I believe it is a "floating caliper" on 02'-05' the WRX. Only 2 pistons on one side of the caliper that push toward the rotors.

I plan on getting separate rotors for track use to use in combination with track pads.

What lube should be used on the slider pins? Graphite or maybe white lithium grease?

there is a lot of info in this thread now.

thanks

 

If the rotors are resurfaced, have the service remove only a minimal amount as specified in the factory manual. The rotors need to retain a certain minimum thickness for optimum heat dissipation and strength. Not all shops or mobile services will pay attention to the thickness of the rotor and may casually grind away more from the surfaces than is absolutely necessary. You may end up with a beautiful-looking rotor that will run too hot during track days and cause the brake fluid to boil or break down the grease in the front wheel bearings.

I consider the rotors to be throwaway items (or recyclable) if the thickness falls to or below 0.866" as measured by a caliper - a ruler isn't precise enough. The factory specifies 0.945" as the standard value and 0.866" for the service limit for a 2002 WRX rotor thickness.

For the model year 2002 through 2005 WRX, they use a floating caliper as shown sitting on box in pic below. For 2006 through 2007, they switched to a 4-pot (piston) fixed caliper as shown installed on my car, which can also be retrofitted to earlier models. For the new MY2008 WRX, the pictures I've seen once again show a floating caliper, although it might be larger than earlier models.

Is Loctite® white-colored now? The type that could be disassembled with hand tools used to be blue-colored, but would dry out to whitish color.

 

locktite comes in different colors that indicate a different lock strenght, there is red and white red being really really strong and white being strong. the micormeter measures thickness in millimeters and the minimal is stated on the rotor you can take only so much off up to.015 or fifteen thousands to the minimal thickness, in FL the shops must pay attention to the minimal thinkness or its your butt on the line if anything happens.

 

graphite grease works well white lithium will work as well i believe i will have more info on that tomorrow though since i am not 100% sure.....once you have the rotor resurfaced...make sure there is a fine cut done...use a sander or jsut hand snd the surface in a circular patern the rotors were cut with the lathe in a direction....the direction that the pad moves on it...think of a ladder you cant clib up one with vertical rungs can you well pads will slow the rotor down less efficiently with just a resurfaced rotor so sand them to make it an undirectional cut.

 

ok as promised more info today....There are three good kinds of lubes to use one being the best and the other two being good to get the job done but may cause a problem with the rubber sleeve that encompasses the sliding pin.
GRAPHITE or ANIT LOCK- lube is a metalic lube that is great for sliding metal parts and is ok to use on the sliding pins though with old rubber sleeves it will irritate the rubber and make it swell causing the sliding side not to slide or make it very dificult to slide, the same goes for White Lithium, it works well but may cause the rubber sleeves to swell.
THE BEST TO USE ON SLIDING PINS is a silicon lubricant since it will NOT harm the rubber(though it is a good idea to replace them after a while)

White lithium can also melt and get on the rotors so make sure that you dont leave globs of it around the rotor.

 

Even more great info from Sti convert & Wingless Wonder, thanks.

Sti convert, why are you on a subaru forum when you drive a chrysler?
are you an ex subie addict who hangs around the forums? Thanks for the great info though, this will be a good reference for myself and those who search.

Wingless wonder, how do you like those 4 pots? I've been thinking about doing the upgrade. How much larger in circumference are the rotors that go with the calipers, same as the 2002 - 2005 WRX? Any significant weight difference, + or - a pound or two?

 

Use WRX rotor size - rotor replacement unnecessary unless you want/need new ones. I've replaced my rotors with factory-sized replacements, first with DBA one-piece, currently RacingBrake two-piece front rotors.

Have not tracked car with the 4-pots but should be fine. These calipers are more massive than WRX floating caliper. Have not weighed the WRX caliper but 4-pot weighs just over 10 pounds apiece. Figure a couple of pounds heavier than WRX pieces.

4-pots will not fit under OEM 16" WRX wheels or space saver spare tire. Must use aftermarket 17" or earlier 16" Impreza RS wheels.

RacingBrake.com offers their version of 4-pot caliper in aluminum alloy that is much lighter, retains front/rear brake balance, and uses factory pad sizing. Theirs also clears factory WRX wheels. Not inexpensive - pricing falls between the Subaru 4-pots ~$700 and a good big brake kit like the StopTech at around $1600.

If your eventual plans call for stickier tires, more track days, and a true big brake kit, then just skip the 4-pots. Some members have also performed Legacy GT front and rear brake swaps onto the early WRX. Bigger floating calipers and rotors compared with WRX.

 

im a convert lol when i get done with school im going to work with subaru and get an STi i just cant afford it yet they brought an STi into my shop at school and i fell in love and found this site researching the car.

 

if you convert to bigger and better braking systems convert the WHOLE system the stock master cylinder wont really do well with the new calipers.

 

oh yeah i used to only like domestics (though i drive a chrysler its mitsubishi buit...hate that company) so when i saw the sti i changed my mind its so sexy lol love these cars man just never knew it ....sorry for so many psosts im a little um tipsy well a lot tipy

 

axxis pads are noisey thats why he is noticing it more due to the agressive materials used to mfg the pads. dont worry about it.