Get a DVD player with a HDMI output. Tell the player what HD format you want it to output. I have a sony that was about $200 a while ago. Might be cheaper now.

 

Here ya go, Lowball. This is what my roommate has, it's small, it works and it's awesome. It's $200 + S&H. You can even adjust the sound so that it's perfectly in sync with the video.

oppo OPDV971H
Comparison of the two models



The Remote:

 

the audio sync comment above reminded me about the new HDMI 1.3 spec coming.

http://www.avrev.com/news/0706/06.hdmi13.shtml

 

Yeah I looked at the OPPO unit but just ended up with another samsung today from CC for $100. But I did here good things about the OPPO. I just figured I'll get this cheep one until the HD DVD's go down in price a bit (year or two). The Toshiba HD-A1 was the one I was looking at but $500 shipped just wasn't working right now...plus most places local are sold out and I didn't want to wait a few days for shipping.



I'm a happy camper now 1080i output to the DLP

 

Sweet, sounds like you got a good deal. Let us know how it works. I think my roommate ended up waiting a week or more for the DVD player.

 

quick question.

Are powered subwoofers suppose to have a low hum, when turned on?

I just hooked up a Definitive 8" powered sub and it has a slight hum when on, I can only hear it when nothing else is on, but it still bothers me.

I hooked the ground wires up.

anyways it sounds great when playing.

I have it hooked up with the Direct LFE input to the input labeled sun on teh back of my reciever, harman/kardon avr210.

-----------
The ProSub 80 — The ProSub 80 with an 8" driver, incorporates all the features and technology of the ProSub 200TL.

ProSub 80 Specifications:
Dimensions: 9-1/2" W x 15-1/4" D x 12-1/2" H
Frequency Response: 21 — 150 Hz
Driver Complement: One high-definition 8" driver with polymer cone
Built-in Amplifier: 250 watts RMS
Low Pass Crossover: 24 dB/octave continuously adjustable variable (40 —100 Hz), plus direct LFE input option
High Pass Crossover: 6 dB/octave at 80Hz
Auto On/Off: Signal sensing.
Finish: Black ash or white laminate
Weight: 24 lbs.
Retail: $350 ea.

----------------

 

It's probably because of the wiring in your house or something like that. By powered, you mean the amp is in the sub? it's not powered by a seperate amp?

 

Yes I have to plug it into the wall.

 

You have dirty power. Try disconnecting the ground. If you have it plugged into a powerstrip, unplug it and put it straight into the wall. If that doesn't work, check the cable that plugs into the sub to make sure it isn't running parallel to any other power cables.

 

It seems by your post I don't have a good enviroment for a powered sub. I will try all those things. I have this in my room, so it might be hard to get the shielded audio cable away from all power cords. Thanks for the tips, *starts to move stuff*

And from your respones it's NOT good to have a hum, right? It should be silent until audio plays through it.

 

It must the durdy power. It still hums. I can unplug the shielded cable(which I moved 1' above the other cables like you said) and it still makes the hum with only the amp pluged in.

woe is me. I'm gonna take it back buy something else and see if that works.

 

Hum is bad. Do you have anything else plugged into that plug? If you can, find a plug for ONLY the sub. See if that helps. If not, there is probably not much you can do. You can buy a power conditioner, but in my experience, the ones most people can afford, (or are willing to spend) don't do much.

 

This is an awesome subject, one of my favs..

My system has been punched in the nuts due to a move to and then from Hawaii in '05 and back in '06. I had to give up the Mitsu 55" HD rear projection, but I didn't like it too much anyway. Had plans to upgrade some speakers but had to hold off due to paying off the move... So my system is a real work in progress...

Current system is:

Source/Video/Soundprocessing/Ampflication:

- POS Sony 27" trinitron as a placeholder for a TV that doesn't suck when I can afford it
- Sony 333ES Receiver/Sound processor (same as the 555ES minus the component inputs)
- NHT SA-3 to power the woofers in my front towers
- POS Sony DVD player for movies
- Sony D-555 Discman for CD audio
- xbox w/ xecuter to play vids/music/anything from server
- Sony VCR in my closet in case I should ever need such a thing
- Monster Z series speaker wires for front and center
- Monster NotAsGoodSorryForgotTheName series for rear surrounds
- Monster RCAs and TOSlink cables used (TOSlink to Sony DVD and D-555).

Transducers:

- NHT 2.5i for thr fronts - bi-amped, 333ES powers mid/high, SA-3 powers woofers
- Polk (damn forgot again) center channel till I can find a NHT AC-2
- Boston Acoustic CR-7 rear surrounds
- Cerwin Vega/Infinity custom subwoofer (Cerwin-Vega 300w plate amp and box, Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 sub - too much, breaks windows and stuff)

Also have a APC 1400 supporting this gear which I think is very important. What would be even better would be one of those rack mount Monster Clean Power units. They make a difference and really save your gear.

My goal is to end up with NHT speakers all around. My dream system is 2.9's up front, moving these 2.5i's to the rear as surrounds, picking up the aforementioned AC-2 center channel (missed two on eBay dammit). Failing that a lower grade but still impressive system would be leaving the bi-amp'd 2.5i's up front, getting 1.5's for the rear and an AC-1 center.

I need to replace the sub as it is too much and would be better suited for a large room. Have been looking at NHT SW2-Si on eBay and think a pair of those w/ another SA-3 would be good or just one and a SA-2. Ultimately would like better amplification to the towers in the form of an older Carver amp and using the 333ES as a pre-amp. I really like the user interface on Sony gear though I know it's not the best. An Integra, Denon, or Sunfire reciever would obviously be better but I don't need that now.

Bi-amping speakers that you intend to play loud is key IMHO. When you start asking your power amplifier to make woofer noises and mid/tweet noises at the same time, as power goes up it does both worse and worse. If you get a dedicated amplifier for your woofers and one for your mids/tweets or as I did - use the reciever to power the mids/tweets, as you turn up the volume the sound stays precise and clear until the point where the amps or speakers just give up.

In case it isn't obvious I am a huge fan of NHT gear, specifically the classic FIG units. Klipsch is another fav as their speakers old and new are amazing.

 

I had a house in Sunnyvale that had a really bad hum problem - only obvious with my powered sub. Any time I plugged it in, it would take a second, click on, and then hum - the woofer moving ever so slighly. If you set something on top, it would buzz around..

I clipped off the grounding prong on a spare power cable as a test, and the hum was gone. So I went and got one of those Monster power strips - the cheapest CleanPower unit I could find - I think it was around $65 or so. They have much better ones. This completely cured the hum, and it has not been back since. Highly recommended. Now I power everything off a APC UPS but still use the power conditioning power strip for the components. Hum free since 2001.