I've got about 93K on my subie, with minor mods. (exhaust, up pipe, intake, bov) and over the past year I've lost a lot of power and had a constant engine light for High EGT. During the winter months, there is a heavy gas smell inside the car when it starts up. It idles a little high, but comes down after a few minutes. A local shop and I figured out my Wastegate controller is bad (inconsistent boost from 8 lbs to 16lbs and it actually stuck for a little bit), and the turbo probably needs to go.

I also have this stuttering problem when I start out in first gear. The car feels like it's going to stall. The whole car shudders. This scares me the most. I've bought a new timing belt, but haven't replaced it just yet. The book says it's not due for a little bit.

Last thing, and I've experienced this for a while, but it's gotten worse, are low RPM back fires. Since the problem with my boost was identified, and the hi temps in the engine, I've kept it under 3K while driving.

I've been tempted to bring it to the local dealership for service, but I've only heard horrible things, and over the phone they tell me it's the BOV that's causing my problem.

Anybody have/had this problem before? Please, anyone, throw me a bone here.

Thanks.

 

What is the exact EGT code? There are several different EGT-related codes that can be set and they mean different things.
Most likely the code is related to your catless uppipe and does not indicate a high exhaust temperature. When you installed the uppipe what did you do with the factory EGT probe? If the probe was reinstalled into the new uppipe it has probably failed as they usually do after a while in the catless pipes. But this is only speculation until you provide more information, especially the code in Pxxxx format.
As for the gas smell, since you have an 02 you'll probably find the answer here-
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131755
The shuddering in first gear sounds like the well-known clutch shudder issue. Long ago Subaru issued a TSB on this and came out with an updated clutch package to address it. The updated parts consist of a new disc, pressure plate and heavier flywheel. If you want you can have a dealer install these parts, or buy them over the counter and do the work yourself or have a shop do it. Note that a dealer will charge you for this work, it was only done for free during the 3/36 warranty period.
Not sure about your backfires, but you might want to try reinstalling your stock intake and bypass valve, as those aftermarket items have been known to cause problems.

 

Thanks for the info. Here's what I do know. The Engine light was on prior to the switch to the HKS up pipe. I had the car on a dyno and they told me it was running naturally aspirated numbers and only 100 WHP. They were worried, and took the car off the Dyno. I don't remember the exact code. I'll hit Autozone again and right it down. I kinda thought it was my clutch, but everyone said it didn't feel like a clutch slip. Glad to know I was right. Thanks very much, and I'll get back soon with the actual engine code.

jay