Method4 / FIA Body Shop?
i think the pm got a response saying that i will look for it, also since we never found it , why did you not just tell me that there was no way of taking the lugs out unless you bought a new set? Had you told me of that i would have happily bought you a new set with out any argument or using words such as a stupid shop would be expected to use, you really think that i would loose a customer over a 125 dollars ? like i said to resolve a conflict both parties need to be willing, all my intentions are worth garbage. Also now that I know that you had to pay for a lug nut set I am still willing to reimburse you for the cost of it. Anything else that I can help you with? also remember that I am still willing to reimburse even though you have made it clear that you will never come back here. I dont care what you do , I just care to do what is right. So if you need me to send you a check then pm me the address or email it to me fiaimpreza@yahoo.com .
Cheers
Sammy
Cheers
Sammy
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 411
From: Bay Area, Cali
Car Info: '98 Legacy GT - EJ20 swap, STI RA tranny, VF22+
I even remember looking for that key! It was freaking me out, too, because IIRC you called the shop shortly after leaving from the clutch install and I answered the phone because nobody else was here and went and looked for it myself. The car was only ever in one place and there's really no where it could go so I was shocked to not see it RIGHT there. This one's a mystery for sure. Granted I spend very little time in the area where the techs work unless I have my own car in the air, but it's normally organized and there aren't like hiding places and your car had just left so I was definitely definitely expecting to see the key sitting right there.
I know the techs know that they are supposed to put EVERYTHING in the customer's car, including old OEM parts and anything else (well, not old fluids
). You never know what people do and don't want and I'm pretty sure these guys put everything in a box and put it in the car, and they know lug nut keys go in the glove box. Keep in mind that a good 75% of the cars that come through the shop have lug nut keys so it's not something weird or whatever and everybody obviously knows what they are and that they're important and that they have to stay with a specific car.
In my FXT after I sold it, the new owner actually called and said the lug nut lock key wasn't in the car and I had a little argument with him. He ended up drilling into the locks and taking them off because he was a bit impatient, and like two days later he found that the key had fallen out of the back of the glove compartment and was under some junk he had in the passenger foot well
...what can ya do?... Not saying it's the case here. You've had lots of time to look for it and I have no doubts it isn't in your car. He gave it like 4 hours haha
Totally screwy.
That sucks that you apparently can't order just a key from Rays, btw... I registered my serial # w/ Gorilla when I got their locking lugs so if I ever lose one, I can call them up and they'll send me a new key that will fit my lugs. It's like $15 or $20.
You mean closer to the floor, or closer to you? Normally if the pedal is too close to the floor when at rest that would mean it cannot completely disengage the clutch. You'd have the opposite problem of slipping. If, when your foot is off the pedal, it hits the max 'up' height before pressure is actually released from the slave cylinder then sure, you might have slipping because the clutch will think you're pushing on the pedal a bit when you're actually not. There's a specific amount of pedal free play that should be there before hydraulic resistance is met (it's in the factory service manuals).
Maybe this is why your OEM clutch went out in the first place? Or at least a factor? NORMALLY you don't have to mess with the pedal adjustment, even after a clutch swap. The new clutch shouldn't affect the pretension on the pedal since you do not touch the pedal assembly when doing a clutch job, nor does any of the geometry of forks and bearings, etc, change at all. IMHO, if it was truly off, it was truly off before the clutch change as well $0.02
...just on a side note, my carbon/kevlar clutch slipped like a **** for 600 miles until it was finally broken in and gripping on the chromoly flywheel. Since then it wont slip when engaged under any condition. Break-in really makes a difference....
I know the techs know that they are supposed to put EVERYTHING in the customer's car, including old OEM parts and anything else (well, not old fluids
). You never know what people do and don't want and I'm pretty sure these guys put everything in a box and put it in the car, and they know lug nut keys go in the glove box. Keep in mind that a good 75% of the cars that come through the shop have lug nut keys so it's not something weird or whatever and everybody obviously knows what they are and that they're important and that they have to stay with a specific car.In my FXT after I sold it, the new owner actually called and said the lug nut lock key wasn't in the car and I had a little argument with him. He ended up drilling into the locks and taking them off because he was a bit impatient, and like two days later he found that the key had fallen out of the back of the glove compartment and was under some junk he had in the passenger foot well
...what can ya do?... Not saying it's the case here. You've had lots of time to look for it and I have no doubts it isn't in your car. He gave it like 4 hours hahaTotally screwy.
That sucks that you apparently can't order just a key from Rays, btw... I registered my serial # w/ Gorilla when I got their locking lugs so if I ever lose one, I can call them up and they'll send me a new key that will fit my lugs. It's like $15 or $20.
the clutch pedal needed to be adjusted. the pedal was almost half the length of where the brake pedal was.
Maybe this is why your OEM clutch went out in the first place? Or at least a factor? NORMALLY you don't have to mess with the pedal adjustment, even after a clutch swap. The new clutch shouldn't affect the pretension on the pedal since you do not touch the pedal assembly when doing a clutch job, nor does any of the geometry of forks and bearings, etc, change at all. IMHO, if it was truly off, it was truly off before the clutch change as well $0.02
...just on a side note, my carbon/kevlar clutch slipped like a **** for 600 miles until it was finally broken in and gripping on the chromoly flywheel. Since then it wont slip when engaged under any condition. Break-in really makes a difference....
Last edited by EJ20Legacy; Jun 20, 2007 at 03:09 PM.
I even remember looking for that key! It was freaking me out, too, because IIRC you called the shop shortly after leaving from the clutch install and I answered the phone because nobody else was here and went and looked for it myself. The car was only ever in one place and there's really no where it could go so I was shocked to not see it RIGHT there. This one's a mystery for sure. Granted I spend very little time in the area where the techs work unless I have my own car in the air, but it's normally organized and there aren't like hiding places and your car had just left so I was definitely definitely expecting to see the key sitting right there.
I know the techs know that they are supposed to put EVERYTHING in the customer's car, including old OEM parts and anything else (well, not old fluids ). You never know what people do and don't want and I'm pretty sure these guys put everything in a box and put it in the car, and they know lug nut keys go in the glove box. Keep in mind that a good 75% of the cars that come through the shop have lug nut keys so it's not something weird or whatever and everybody obviously knows what they are and that they're important and that they have to stay with a specific car.
In my FXT after I sold it, the new owner actually called and said the lug nut lock key wasn't in the car and I had a little argument with him. He ended up drilling into the locks and taking them off because he was a bit impatient, and like two days later he found that the key had fallen out of the back of the glove compartment and was under some junk he had in the passenger foot well ...what can ya do?... Not saying it's the case here. You've had lots of time to look for it and I have no doubts it isn't in your car. He gave it like 4 hours haha
Totally screwy.
That sucks that you apparently can't order just a key from Rays, btw... I registered my serial # w/ Gorilla when I got their locking lugs so if I ever lose one, I can call them up and they'll send me a new key that will fit my lugs. It's like $15 or $20.
You mean closer to the floor, or closer to you? Normally if the pedal is too close to the floor when at rest that would mean it cannot completely disengage the clutch. You'd have the opposite problem of slipping. If, when your foot is off the pedal, it hits the max 'up' height before pressure is actually released from the slave cylinder then sure, you might have slipping because the clutch will think you're pushing on the pedal a bit when you're actually not. There's a specific amount of pedal free play that should be there before hydraulic resistance is met (it's in the factory service manuals).
Maybe this is why your OEM clutch went out in the first place? Or at least a factor? NORMALLY you don't have to mess with the pedal adjustment, even after a clutch swap. The new clutch shouldn't affect the pretension on the pedal since you do not touch the pedal assembly when doing a clutch job, nor does any of the geometry of forks and bearings, etc, change at all. IMHO, if it was truly off, it was truly off before the clutch change as well $0.02
...just on a side note, my carbon/kevlar clutch slipped like a **** for 600 miles until it was finally broken in and gripping on the chromoly flywheel. Since then it wont slip when engaged under any condition. Break-in really makes a difference....
I know the techs know that they are supposed to put EVERYTHING in the customer's car, including old OEM parts and anything else (well, not old fluids
). You never know what people do and don't want and I'm pretty sure these guys put everything in a box and put it in the car, and they know lug nut keys go in the glove box. Keep in mind that a good 75% of the cars that come through the shop have lug nut keys so it's not something weird or whatever and everybody obviously knows what they are and that they're important and that they have to stay with a specific car.In my FXT after I sold it, the new owner actually called and said the lug nut lock key wasn't in the car and I had a little argument with him. He ended up drilling into the locks and taking them off because he was a bit impatient, and like two days later he found that the key had fallen out of the back of the glove compartment and was under some junk he had in the passenger foot well
...what can ya do?... Not saying it's the case here. You've had lots of time to look for it and I have no doubts it isn't in your car. He gave it like 4 hours hahaTotally screwy.
That sucks that you apparently can't order just a key from Rays, btw... I registered my serial # w/ Gorilla when I got their locking lugs so if I ever lose one, I can call them up and they'll send me a new key that will fit my lugs. It's like $15 or $20.
You mean closer to the floor, or closer to you? Normally if the pedal is too close to the floor when at rest that would mean it cannot completely disengage the clutch. You'd have the opposite problem of slipping. If, when your foot is off the pedal, it hits the max 'up' height before pressure is actually released from the slave cylinder then sure, you might have slipping because the clutch will think you're pushing on the pedal a bit when you're actually not. There's a specific amount of pedal free play that should be there before hydraulic resistance is met (it's in the factory service manuals).
Maybe this is why your OEM clutch went out in the first place? Or at least a factor? NORMALLY you don't have to mess with the pedal adjustment, even after a clutch swap. The new clutch shouldn't affect the pretension on the pedal since you do not touch the pedal assembly when doing a clutch job, nor does any of the geometry of forks and bearings, etc, change at all. IMHO, if it was truly off, it was truly off before the clutch change as well $0.02
...just on a side note, my carbon/kevlar clutch slipped like a **** for 600 miles until it was finally broken in and gripping on the chromoly flywheel. Since then it wont slip when engaged under any condition. Break-in really makes a difference....
Only company that sells just the Ray's Key that i know of is Aspec. But Aspec requires you specify the pattern of the key. But having a popped tire at the time i had to purchase another set of ray's lug nuts asap. And i couldn't wait for a response for you guys.
About the clutch:
You are correct about the clutch, but you guys being in frisco while i'm in san jose. I couldn't find the time to drive up there so i took it to another shop.
Also you say that :
There's a specific amount of pedal free play that should be there before hydraulic resistance is met (it's in the factory service manuals).
Last edited by yoshi8me; Jun 20, 2007 at 03:45 PM.
ok so the clutch has no poblems as you have said your self, as for the lug nuts your check has been sent. I hope this resolves this issue and we can all move on with our lives. Thank you for your business and I apologize for the inconvenience we have caused. If we can ever help to make this right , you are welcome here.
Sammy
Sammy
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 482
From: Oaktown
Car Info: 2002 wrx, new (to me) 2006 exige, low n slow miata
I don't really need any of your help, but thanks for the offer. I've stated my opinions and provided some interested parties the requested insight into my experiences, so I'm happy to clear out of this thread now.
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 411
From: Bay Area, Cali
Car Info: '98 Legacy GT - EJ20 swap, STI RA tranny, VF22+
No I think you misunderstand. Please read the very beginning of my first post. I work in the same building, for a completely separate company. I'm just here all day, every day so I shared my experience... but it's probably time to stop so I will attempt to gracefully bow out...
No business owner in their right mind would blame something on their techs like their techs weren't their responsiblity. YOUR employees are YOUR responsibility. Period.
No business owner in their right mind would blame something on their techs like their techs weren't their responsiblity. YOUR employees are YOUR responsibility. Period.
No I think you misunderstand. Please read the very beginning of my first post. I work in the same building, for a completely separate company. I'm just here all day, every day so I shared my experience... but it's probably time to stop so I will attempt to gracefully bow out...
No business owner in their right mind would blame something on their techs like their techs weren't their responsiblity. YOUR employees are YOUR responsibility. Period.
No business owner in their right mind would blame something on their techs like their techs weren't their responsiblity. YOUR employees are YOUR responsibility. Period.
How could I have spoken too soon if you haven't paid him yet? Seems like I spoke before the fact. If, as Yoshi pointed out, it actually happens. The fact of the matter is, you lost he key, then when you couldn't find it you forgot about your customer.
I don't really need any of your help, but thanks for the offer. I've stated my opinions and provided some interested parties the requested insight into my experiences, so I'm happy to clear out of this thread now.
I don't really need any of your help, but thanks for the offer. I've stated my opinions and provided some interested parties the requested insight into my experiences, so I'm happy to clear out of this thread now.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 619
From: the City
Car Info: '02 EJ25FXT Stage 2 "No Laggin' Wagon"
Thanks for the feedback both positive and well...not so positive. Like I said, didn't mean to stir the pot.
Exiting stage right... (quietly tip toeing out of this thread)
Exiting stage right... (quietly tip toeing out of this thread)
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