waterspots?
04-19-2003, 10:17 AM
#3
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iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Lawrence, Kansas
Posts: 1,644
Car Info: 19' Impreza Sport Manual / 99 Miata / 13' OB
What I think you may be seeing is the paint has been etched buy the rain. If you live in an industrial area that has acid rain that has a high acidity this can happen. If it rains and you let the car dry on it's own, as the rain drops dry and the water evaporates the acidity concentrates in the water. At the edges of the drop it will actually etch the paint. This is why it's a good idea to rinse off a car after it rains w/ some clean water. Or better yet keep it in a garage. Sometimes a light polish can take the marks out sometimes not depending on how deep the etching is. I used to live in Jersey and this was always a big problem I had.
Peaty
Peaty
04-19-2003, 10:23 AM
#4
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iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Lawrence, Kansas
Posts: 1,644
Car Info: 19' Impreza Sport Manual / 99 Miata / 13' OB
Forgot to add this:
http://www.3m.com/us/auto_marine_aer...acidspot.jhtml
and this:
What is acid rain?
Emissions from chemical plants, fossil fuel burning power plants, and the internal combustion engine are transported and altered in our atmosphere.
When deposited onto your car's surface in a dry state if may seem like simple dust but mix it with a little bit of dew, sprinklers, or rainfall, and you now have a mixture of sulfuric acid on your paint finish. Left on the surface for any period of time, and especially if placed in the direct sunlight, you now have etching on your paint finish. Typical acid rain damage may first look like water droplets which have dried on the paint and caused discoloration. In some cases, damage appears as a white ring with a dull center. Severe cases show pitting.
http://www.3m.com/us/auto_marine_aer...acidspot.jhtml
and this:
What is acid rain?
Emissions from chemical plants, fossil fuel burning power plants, and the internal combustion engine are transported and altered in our atmosphere.
When deposited onto your car's surface in a dry state if may seem like simple dust but mix it with a little bit of dew, sprinklers, or rainfall, and you now have a mixture of sulfuric acid on your paint finish. Left on the surface for any period of time, and especially if placed in the direct sunlight, you now have etching on your paint finish. Typical acid rain damage may first look like water droplets which have dried on the paint and caused discoloration. In some cases, damage appears as a white ring with a dull center. Severe cases show pitting.
04-19-2003, 06:21 PM
#5
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Posts: n/a
What I used to get my waterspots off are...
3M Finish-It III rubbing compound
and
3M Imperial Hand Glaze
The rubbing compound is so finely grained that it doesn't leave swirl marks and you can really feel how clean the surface is after. It squeaks nicely. The Imperial Hand Glaze is a GREAT follower, it brings out depth in white paint, and if you talk to any painter who knows his stuff, he'll tell you that white is the hardest to bring depth out in.
We have horrible water out here in Southern California with tons of crap in it. I do the rubbing compound once a year and the hand glaze every six months. If you use the Hand Glaze, you apply it with an orbital buffer, wait until it hazes and wipe off. Do only small sections at a time because if you do the whole car, you'll have a nasty looking car as this stuff is hard as hell to get off if you let it sit! Doing the small sections should take only a couple of minutes including application, buffing, and wiping away.
Remember, DON'T LEAVE THIS STUFF ON YOUR CAR!
3M Finish-It III rubbing compound
and
3M Imperial Hand Glaze
The rubbing compound is so finely grained that it doesn't leave swirl marks and you can really feel how clean the surface is after. It squeaks nicely. The Imperial Hand Glaze is a GREAT follower, it brings out depth in white paint, and if you talk to any painter who knows his stuff, he'll tell you that white is the hardest to bring depth out in.
We have horrible water out here in Southern California with tons of crap in it. I do the rubbing compound once a year and the hand glaze every six months. If you use the Hand Glaze, you apply it with an orbital buffer, wait until it hazes and wipe off. Do only small sections at a time because if you do the whole car, you'll have a nasty looking car as this stuff is hard as hell to get off if you let it sit! Doing the small sections should take only a couple of minutes including application, buffing, and wiping away.
Remember, DON'T LEAVE THIS STUFF ON YOUR CAR!
04-22-2003, 03:57 AM
#6
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Posts: n/a
thanks guys!
yeah, i noticed some white etched into the paint.
It's not that noticeble now, but i'll definetly try not to drive in the rain now... i live in california also.
hey firedog, the 3M stuff sounds pertty cool. What kind of hand orbital buffer do you use? , I've never used one before but i want to look into it... i'm figuring applying 3m by hand would run into some problems as it settles in pertty quickly, eh?
yeah, i noticed some white etched into the paint.
It's not that noticeble now, but i'll definetly try not to drive in the rain now... i live in california also.
hey firedog, the 3M stuff sounds pertty cool. What kind of hand orbital buffer do you use? , I've never used one before but i want to look into it... i'm figuring applying 3m by hand would run into some problems as it settles in pertty quickly, eh?
04-22-2003, 08:49 PM
#7
Guest
Posts: n/a
I just have a little 5 inch orbital from Sears, $14. The stuff just sets real fast and real hard. I can do two cars in 1.5 hours from top to bottom with washing included. It's not that I'm that good, it sets that fast. As soon as it hazes, wipe it! Remember too, you don't need to put weight into the buffer.
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