a short time and sell it. But long run you are going to cost yourself more money in repairs.
I think its what your ok with doing as long as you are safe. Because you need to understand that while you might be safe. You also need to be safe for the cars around you down the road. Failure to do that can cause hell for everyone with a Subaru.
Steering Racks. Not so much if you only own the car for a short time and sell it. But long run you are going to cost yourself more money in repairs.
I think its what your ok with doing as long as you are safe. Because you need to understand that while you might be safe. You also need to be safe for the cars around you down the road. Failure to do that can cause hell for everyone with a Subaru.
02-01-2012, 05:40 PM
#34
That's why you see these guys with super slammed cars having things like excess tire wear (not just from camber), blown out wheel bearings, torn CV boots, shot axles, rubbing sway bars, wheels rubbing on strut tubes, etc.
Once you take thing too far out of spec it starts to screw everything up. On top of that it has negative effects on turn in but I'll see if I can drag Gagan in here to talk some science on that matter.
That's why I'll put my car up against pretty much any of these hella flush cars for straight handling and my car is a mile off the ground compared to them.
Once I get two more parts on my car I'll be even more confident in it.
02-01-2012, 06:37 PM
#38
Ive said it before, but you can get new koni yellows for around $650, put whatever springs/perches/camber plates you want on them and for about $1100-1200 have a set of coilovers that will out perform, and probably ride better, than anything under at least $2K, all for the price of Taiwanese coils.
seriously dont know why anyone would buy BCs for the nearly the same money?
seriously dont know why anyone would buy BCs for the nearly the same money?
02-01-2012, 07:00 PM
#40
banned
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: 2006 Zero/sports Widebody
Posts: 1,669
Car Info: 500+ whp Club
The bump steer kits and caster kits make a big improvement on Subaru's if you have aluminum front control arms 1st. Then a nice underbody subframe I think would be next.
As far as wear on strut casings. You can side load the piston rod on the shock/ coil over and cause it to oval the seal and the casing. Causing a leak.
See if I can find a picture.
Also slamming a subaru can cause havoc on the CV axles and diffs. Just like lifting a 4x4 truck getting lifted. There is also a point where you run the risk of cv axle touching frame points. And when you are so low you just do not have suspension travel anymore. And then you are riding on bump stops. Or try and cut or remove the bump stops. Which then you can create even more damage.
02-01-2012, 08:05 PM
#43
Registered User
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: vacaville CA
Posts: 2,158
Car Info: 2006 sti
RCE yellows
JDM struts-confirmed this and still have zero clunk with over 40k on them.
group N top hats
ALK race
WL 29mmfr/27mm rear
group N mounts
handles great,rides great(road trips to disneyland)and i can drive on ****ty roads w/o my teeth falling out.
the way i figured it is,either spend 500 +/- a few dollars on feal OR sell the current setup,offset the cost of decent coilovers(under 1800)
02-01-2012, 08:08 PM
#44
Registered User
iTrader: (17)
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: vacaville CA
Posts: 2,158
Car Info: 2006 sti
Ive said it before, but you can get new koni yellows for around $650, put whatever springs/perches/camber plates you want on them and for about $1100-1200 have a set of coilovers that will out perform, and probably ride better, than anything under at least $2K, all for the price of Taiwanese coils.
seriously dont know why anyone would buy BCs for the nearly the same money?
seriously dont know why anyone would buy BCs for the nearly the same money?
02-01-2012, 08:30 PM
#45
to be honest i have what i believe is the perfect street setup for a aggressive driver,
RCE yellows
JDM struts-confirmed this and still have zero clunk with over 40k on them.
group N top hats
ALK race
WL 29mmfr/27mm rear
group N mounts
handles great,rides great(road trips to disneyland)and i can drive on ****ty roads w/o my teeth falling out.
the way i figured it is,either spend 500 +/- a few dollars on feal OR sell the current setup,offset the cost of decent coilovers(under 1800)
RCE yellows
JDM struts-confirmed this and still have zero clunk with over 40k on them.
group N top hats
ALK race
WL 29mmfr/27mm rear
group N mounts
handles great,rides great(road trips to disneyland)and i can drive on ****ty roads w/o my teeth falling out.
the way i figured it is,either spend 500 +/- a few dollars on feal OR sell the current setup,offset the cost of decent coilovers(under 1800)
Given the different platforms (GD vs GH), I am probably going to have to take a completely different route.
I still need to call Koni and see how short of a shock I can get from them. I have also come to realize (and Gagan told me this from the beginning) is that 8k springs (BC) are too heavy for a DD. The new set-up will incorporate 5k or 6k Swifts.
Konis, GC perches, 6k Swifts, WhiteLine 22/22 Sways, and my Cusco Rear LCAs... I should be sitting pretty good. Only downer is that all of those goodies are going to cost a pretty penny.
Not to mention wheels and tires... OH GOD wheels and tires. 