blown motor :(((
Did a leak down test yesterday and found that my #2 exhaust valve/valves are leaking. We were able to inflate a rubber glove from the exhaust tip. The exhaust cam gear was also the gear that the timing belt skipped on so this makes sense. What doesn't make sense is when I pulled the motor and then head, those exhaust valves look to be completely straight and it doesn't seem to have any dents or anything on the piston dome. We rOlled then on a flat surface and couldn't see them wobble as well as putting them on a drill. I mean all the tests say that these valves are bent but I just wish it was more obvious. I know they could be ever so slightly bent that it's not visible to the naked eye but it seems with all the noise it was making it would be a little more evident. So I might have my head sent out and get it pressure checked just to make sure nothing else is wrong.
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From: Santa cruz
Car Info: Wrb bugeye
I'm hoping I get some time during the week to take the oil Pan off. I would feel stupid if I had this motor out and didnt check out the bottom end. To check for cracked ringlands I actually have to remove the pistons, right? And am I gonna need a 12pt 12mm, or 14mm for the caps? Could this be the source of all the noise im getting?
I'm hoping I get some time during the week to take the oil Pan off. I would feel stupid if I had this motor out and didnt check out the bottom end. To check for cracked ringlands I actually have to remove the pistons, right? And am I gonna need a 12pt 12mm, or 14mm for the caps? Could this be the source of all the noise im getting?
it could be as tiny as this
you might as well replace your pickup tube too...
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That probably wouldn't show up on a leak down test would it? I don't see much air escaping by that tiny little crack. I'll probably check both of the pistons on that side.iif they are fine then next step is to send my head to get pressure checked and planed, replace the valves, and hope my problem is solved. Looks like I'm gonna end up doing a clutch and a timing belt kit. Oh! And my rear timing cover behind the cam gears cracked so that will need to be replaced too..
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Tomorrow evening I will be Leak testing my other head and pulling all of my pistons. Ive done some searching and it seems like its rather difficult pulling the pistons out. I never knew that you only pull out the domes, and not rod and whole assembly. I've heard from some sites you need a SST to take the clip out of the wristpin, but then others say you only need needle nose pliers? Anyway, if anyone has taken their pistons out this way and would like to offer some insight that would be appreciated lol.
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here is a great description of how to do it. the blocks are essentially the same.
Disassemble the OEM Shortblock - Subaru Impreza WRX STI Forums: IWSTI.com
no SST tools needed really, just go slow. the clips aren't too hard, but you will need a good pair of needlenose pliers that won't bend when you squeeze.
biggest issue imo is having the connecting rod drop from the piston once you remove the wristpin and hit the cylinder wall. the slower you go the better.
and don't forget to label everything.
Disassemble the OEM Shortblock - Subaru Impreza WRX STI Forums: IWSTI.com
no SST tools needed really, just go slow. the clips aren't too hard, but you will need a good pair of needlenose pliers that won't bend when you squeeze.
biggest issue imo is having the connecting rod drop from the piston once you remove the wristpin and hit the cylinder wall. the slower you go the better.
and don't forget to label everything.
here is a great description of how to do it. the blocks are essentially the same.
Disassemble the OEM Shortblock - Subaru Impreza WRX STI Forums: IWSTI.com
Disassemble the OEM Shortblock - Subaru Impreza WRX STI Forums: IWSTI.com
I used that guide to take my first block apart, it helped alot
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From: Santa cruz
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I haven't gotten to work on it in a few days but I'm at the point of accepting defeat.I'm just gonna take of the oil pan and see what I can see. If I can't see anything then I'm not gonna take it any further, I need to get my car back on the road. I just really don't have the time to take my block apar and rebuild the whole thing. It frustrates me that I can't find the problem when i thought we had it figured out. Looks like I'll be buyin a new motor 
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Ideally I'd like to just do a shortblock and have my heads checked at a machine shop but I'm not convinced that my heads are ok because I think I might have samaged the Avcs... Sadness
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Bummer about your motor... Mine went at 75k n Paul at fw hooked me up with a new short block and I re did the heads , x2 on check the oil pickup tube mine was cracked.
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Just an update, I went ahead and bought a brand new shortblock from Lasher Subaru along with a water pump, clutch disk, and overhaul gasket kit. I went through my work for the Gates timing belt component kit, and sent my heads to Poor Boys in Sacramento for the pressure/vacuum test and resurface. The only thing i need now is the driver side rear timing cover, so if anyone has one layin around let me know. Other than that, sunday will be the day i put everything around the shortblock and drop it back in. If i can get that rear timing cover by then, I'll have it running that day, if not i'll have to wait till Subaru gets the part in.
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good choice on getting a new stock block!
my 2 cents: get a break-in map from any reputable tuner in the greater sac area. once the block is nice and broken in have that same tuner give you a nice, safe tune.
i can't stress enough about the importance of a good tune.
good luck man,
my 2 cents: get a break-in map from any reputable tuner in the greater sac area. once the block is nice and broken in have that same tuner give you a nice, safe tune.
i can't stress enough about the importance of a good tune.
good luck man,