60,000 mile service?
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From: Bay Area, CA
Car Info: '05 LGT
60,000 mile service?
I'm getting ready to do my service, and was wondering where the best/cheapest place(s), either locally or online would be to get the fluids and parts I need?
ATF: Any brand Dexron III
Engine oil: Mobil 1 10w-30
Rear diff fluid: any API GL-5 SAE 75W-90
Front diff fluid: any API GL-5 SAE 80W-90
Engine coolant: Subaru brand?
Spark plugs: NGK BKR5E-11
Oil filter: Purolater 14460(L)
Air filter: OEM?
PCV Valve: OEM
Spark plug wires?: Magnecor or something I can buy locally.
That should be about it untill I inspect things, and find out I need to replace worn belts or hoses or whatever. Speaking of which would the dealer be the best place to get them if I need em? TIA
ATF: Any brand Dexron III
Engine oil: Mobil 1 10w-30
Rear diff fluid: any API GL-5 SAE 75W-90
Front diff fluid: any API GL-5 SAE 80W-90
Engine coolant: Subaru brand?
Spark plugs: NGK BKR5E-11
Oil filter: Purolater 14460(L)
Air filter: OEM?
PCV Valve: OEM
Spark plug wires?: Magnecor or something I can buy locally.
That should be about it untill I inspect things, and find out I need to replace worn belts or hoses or whatever. Speaking of which would the dealer be the best place to get them if I need em? TIA
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www.subaruparts.com for all the OEM stuff
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60K is a timing belt inspect if I recall correctly, but not necessarily replace. That said, replace wouldn't be a bad idea.
And the WRX (assuming that is what you own) doesn't have plug wires.....coil on plug ignition instead.
And the WRX (assuming that is what you own) doesn't have plug wires.....coil on plug ignition instead.
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From: Bay Area, CA
Car Info: '05 LGT
Yeah I forgot to specify vehicle thinking this was the "other site."
It's a 99 Legacy GT. I have the Shopkey checklist and it's only inspect the belts at 60K. I think replacement is supposed to be at 105K same with valve adjustment, although I'll do both much sooner than that, considering I don't put that many miles on it annually I found a site www.replacementautoparts.com that seems fairly cheap., with free shipping on orders over $50. Hopefully everthings in stock and they're for real.
It's a 99 Legacy GT. I have the Shopkey checklist and it's only inspect the belts at 60K. I think replacement is supposed to be at 105K same with valve adjustment, although I'll do both much sooner than that, considering I don't put that many miles on it annually I found a site www.replacementautoparts.com that seems fairly cheap., with free shipping on orders over $50. Hopefully everthings in stock and they're for real.
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Doing your own service does not do anything to your warranty, provided you save the receipts for the parts/fluids you buy.
Before my milage was over 36000, I was also writing the milage on the receipts.
Nowthat I'm 60k, there's no reason to keep receipts at all, yay!
The only one of those things that sucks to do yourself is the coolant and the rear diff fluid. Subaru makes it a pain to drain the block compared to other cars I've worked on. And it's not easy to get oil into the rear diff, you need to have a pump of some sort.
The others are all really easy to do yourself at 60k. Though I dunno about front diff on an auto, that may or may not be easy.
FWIW I always use factory coolant and air filters for cars I work on (i.e. Toyota coolant on a Toyota). I know they overcharge, but on things like coolant who knows if brand xyz really has the right corrosion inhibitors, which is almost the only reason to use coolant at all when you live in such a mild climate. And corrosion inhibitors are the primary reason coolant needs to be changed.
Before my milage was over 36000, I was also writing the milage on the receipts.
Nowthat I'm 60k, there's no reason to keep receipts at all, yay!
The only one of those things that sucks to do yourself is the coolant and the rear diff fluid. Subaru makes it a pain to drain the block compared to other cars I've worked on. And it's not easy to get oil into the rear diff, you need to have a pump of some sort.
The others are all really easy to do yourself at 60k. Though I dunno about front diff on an auto, that may or may not be easy.
FWIW I always use factory coolant and air filters for cars I work on (i.e. Toyota coolant on a Toyota). I know they overcharge, but on things like coolant who knows if brand xyz really has the right corrosion inhibitors, which is almost the only reason to use coolant at all when you live in such a mild climate. And corrosion inhibitors are the primary reason coolant needs to be changed.
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And it's not easy to get oil into the rear diff, you need to have a pump of some sort.
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