Oh god... You're actually running the softer springs in the back?! Why? I thought you said you wanted the car to rotate.

 

Where do you think the majority of weight is in the car?

 

This.

Thus the bigger bar.

 

In the front. Like all of our cars.

Being stiffer in the front, softer in the rear will net more understeer.

Yeah, the initial turn-in will be crisp. But through the turn, the front tires will not have as much grip as the rear tires. You would need to massively transfer weight to the front to get grip out of the rear and get the car to rotate while simultaneously not overloading the front tires.

So you're going to have bars making up for the springs. Why not have both systems doing the same thing?

 

The strut bodies were valved for 7k and 5k respectively. When I contacted Feal about respring/revalve, they said I can go about +/- 2k before needing a revalve. 9k/6k would probably have been better based on weight distribution, but a stiffer rear with a bigger rear bar would give just enough oversteer bias.

Besides, I'm not trying to build a drift car.

 

If you can do +/- 2k, why not try 5/7?

I don't think anyone is trying to build a drift Subaru. I've known of 2 other GGs that have run either 7/9 and 5/7 with good results. Although my chassis is a little different, I'm also running stiffer springs and bar in the rear. I've done this on both of my cars.

Early on in the development of the old car, I had one complaint from a driver who normally drives RWD telling me that my car was too tail happy. To get that response about a car that typically suffers from massive understeer, I felt accomplished.

 

The car, currently with 7k/5k springs, doesn't suffer from massive understeer. It only understeers when overcooking a corner. If I had to estimate it, it's only ever so slightly on the understeer side of neutral.

Going from 7k/5k to 9k/7k accomplishes everything I intended: (A) changes spring rates within the window of change in which I don't need to send the coilovers out for a revalve, (B) results in a net increase in rear spring stiffness compared to the front to help the car rotate a bit more easily, and (C) decreases body roll.

You just said so yourself "I've known of 2 other GGs that have run either 9/7 or 7/5 with good results." While entirely subjective, how many GGs have you seen/known to have "good results" running stiffer rear springs? Using GRs as a comparison to GGs is pretty much apples to water bottles.

 

I wrote my numbers backwards...

 

God. Dammit.

 

 

I know...

 

Springs are in and reinstalled the rear camber bolts para no mas poke. Needs alignments. lol

 

Only update/change is swapping the Apexi GT spec for an Invidia Q300. For those counting that was about 3 months. The GT Spec was nice and sav, but just a bit loud. The Q300 is super mellow at idle and cruise, but nice and loud when you get in it.

With autocross coming up, I figured it was time per usual to cram as many mods as I can in to the 3 weeks. Coming up:
IAG Street series AOS to replace the GrimmSpeed unit--hoping to address a consumption issue with a better AOS for my application
Koyo radiator--been needing to do this and figure with the AOS install is as good a time as any
STi lateral links--never really fell in love with the adjustable ones and don't need *that* much camber in the rear
Whiteline 27 mm sway bars with adjustable lateral links--continued purge of Perrin products from the car plus the added bonus of being able to conrner balance in the future

 

3 months with one exhaust? That's nearly a lifetime for you!

 

puuuuuurge


Again, I ****ing forgot the radiator shroud at home when we went to the cabin this weekend and went shooting