jdblock's track project
12-16-2011, 10:42 PM
#49
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: norcal
Posts: 888
Car Info: 2004 STI
I went on a shopping spree today.
Dropped by and said hello to Noah and Adam at LIC Motorsports. I kept chamfering my $300+ brake pads due to knock-back, and was only getting a half life out of them. i picked up some '05+ knuckles moddified to work with '04STi struts and also WRX struts.
These will pay for themselves with the way I was going through brake pads, and also by not having to change the wheel bearings as often.
I've also have been giving safety a thought and jumped at a HANS device the guys had in stock.
I also mentioned I need a turbo inlet and Noah brings this out to me...
...most likely the last APS turbo inlet still sealed in it's factory box.
Well it isn't anymore.
I also took a trip to GST Motorsports and picked up a set of Deatschworks 850cc sidefeed injectors. These were basicly fitted and then his customer decided to go with E-85, so these were taken out since they wouldn't work with the turbo being used. I got a great deal on these. Thank you Mike.
Dropped by and said hello to Noah and Adam at LIC Motorsports. I kept chamfering my $300+ brake pads due to knock-back, and was only getting a half life out of them. i picked up some '05+ knuckles moddified to work with '04STi struts and also WRX struts.
These will pay for themselves with the way I was going through brake pads, and also by not having to change the wheel bearings as often.
I've also have been giving safety a thought and jumped at a HANS device the guys had in stock.
I also mentioned I need a turbo inlet and Noah brings this out to me...
...most likely the last APS turbo inlet still sealed in it's factory box.
Well it isn't anymore.
I also took a trip to GST Motorsports and picked up a set of Deatschworks 850cc sidefeed injectors. These were basicly fitted and then his customer decided to go with E-85, so these were taken out since they wouldn't work with the turbo being used. I got a great deal on these. Thank you Mike.
01-29-2012, 09:16 PM
#56
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: norcal
Posts: 888
Car Info: 2004 STI
APS turbo inlet and 850cc injectors are installed.
After installing the parts and scaling the injectors I had tons of white "smoke" coming out of the exhaust. Didn't smell like anything and a clean napkin held behind the tailpipe only netted watter droplets. I quickly ran a compression check and a coolant system pressure check to look for anything abnormal, all tests checked out as good. Compression was even on all 4 cylinders at 120 and nothing wrong with either cooling system tests I ran. This got me really scratching my head cause I was expecting a bad headgasket after seeing all the smoke that was coming out of the tailpipe.
So after running the tests I took off the intercooler to inspect everything I had done. I saw that the head breather tube connected to the IC was full of that yellow oil sludge and water condensation was dripping out of the tube. I originally deleted my catch can after installing the turbo inlet 'cause the APS kit ties both breather systems to one line. So I re-installed the intercooler and re-installed the catch can and started the car. All the "smoke" from the tailpipe was gone instantly.
This is a picture of the tailpipe after re-installing the catch can. It is still smoking but I expect some water vapor to get past the catch can. You can see how wet the ground is behind the tailpipe.
I have to go take the car for a long drive and get the oil hot so the water vapor can get out of my crank case and I should change the oil afterwards. I'll also keep a steady eye on the catch can as I'm sure it's going to fill-up quickly with water and oil sludge.
Was a messed up experience and I'm glad it isn't something worse. I think it got this way cause I did the install a few days ago on a rainy day, and the warm engine sucked in moisture while it was cooling down. I will most likely get another catch can for the PCV system to keep the intake free from contamination.
After installing the parts and scaling the injectors I had tons of white "smoke" coming out of the exhaust. Didn't smell like anything and a clean napkin held behind the tailpipe only netted watter droplets. I quickly ran a compression check and a coolant system pressure check to look for anything abnormal, all tests checked out as good. Compression was even on all 4 cylinders at 120 and nothing wrong with either cooling system tests I ran. This got me really scratching my head cause I was expecting a bad headgasket after seeing all the smoke that was coming out of the tailpipe.
So after running the tests I took off the intercooler to inspect everything I had done. I saw that the head breather tube connected to the IC was full of that yellow oil sludge and water condensation was dripping out of the tube. I originally deleted my catch can after installing the turbo inlet 'cause the APS kit ties both breather systems to one line. So I re-installed the intercooler and re-installed the catch can and started the car. All the "smoke" from the tailpipe was gone instantly.
This is a picture of the tailpipe after re-installing the catch can. It is still smoking but I expect some water vapor to get past the catch can. You can see how wet the ground is behind the tailpipe.
I have to go take the car for a long drive and get the oil hot so the water vapor can get out of my crank case and I should change the oil afterwards. I'll also keep a steady eye on the catch can as I'm sure it's going to fill-up quickly with water and oil sludge.
Was a messed up experience and I'm glad it isn't something worse. I think it got this way cause I did the install a few days ago on a rainy day, and the warm engine sucked in moisture while it was cooling down. I will most likely get another catch can for the PCV system to keep the intake free from contamination.
Last edited by jdblock; 01-30-2012 at 07:14 AM.
03-03-2013, 09:10 PM
#59
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: norcal
Posts: 888
Car Info: 2004 STI
Been a while since I've updated this thread. After I gave up the idea of 600 hp, I've been taking it easy on the mods. I like driving the car in the canyons, and I really don't need any more power, the car is crazy with the suspension it has already.
Went with a GR TMIC.
GR STI TMIC
Just installed an Element Tuning downpipe.
It's been a year since I was stage 2. I forgot how it felt.
Went with a GR TMIC.
GR STI TMIC
Just installed an Element Tuning downpipe.
It's been a year since I was stage 2. I forgot how it felt.
03-04-2013, 01:40 PM
#60
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: norcal
Posts: 888
Car Info: 2004 STI
I found a good deal on this analog gauge, and was forced to find a way on how to use it for logging. The digital gauges are the most popular in the Subaru community because that's what Cobb advertises will work with ATR. I really don't like digital gauges, I'd rather see the sweep of a needle than a bunch of numbers flashing in front of me.
Please don't mind the dust, my car is filthy right now after working on it.
This is the wiring going to, and from the gauge.
There are;
-the wires going to the wideband sensor. The bundle with the black sheathing.
-the wires powering the gauge and sensor. The pink, red, grey and black wires.
-the wires used for logging. The brown and white wires that are twisted together.
The power wires are tapped into the clock's power supply. Normal for a lot of gauge installs. You can also see where I put the extra length of wire coming from the sensor (black bundle in the back), for a cleaner install, AEM gives quite a long lead for the sensor.
What I needed to do, to be able to log with Cobb's ATR, is connect the brown and white wires to use a 0-5v input to the ECU. I had thought about using the rear O2 sensor wiring, but that's a 0-1.25v circuit and wouldn't work. Searching the web I found an obscure reference about using the TGV position sensor wiring (1). This can work if you have done TGV deletes. And I have. So the search was on to find out if anyone else had done the same. I found what I needed on the Romraider website (2), very clear instructions on the connections I needed to make.
This is where the plug is found.
This is what the plug looks like. You can see there are three wires, the red wire powers the TGV position sensor, we already have power coming from the clock so the red wire is capped off and not used.
As you can see I clipped the plug off, but you don't need to, there are other ways of tapping into the wires. Ideally, I would like to get a plug with both male and female sides so I can disconnect the wiring if I ever need to remove the engine.
The two wires I needed were;
-the black* TGV position sensor ground for the AEM's brown output wire
-the yellow* TGV position sensor wire for the AEM's white output wire
*the wiring to the right TGV position sensor might be different colors
So after having everything connected for the wideband, and installing my downpipe, I was able to add the "TGV voltage left" to my dashboard and log list. Using a scale provided by AEM for votage-to-AFR (3), I can now log the analog gauge with ATR. There may be a way to use a conversion in the final logs, but I haven't gotten that far yet. I actually don't think I'll bother because I actually like just seeing the voltage. 3.12v=14.7 AFR. Higher voltage is leaner, lower voltage is richer. I will be logging the front O2 and the "wideband" in closed loop to see if there is any variance to what AEM's conversion scale is. So far it's been within 0.1v.
With this set up, I don't even need to bring my laptop with me to log, I can do it all right on the Cobb AP!!!
Overall I'm happy with how things turned out and I can't wait to start tuning and make the switch to E85.
1-Lance Lucas at NASIOC
COBB Tuning AccessPORT + 2L Speed Density + 2004 WRX Wagon = 500whp - NASIOC
2-dschultz at Romraider.com
RomRaider • View topic - Wideband VOUT logging via TGV position sensor input
3-found on the "instruction" link at http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideba...2hjd1vi60qhho0
Please don't mind the dust, my car is filthy right now after working on it.
This is the wiring going to, and from the gauge.
There are;
-the wires going to the wideband sensor. The bundle with the black sheathing.
-the wires powering the gauge and sensor. The pink, red, grey and black wires.
-the wires used for logging. The brown and white wires that are twisted together.
The power wires are tapped into the clock's power supply. Normal for a lot of gauge installs. You can also see where I put the extra length of wire coming from the sensor (black bundle in the back), for a cleaner install, AEM gives quite a long lead for the sensor.
What I needed to do, to be able to log with Cobb's ATR, is connect the brown and white wires to use a 0-5v input to the ECU. I had thought about using the rear O2 sensor wiring, but that's a 0-1.25v circuit and wouldn't work. Searching the web I found an obscure reference about using the TGV position sensor wiring (1). This can work if you have done TGV deletes. And I have. So the search was on to find out if anyone else had done the same. I found what I needed on the Romraider website (2), very clear instructions on the connections I needed to make.
This is where the plug is found.
This is what the plug looks like. You can see there are three wires, the red wire powers the TGV position sensor, we already have power coming from the clock so the red wire is capped off and not used.
As you can see I clipped the plug off, but you don't need to, there are other ways of tapping into the wires. Ideally, I would like to get a plug with both male and female sides so I can disconnect the wiring if I ever need to remove the engine.
The two wires I needed were;
-the black* TGV position sensor ground for the AEM's brown output wire
-the yellow* TGV position sensor wire for the AEM's white output wire
*the wiring to the right TGV position sensor might be different colors
So after having everything connected for the wideband, and installing my downpipe, I was able to add the "TGV voltage left" to my dashboard and log list. Using a scale provided by AEM for votage-to-AFR (3), I can now log the analog gauge with ATR. There may be a way to use a conversion in the final logs, but I haven't gotten that far yet. I actually don't think I'll bother because I actually like just seeing the voltage. 3.12v=14.7 AFR. Higher voltage is leaner, lower voltage is richer. I will be logging the front O2 and the "wideband" in closed loop to see if there is any variance to what AEM's conversion scale is. So far it's been within 0.1v.
With this set up, I don't even need to bring my laptop with me to log, I can do it all right on the Cobb AP!!!
Overall I'm happy with how things turned out and I can't wait to start tuning and make the switch to E85.
1-Lance Lucas at NASIOC
COBB Tuning AccessPORT + 2L Speed Density + 2004 WRX Wagon = 500whp - NASIOC
2-dschultz at Romraider.com
RomRaider • View topic - Wideband VOUT logging via TGV position sensor input
3-found on the "instruction" link at http://www.aemelectronics.com/wideba...2hjd1vi60qhho0
Last edited by jdblock; 03-04-2013 at 02:08 PM.