Home Theater Setups
Originally Posted by robsrex
It isn't about big Watts...it's about good sound. I'm very happy with my HK reciever.
Single handedly the most important, most overlooked piece in your system is your cables. Video, audio are the most important. Budget 10% of your total cost for cables. It may seem pricey, but it pays off. Monster is ok, again much of the cost for the monster cable is going to thier huge marketing ploy. Check these guys out for great service and super quality cables.
http://www.cobaltcable.com/
Originally Posted by newyorkreload
All my toys are else where as i roam the earth searching for a place to call home. I got a 47" Samsung HDTV at my ex's place cause i'm too lazy to go pick it up just to put it back in storage. and some where in a box are a set of JBL Studio series S-38 for the frount and s-36s for the rear and a Center to match. I sold my 12"sub, DTS 6.1 RXr, my DVD player and my X-box, on my way back to Ca. But i still got a PS2, and it is currently hooked up to my new roomates 19" magnavox with built in DVD.
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Originally Posted by ipozestu
Single handedly the most important, most overlooked piece in your system is your cables. Video, audio are the most important. Budget 10% of your total cost for cables. It may seem pricey, but it pays off. Monster is ok, again much of the cost for the monster cable is going to thier huge marketing ploy. Check these guys out for great service and super quality cables.[/url]
I can understand salespeople when they argue cable quality with component or RCA cables but with a DVI or Fiber cable, wouldn't a cable be a cable since it is processing numbers not signals?
Cable does no have to ability to transfer numbers. It transfers the signal or pulse along a run. It is the components job to decipher this signal decode it to 1's and 0's for processing. The advantages of quality cables for digital applications and toslink is construction, connectivity, shielding, and efficiency.
Construction: You want to buy a quality cable once. It should have heavy solder, sturdy connectors and be heavily jacked for durability. In addition heavier gauge wire is preferred to provide for less resistance in longer runs.
Connectivity: The connectors should fit very tight and allow for the most contact area available. Gold/silver plating is great, it cuts down on corrosion which inhibits signal transfer.
Shielding: When current travels along a path it emits noise. This noise can actually transfer from one cable to another particularly between higher voltage power wires and lower voltage signal wire. Every attempt should be made to keep them separated. In most cases a cross somewhere is inevitable. Proper shielding prevents current noise transfer.
Efficiency: Most OEM cables simply do not use a heavy enough gauge wire to properly and efficiently transfer signals.
As for TOSLINK: It's all about construction and durability. A proper source connection is very important. The input needs to be as parallel as possible to the signal generator. Think of it as a straw in a glass of water. The straw will actually look bent when we know it's straight. Tight fitting metal connectors that do not wear is preferred. Lastly, he fiber needs to be pro protected by a very heavy jacket. Every fiber that breaks is one more portion of a signal lost.
Hope that answers some questions. That'll be five bucks.
Construction: You want to buy a quality cable once. It should have heavy solder, sturdy connectors and be heavily jacked for durability. In addition heavier gauge wire is preferred to provide for less resistance in longer runs.
Connectivity: The connectors should fit very tight and allow for the most contact area available. Gold/silver plating is great, it cuts down on corrosion which inhibits signal transfer.
Shielding: When current travels along a path it emits noise. This noise can actually transfer from one cable to another particularly between higher voltage power wires and lower voltage signal wire. Every attempt should be made to keep them separated. In most cases a cross somewhere is inevitable. Proper shielding prevents current noise transfer.
Efficiency: Most OEM cables simply do not use a heavy enough gauge wire to properly and efficiently transfer signals.
As for TOSLINK: It's all about construction and durability. A proper source connection is very important. The input needs to be as parallel as possible to the signal generator. Think of it as a straw in a glass of water. The straw will actually look bent when we know it's straight. Tight fitting metal connectors that do not wear is preferred. Lastly, he fiber needs to be pro protected by a very heavy jacket. Every fiber that breaks is one more portion of a signal lost.
Hope that answers some questions. That'll be five bucks.
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I have some Definitive technology BP2000TLs for the front with a Infinity kappa Center and Infinity kappa rears all powered by a Sony ES-50 The Defintives and unbelievable with the 15" powered subs in the bottom
Super
Super
When i lived in vallejo I had a cool setup in my room, but now there just isn't any room for it up here, but it works.
yamaha reciever
yamaha equalizer
Sony 5 cd changer
yamaha 8" desktop speakers
I like Yamaha stuff.... I have my Yamaha Bass in the corner also
anyways not bad for a little room.
yamaha reciever
yamaha equalizer
Sony 5 cd changer
yamaha 8" desktop speakers
I like Yamaha stuff.... I have my Yamaha Bass in the corner also
anyways not bad for a little room.
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Originally Posted by ipozestu
...Sony 555-ES receiver processor....
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Originally Posted by illy
Question for you regarding cable quality. With fiber cables or any "digital" cable. If it gets the zeros and ones to the other component correctly, what would the different be between a lower quality and higher quality cable ASSUMING they both made the zeroes and ones move?
I can understand salespeople when they argue cable quality with component or RCA cables but with a DVI or Fiber cable, wouldn't a cable be a cable since it is processing numbers not signals?
I can understand salespeople when they argue cable quality with component or RCA cables but with a DVI or Fiber cable, wouldn't a cable be a cable since it is processing numbers not signals?
the main reason for good quality cables for a digital siginal is to maintain the timing of the sorce. The last thing you want it for a slip to cause a loss of sync for the pic and sound. Makes movies look dubed.
And for analog connections you want a good cabel so you arn't subjected to out side noice like cross talk, it's usely caused by having the cables buntched together with zip ties.
I used cat-5 for my speaker wire cause it's twisted, cansels out any possable noise. Spit the colors and the whites then twist them together. when i plug them in: colors =red, whites = black, turns four solid wires into about 18 gauge cable.
TIP OF THE DAY: for a 9db gain worth of bass place your sub 3-6 inches from a rooms corner. you get a 3db gain per serface. two walls and a floor make 9. enjoy..//NYR
Originally Posted by SuperHawk
I have some Definitive technology BP2000TLs for the front with a Infinity kappa Center and Infinity kappa rears all powered by a Sony ES-50 The Defintives and unbelievable with the 15" powered subs in the bottom
Super
Super
Originally Posted by R4ND0M_AX3
I missed this earlier. I use the same. I have the 555ES mega changer too.
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Originally Posted by ipozestu
Why would you spend all that money on the BP2000TL and compliment (or lack there of) with the Kappa's. Fishy
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Originally Posted by newyorkreload
TIP OF THE DAY: For a 9db gain worth of bass place your sub 3-6 inches from a room's corner. You get a 3dB gain per surface. The two walls and a floor make 9. Enjoy..//NYR
I corrected your spelling and grammar.
Last edited by jvick125; Dec 10, 2005 at 10:29 PM.
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Does anyone have suggestions for some in-ceiling surround speakers?
Room is about 20' wide and 27' long. Half of the length is for the 'living room' ther other half is kitchen in and dining.
I'm looking to prepare for a 7.1 setup so I'm gonna put in four speakers (2 rears and 2 side rears) They'll be wired in a 5.1 setup for now.
I'm not spending more than $500 per pair. 3-4 hundred is more confortable.
Go.
Room is about 20' wide and 27' long. Half of the length is for the 'living room' ther other half is kitchen in and dining.
I'm looking to prepare for a 7.1 setup so I'm gonna put in four speakers (2 rears and 2 side rears) They'll be wired in a 5.1 setup for now.
I'm not spending more than $500 per pair. 3-4 hundred is more confortable.
Go.
Originally Posted by R4ND0M_AX3
Does anyone have suggestions for some in-ceiling surround speakers?
Room is about 20' wide and 27' long. Half of the length is for the 'living room' ther other half is kitchen in and dining.
I'm looking to prepare for a 7.1 setup so I'm gonna put in four speakers (2 rears and 2 side rears) They'll be wired in a 5.1 setup for now.
I'm not spending more than $500 per pair. 3-4 hundred is more confortable.
Go.
Room is about 20' wide and 27' long. Half of the length is for the 'living room' ther other half is kitchen in and dining.
I'm looking to prepare for a 7.1 setup so I'm gonna put in four speakers (2 rears and 2 side rears) They'll be wired in a 5.1 setup for now.
I'm not spending more than $500 per pair. 3-4 hundred is more confortable.
Go.
Last edited by Lowball; Dec 11, 2005 at 07:58 PM.


