runboyrun

So for awhile I've noticed that my battery terminals have pretty bad corrosion on them. I finally got around to cleaning them off and putting an anti corrosive gel on them and was good to go. Later in the evening I go to start up and I get the click click of a dead batt and then try one more time and I start up fine. Then again late at night I go to start up and it is completely dead and it requires a jump. Im not sure why it would go from running okay besides the headlights slightly dimming when I use the window motors to not working AFTER I clean the terminals and apply the gel.

Any thoughts or ideas? The battery is almost 4 years old so its probably on its way out. Planning on looking into Sear's batts since they have solid warranties.

JelloChex

iTrader: (6)

If your battery was dead, how long did you leave the car running for after you got it working?

It could be that the battery is dying and not providing enough CCA's to fire up the car properly, but it could be that you didn't allow the car to run long enough to allow the alternator to recharge your battery (assuming that there is not an issue with the alternator as well).

JelloChex

iTrader: (6)

Also, if you are getting corrosion, you probably don't have the anti-corrosion washers. They may not help much with your current battery, but if you do end up getting a new one, they are really cheap and should help protect the next battery if you do end up getting them.

Duralast/Anti-corrosion washers (BWB-1) | Battery Terminal Protector | AutoZone.com


Also, if you are looking at getting a replacement battery, take a look at the Duralast Gold Batteries as well (if you have an Autozone at all around you). From what I saw when comparing different batteries, it seemed like these provided some of the highest CCA's (640) + CA's (800). That seems to be better than most of the readily available competitors, plus that is even better (slightly) than the Optima Yellow Tops (which cost about $100 more). The Optima Red Tops have a bit higher ratings, but again, they seem to be quite a bit more expensive. The Die Hard 35R Batteries look to be the equivalent in the Die Hard lineup to this batteries specs. The other standard Sears batteries tend to be be lower specs, unless you went with a Die Hard Platinum (which looks to be about the same price range as the Optima's).

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...115788_7704_0_

I've run Die Hards previously and they were always solid performers for me. I've been on the Duralast Gold for a few years and never run in to issues with this either.

Overbear

Some suggestions on batteries...

1)stay AWAY from Optima, they are junk, and just not the batteries they use to be. You are welcome to the 4-5 dead in 14 months ones I have laying around in the garage.

2)Sears Diehard, great batteries, but their top of the line, the Platinum series are worth every single penny. A true captive gel battery made by odyssey, with the sears silver and gray case rather than the black and red of odyssey's "name brand" units. Sears sells it with (unless its changed) a 4 year no questions asked replacement, followed up by 4 years pro-rated.

Be warned, the SDP batteries are pricey, but they are a true no maintenance unit that is worth the price.

mooshoo

What do you think about the lightweight Braille batteries? I'm thinking to get one. When I swapped plugs I had to remove the battery and was shocked how heavy it was. Almost 40 pound! That's gotta make a noticeable difference in front end handling.

runboyrun

I drove for about 15 minutes after the first time it was half dead. And then 10 after the time it was completely dead. I haven't tried to stay it this morning because it was either go for it or hitch a ride so I chose the later. Plan on picking up a diehard 35 gold from sears on the way home. Thanks for all the info guys.

queeg9k

iTrader: (11)

Try taking your old battery to a garage and have them throw it on a charger for several hours. They might charge you $20 or so but you might not need a new battery at all!

This is all speculation with out performing some simple tests with a multimeter.

Overbear

I don't see the reason to get one, for a street driven car. Sure in a track car, it can make a difference but in something you drive around the streets, I personally don't see the reason.

Rufino O

iTrader: (9)

An alternative would be to keep the full sized battery and do a battery relocation to the trunk passenger side. It'll help with weight distribution and better handling.