I knew this day would come :(
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From: San Leandro, CA
Car Info: Forester XTi
Looks good to me. Just one note though. Don't use "regular" ARP head studs. They stretch and need to be re-torqued after 500 miles or so which is a no option for Subarus. Get ARP 625 or MAP H11 studs instead! I stretched "regular" ARPs while tracking (head lifting) under E85 torque levels.
I can e-mail or PM you my rebuild estimate from another builder if you're interested.
I can e-mail or PM you my rebuild estimate from another builder if you're interested.
Don't spread FUD
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From: San Jose, CA
Car Info: http://kiva.org/invitedby/brett4254
RE Studs:
Over the years, I've learned to not argue with machinists about engine building. Those guys see more head/main studs in a month then I'll see in my whole life. With your machine shop, you either trust them or you don't there's no middle ground.
I'm actually foregoing the Cosworth Oil Pump based on these guy's recommendations
At this point, I'm feeling pretty committed to what's happening. I have time to change stuff - but this seems like a good plan.
Right now my big debates are:
- Going to Evans Coolant instead of conventional. It's gonna add $200 to the budget, not sure if worth it.
- Once the engine comes out, if the clutch is bad (did an Exedy a few years back but never loved it) what I'll do. I may do a Streetlight Flywheel
- Wondering if a doing a 3" Intermediate pipe makes sense. I'm keeping the OE axle back with the electric cutout. In general catbacks have been proven to be a waste of money on GD's, but with the E85 this thing is making so much power I'm wondering if it has crossed the threshold of the 2.5" exhaust
In general this project is WAY over budget already; like quadruple. My wife is being understanding as she knows the engine frag also wrecked my Autocross season (so it wasn't on purpose)... but I don't want to cross any lines. Anyone who's been married knows that nothing is more hazardous to a car project than a pissed off wife
Last edited by Lowend; Sep 18, 2015 at 08:10 AM.
You don't need to have 500p beast for that.
I'd love to see it I'm curious to see anyone's actual build/numbers
RE Studs:
Over the years, I've learned to not argue with machinists about engine building. Those guys see more head/main studs in a month then I'll see in my whole life. With your machine shop, you either trust them or you don't there's no middle ground.
I'm actually foregoing the Cosworth Oil Pump based on these guy's recommendations
RE Studs:
Over the years, I've learned to not argue with machinists about engine building. Those guys see more head/main studs in a month then I'll see in my whole life. With your machine shop, you either trust them or you don't there's no middle ground.
I'm actually foregoing the Cosworth Oil Pump based on these guy's recommendations
Last edited by wwrx; Sep 18, 2015 at 08:17 AM.
I don't think I'm violating any secrecy so here's a copy of the estimate.
I've done a bunch of research, the engine stuff is pretty much as cheap as I've found it. Mann's labor rate is higher than some other shops, but they already know the situation and I'm sure after towing costs the savings by taking the car elsewhere would be minor if anything
I've done a bunch of research, the engine stuff is pretty much as cheap as I've found it. Mann's labor rate is higher than some other shops, but they already know the situation and I'm sure after towing costs the savings by taking the car elsewhere would be minor if anything
but i-club no care so what ever, just a heads up if anyone wants to know:
B&P §9884.9, CCR §3356(c)
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From: Hayward
Car Info: 1996 Impreza L
Odd I ran standard ARP 2000 stud's in the standard size for years in probably some of the harshest track environments ever and the car couldn't make less than 550whp on it's lowest setting and I never stretched a stud or lifted a head, there's a lot of pressure required to stretch a high tensile steel stud even the cheaper ARP 2000.
Only time I ever had to retorque them was when I in a moment of stupidity attempted using copper o-ringed head gaskets, nothing to do with the stud's and what a nightmare that was. MLS all the way for me that copper crap and stay with the car bowling V8's!!
Only time I ever had to retorque them was when I in a moment of stupidity attempted using copper o-ringed head gaskets, nothing to do with the stud's and what a nightmare that was. MLS all the way for me that copper crap and stay with the car bowling V8's!!
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From: San Leandro, CA
Car Info: Forester XTi
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From: East Bay
Car Info: 2004 Big Booty STi with a two finger gap.
Sorry for your loss!
That Outfront block is tough as nails from my research so that should serve you well. Definitely go with the Evans. No more hot spots and a definite plus for autox.
Is this the same tuner that was I Speed/ Crawford Performance?
That Outfront block is tough as nails from my research so that should serve you well. Definitely go with the Evans. No more hot spots and a definite plus for autox.
Is this the same tuner that was I Speed/ Crawford Performance?
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Bill contracts for a lot of people, but yes he's done work for Crawford and i speed in the past. I'm aware of I-Speed's reputation in the bay area. Being he's a contractor, I don't think Bill is responsible for their crappy practices
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Car Info: Whatever The Lot Provides ;)
Meanwhile, is the Hemi broken in yet?
(Talk after 4 on Monday, I'm busy thru w/e w a friend/family funeral.)
(Talk after 4 on Monday, I'm busy thru w/e w a friend/family funeral.)
Last edited by TheFozz; Sep 19, 2015 at 12:34 PM.
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From: East Bay
Car Info: 2004 Big Booty STi with a two finger gap.
I know you're over budget with this but if I could make any suggestions it would be to get some mild headwork and cams while you're in there. Only going off of my own personal experience here. Keep us informed as the project progresses. Good luck!
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From: BAIC Wagon Clique
Car Info: '02 WRB WRX Wagon
Right, I-speeds rep was not on Bill's tuning. My car still runs the tune I got from Bill back in 2004.
