by the way i have used it maybe a total of 10 times.

 

If your like 5-9 and have a normal size foot, unlike me who has a 13, your choices in boards are endless. There are a ton of good companies out there now. Burton, Sims, Lamar, Santa Cruz, Palmer...just to name a few. Just find a board that is in you price range and one you can stay on for awhile.

For standard ridding or All-Mountain try something in the range of between your chin and your nose. If you want something for more big mountain and cruzing you can go with something a little larger, like eye or forehead level. But just remember the larger the board the more effort it "may" take to turn it. But it depends on the board radius side cut and the width of it.

If you want a park only board then you can go with something smaller. If it your 1st board and the only board that you will be ridding then the All-Mountain would be best for you.

Another thing to look at is the stiffness of the board. Normally the stiffer the board the more aggressive the board and the more you have to pay attention while you ride. So something with a little bit of a softer flex pattern is good if you just like cruzing around. But if you're really good you may feel like the board is not holding the edge or flapping all around when your bomb'n! So if you have skills then get something toward the stiffer range.

Boots are very important. Make sure you get a boot that feels like it fits well in the store. Cuz nothing is worse than having a boot that is to wide, narrow, or small. Like boards, boots have different flex's. Stiff, Medium and Soft. Try and stay with a medium to give you good support. Burton has always been good to me when it comes to boots. But you will get a lot of different responses on that. I tried Northwaves for a season and my foot kept falling asleep. They were to narrow for me.

Bindings...Step-in's or Straps...that debate could go on for years! Most of the Pro's are still rockn' Straps, as do I. I have a few friends who ride Burton Step-in's and they say they will never go back to straps. The burtons work differently than the K2 Clickers or the Switch. It's a side entry with cams build into the side of the binding. You can clear out the base just like a normal binding and they don't get much ice build up. Just like boots there are a ton of bindings. Sims, Burton, Drakes, etc. Again I've tried the for mentioned and have pretty much stuck with the Burtons.

I think someone already mentioned Tri-City Sports in Fremont. Go there quickly before they start getting in all the new stuff (which may already be going on, it's getting closer) and see if they have last years models and you should be able to get a setup for around 300 to 500 bucks, board boots and bindings. Or you can buy used.

If you want more info just let me know.

Lowball

P.S. sorry for any spelling mistakes...

 

one more thing...

Just to give you a quick run down...I've been snowboarding for 15 seasons now and have ridden all over the US and parts of Canada. The boards that I ride have been Burton and Santa Cruz. Both innovating and rider driven/developed companies, as are many.

The size boards that I've ridden have varied from a 156 (which is small for me) and a 172 (which is on the larger side). Currently I'm ridding in the range from 159 to 163. I'm 6'-0" weigh 225 lbs. and have a size 13 boot.

For powder days I'm ridding a Burton Fish 60 (160) (Fish because it's kinda shaped like one) and for just normal days i.e. All-Mountain/All-Condition I'm ridding a Santa Cruz Super Duo in 162. That board f-ing rips!!! The Santa Cruz Duo is by far the fastest board and the board with the most control I've personally ever ridden for a all mountin set up.

Man I could go on forever. I better stop while I can

LB

 

ur supposed to choose size of board by weight not height. u should get a twin tip with some high camber hehe.. get good pop.

hey would anyone be interested in setting up an i-club snowboard trip that would be fun. have races and stuff.. plus its fun to drive in the snow

rob

 

that would be alot of fun. you could count me in.

 

Rob,

Weight is a factor but not the only one. Sometimes you have to get a board that is the right size as well. That's why as a general rule, somewhere between the chin and nose is a good starting point for beginers. If I got my boards based on weight only then everyboard I rode would have to be like a 168 or larger! Which is BS! I'm 6-foot and 225lbs. And I want to ride whatever board I feel like. I may be pushing the boards "manufactuered spec-ed limits" but the board will still work as it's designed.

Lowball

 

Well I'm pushing the limits or being 6'4 and I weigh now 200, i was around 230 last year. I ride a 163 Ride all mountain. I have been looking into getting something bigger because I don't feel this board keeping up with me as well. I use Salomon boots and bindings, cause at the time that was all they had for a size 13. I have been wanting to get new equipment, but all my money goes into my car. But I would at least like a stiffer board. I am more of a mountain carver, and not so much a trick person. So I usually ride fast and hard and my board just isn't doing the trick anymore.

 

Just remember bigger is not always better. Your idea about getting a stiffer board is a good one. Like you I'm not a "trick person" that much either. Speed and hard agressive ridding and doing more extream lines is me, and the pow. I use to ride a Burton Canyon 168 for cruzing and powder days. It was a good board with more side cut than most big boards but it was pretty soft. And now like I said I ride a Burton Fish60 (160) for powder. The board is crazy for powder. Even though it's only a160 it just floats. I used the Fish56 the 1st year it came out and I couldn't believe a 156 floated so well without having to put weight on the back leg. I went to the 160 last season just because of my weight and for a little more stability. If anyone ever gets a chance to ride this board, do it. It's not an all mountain board so I wouldn't buy it unless you have more than on board.

Lowball

The new Burton Custom X and the Santa Cruz Duo or Super Duo and a bunch of stuff in the Palmer line up is very stiff and agressive.

 

See, told you Lance knows about boarding...



-Gagan

 

Hey Lowball, if you want to PM me and rant about snowboarding go ahead, I don't know much and could use some rant knowlege...

so yeah, cool, I'm prob looking for a 155 with size 10-10.5 boots. Looking in the low price range. Holla back if you got one for sale.


Hell yeah we should do an iclub snowboard trip, so you can watch my *** fall down the slope, then watch my white rex blend into the snow and get smashed over by a snow plow

 

It has little to do with the "chin and nose" rule. It has more to do with the side cut and width of the board. Even though I have a size 13 boot I've been ridding narrower boards or a little bit wider boards with more side cut to allow you to turn (168 Canyon, for example). I rode a 158 Santa Cruz FW (F-ing Wide) and didn't like it at all. Felt like I was ridding a wooden plank. I had to have the bindings set up just right (kinda like straight across) to get it to turn.

And again it's a general rule. It may be old school but it still works. Now days it is becoming more specific. Especially with womens boards becoming more and more incorporated in to companies line ups. It all depends on the ridding you intend to do.

What you said about the libtech boards is true. Great boards and they offer a little bit more range in the weight department.

That's why you can't "always" look at the weight spec. I have the Santa Cruz Duo...a 159 and a 162 and I'm 225 and have no problem with them at all. The weight spec on the top end is less of a factor as it would be with a smaller lighter person who may have trouble flexing the board to make it carve properly. Therefore they would want to make sure the have something in the spec.-ed weight range. But with the Duo being having a stiffer flex pattern the range is not a important. Again on the larger end of the weight scale. Of cource if a guy is 250 to 300 lbs he's not gonna want a board that only specs up to 210. It has to be with in reason.

Passing a skier is not that hard. They sometimes take a much different line down the mountain. Now passing a good skier, who knows the mountain like the back of his hand, is pretty much not gonna happen on groomed runs. No matter how good and fast you think you are.

 

I have been riding for 10 years. I am with lowball...I only ride Burton or Santa Cruz.

I do have other boards but they are old and where hook ups.

As for size recommendations and what not I can't say anything unless I know your weight, skill level and riding style preference.

Like me for one...I am huge...my ride wait last year was 250....I got fat....trying to loose it now...because I know what I am doing I was able to rip it on a 159 all mountain board. I also have a 152 and a 156. I am buying a 166 for deep snow.

I would definately hit tri-city right now. They have some great all mountain boards for the average size and skilled rider for like $200 right now.....

Stay away from step in bindings. If you are under 180 pounds and don't go huge flows are the best. But me...being big...I only ride burton bindings...I have a pair of c-14's and a pair of burton's new P1 HD's from last year.

As for boots..are you local? I will check what size they are but I have a brand stinking new pair of Forum Devun Walsh boots. They were over $270 new. They literally are brand new....I didn't like them so I got a pair of burton ion boots...I have a wide foot and they didn't fit in my burton bindings right. ...they rip though...my brother rides ina very similar pair...they are grey and blue.

I think they are 10.5's...if you are local...email me...I will bring them to UCKK on tuesday...I Drive the white 04 wagon. If they fit I will hook you up mad cheap....like $75/100 bucks.

I don't have any boards for sell that you would want...I mash on my boards....

any of you guys ride bear valley? I love to find new people to ride with if you like trees and back country....I like kirkwood and bear valley. Have a house in arnold....main reason I bought the wrx wagon is so I could take it to the snow and not need chains and would have to have a car that gets 15 miles to the gallon.

Yeah....dude if you want a recommendation shoot me a pm or email and I will let you know what i think.

and as for passing skiiers down hill, cool. If they are skilled skiiers and trying to race you down hill....you can not pass them...skies are much faster than any snowboard. I used to race and generally when your times are no where near the ski times....I got up to like 10th in ski times on one run and the announcer didn't know what to say....it was heavenly. ....but stick me in the powder and you can pass most skiiers.....that is why I snowboard....powder.....and trees.

 

oh lowball....haaa.

My 159 is specked up to 160 I think...haa...I had 80 pounds on it last year....I popped the clear coat on day two I think...they offered to replace it even at the end of the season even with my weight issue.....but then again I have been riding burton since 93 so I have some history.

I hope to god I don't weigh that this season. Shooting for 210. My fat *** needs to loose weight. I really should weigh about 190.

So yeah...check the specks...they usually have reasons for them....

 

OneMan!!!! You da man! I feel your wisdom. I've never had any problems with the boards I've ridden as far as popping the clear coat but if your roll'n 2-fitty (250) then it could be a problem

I'm trying to drop weight as well but I keep working out and putting on weight Well hopefuly I'll loose some of this fat!

keep me in mind and lets hook up this season.

Lowball