I really need to replace my thin and warped rotors and after about 6 weeks of waiting for my Brembos have decided to look around.

Has anyone heard good or bad about "Power Slot Cryo" or "DBA 4000 Series" rotors??

Is there any real benefit to moving up in rotor size??
I can already lock up my tires with the stock rotors ... anything more will just add rotational inertia and unsprung weight right??


Thanks all

 

Rotational inertia-maybe, depends not just on wt, but how it is distributed across the radius of the rotor (picky stuff). Unsprung wt, yes if the weight is greater it's greater (duh). But the reason for wt in most higher performance metal brakes is that there's greater mass to absorb the heat. Which resulted in carbon fiber and ceramic racing applications, low wt with good heat absorption/dissipation. Anyway the best answer to your question if you're a one hard stop,give it a rest kinda driver it makes little difference. If you're repeatedly hard on the brakes over short periods of time the higher performance and usually heavier brake rotors will give you less fade. By the way, for hard use, don't neglect to look into higher performance pads, brake lines and brake fluid. Like so many things the whole system has to be integrated for it's intended use. PS: I noticed you live in Az,there are a lot of reasons rotors can get warped, but around here on factory stuff one of them is you got hot brakes and slam into a local thunderstorm generated puddle-voila,warped rotors. To the rest of the country, Aridzonians can have a bone dry street on one side of an intersection and flooded on the other side,all the time in the summer.

 

I've already got a set of Hawk pads sitting in my garage .... for like 4 weeks
I swapped out my leaky old soft brake lines for nice braided steel ones a year ago when one soft line broke .... fun day :/
Did the fluid that day too.

The reason the rotors are warped is because they're about 120,000mi old (as far as I know) and were .... ?abused? by a few (3 or 4) very hard stops from about 70mph within 15min. And because the pads that are on there suck.
Besides .... we haven't gotten any good rains here in Mesa yet .... the "monsoon" season just started yesterday.


Right now I'm trying to figure out what rotors will best suit my needs. I remember reading that most stock brake systems can produce enough clamping/braking force to lock up most (not R comp) tires ... so getting a "big brake kit" is more about image for most cars. Of course the heat dissipation might be better but by how much???

Thanks for agreeing with my faded physics knowledge.

 

One thought just came to me. I get so many car mags every month I'd be embarased to tell you,but one had a good article on rotors. The jist of it was that one of the most important aspects was cryogenic treatment of the rotor. If I remember it was written or at least quoted a respected race car engineer. I'm almost sure there are shops in Phx that can do this.It might be worth while checking out not too expensive iron rotors and getting, the fronts at least, treated.By the way everything I've learned in the last two years points to the fact that cross drilled rotors are actually detrimental.The holes where there in the old days to let the gases generated by the pads escape and not 'float' the pads during heavy applications,modern pads don't do that and the holes tend to propagate surface cracks. Slotted rotors are probably 50/50 slightly beneficial to neutral.