Staging Brake for Subaru's
#31
I just realized something. See bold above^^^. You really need to do more research into what you are wanting to do. 1,000cc injectors on E85?? EBC and a turbo timer? what will you use for engine management? or did you expect your stock ecu to be able to control injectors that large?
I am just saying.......
Welcome to reality
I am just saying.......
Welcome to reality
#33
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Livermore
Posts: 2,127
Car Info: LUMPY CGM 05 WRX
You guys are mean. He was just looking for the cost and manufacturer on a part he is no where near ready to buy.....
I am playing by the way. Good luck and I wish you the best.
I have the same opinion I think you are on the wrong platform. Why put 45k into an 08 WRX when you could source a supra for like 22k and import parts from JAPAN!!!!<<<<<notice the F&F refrence.....
I am playing by the way. Good luck and I wish you the best.
I have the same opinion I think you are on the wrong platform. Why put 45k into an 08 WRX when you could source a supra for like 22k and import parts from JAPAN!!!!<<<<<notice the F&F refrence.....
#34
VIP Member
iTrader: (38)
You guys are mean. He was just looking for the cost and manufacturer on a part he is no where near ready to buy.....
I am playing by the way. Good luck and I wish you the best.
I have the same opinion I think you are on the wrong platform. Why put 45k into an 08 WRX when you could source a supra for like 22k and import parts from JAPAN!!!!<<<<<notice the F&F refrence.....
I am playing by the way. Good luck and I wish you the best.
I have the same opinion I think you are on the wrong platform. Why put 45k into an 08 WRX when you could source a supra for like 22k and import parts from JAPAN!!!!<<<<<notice the F&F refrence.....
were not mean just realist and I am playing too. I am sitting on a ticking time bomb by running a nice size rotated kit on a stock EJ257. Oh but it is sweet sitting in a GC chassis
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 26
Car Info: 2008 Subaru WRX Sedan
Yea lance told me his runs a 9.71 on his E85 race tune. Call him up if u want to know the details, its not my car. Hit him up though hes always up for talkin to his friends on island. If yall say ill never hit 800hp then how much can i realistically push reliably. Im going to do a PPG transmission for sure probably a 5 speed with straight cut gears (hopefully sequential), a cosworth longblock *i will bore it out and sleeve it bigger if i need to. Im not really worried about the cost but i dont want to over pay.
#36
reliability depends on alot of things. one thing to remember once you make all the power you can and do a ppg box, you still have the rear and center diff and axles to worry about.
just remember one thing this isnt going to be anywhere near cheap when said and done you will be throwing at least 30k at this car to make the power you want.
shiet the cosworth longblock is half of that alone
just remember one thing this isnt going to be anywhere near cheap when said and done you will be throwing at least 30k at this car to make the power you want.
shiet the cosworth longblock is half of that alone
#37
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Livermore
Posts: 2,127
Car Info: LUMPY CGM 05 WRX
Depending on what tires you are looking at size wise you may have to look at upgraded axles as well.
Also taling about the 5 speed and ppg gears dogbox whatever drag racing over 600hp its not the gears that will go but case flex on the tranny.
You will probably need a 6 speed to reduce flex with gears. If you are going to go that route get the 5 speed ratio installed on the 6 speed. Clutch is going to be an issue as well.
Motor wise cosworth logblock sleeved bored ok but you are going to need a huge fuel system, and e-85 may not be your answer you might want to look at like v-16 or whatever.
The size of the turbo you will need to make that power will be so unbelievably laggy you may run crap 1/4 mile times becasue you are going to make that power at the top of your rev range and wont hold it long.
Maybe it can be done and you would have the awesomest subie drag car out there but its not going to be cheap to get there.
Just food for thought. Now I think if you can drive and have the car set up right you may well run low 10's high 11's on less or even less with a lower hp less laggy setup. like say 450-500 WHP and now that is possible and can be done way less expensively.
Also taling about the 5 speed and ppg gears dogbox whatever drag racing over 600hp its not the gears that will go but case flex on the tranny.
You will probably need a 6 speed to reduce flex with gears. If you are going to go that route get the 5 speed ratio installed on the 6 speed. Clutch is going to be an issue as well.
Motor wise cosworth logblock sleeved bored ok but you are going to need a huge fuel system, and e-85 may not be your answer you might want to look at like v-16 or whatever.
The size of the turbo you will need to make that power will be so unbelievably laggy you may run crap 1/4 mile times becasue you are going to make that power at the top of your rev range and wont hold it long.
Maybe it can be done and you would have the awesomest subie drag car out there but its not going to be cheap to get there.
Just food for thought. Now I think if you can drive and have the car set up right you may well run low 10's high 11's on less or even less with a lower hp less laggy setup. like say 450-500 WHP and now that is possible and can be done way less expensively.
#38
banned
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: 2006 Zero/sports Widebody
Posts: 1,669
Car Info: 500+ whp Club
To the Op
Expect to put down over 35k if you want what you are talking about parts wise. But dont be thinking your going to get your whp numbers. What you want is about what I have. But I'm not running e85
I'm in the 480 to 560+whp range. On a dyno that reads 210 for a stock STi. Car is in the shop right now rebuilding the clutch and Sti 6 spd.
As far as DD, My car can pull that. One thing I would frown apon. Buy a cosworth and leave it alone. Your not going to do anything buy mess up a great motor.
Expect to put down over 35k if you want what you are talking about parts wise. But dont be thinking your going to get your whp numbers. What you want is about what I have. But I'm not running e85
I'm in the 480 to 560+whp range. On a dyno that reads 210 for a stock STi. Car is in the shop right now rebuilding the clutch and Sti 6 spd.
As far as DD, My car can pull that. One thing I would frown apon. Buy a cosworth and leave it alone. Your not going to do anything buy mess up a great motor.
Last edited by old.guy; 09-22-2011 at 11:32 PM.
#41
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Ice Palace...not the meth lab, the skating rink.
Posts: 965
Car Info: 1995 dodge neon
My 07 has like 40k in upgrades and is only at 500whp. (on 92 octane, could maybe do 700 with the right fuel and larger injectors)
Btw, it idles like ****, stalls occasionally, makes fu(ked up noises, and has been through 3 clutches in 1000 miles...2 were twin disc.
Stock fuel lines and 1000cc injectors will not get you past 450whp, even with 2 walbro pumps.
Once you get in the 500whp range in a suby...nothing is reliable. Camshafts can snap, a bad spray of fuel and you can potentially flat spot a rod bearing or break piston. A trans case bolt can stretch too much and shear off 2nd gear destroying your freshly built 8k tranny.
You have to be willing to buy expensive parts, rebuild trans, or engine every other weekend if necessary.
Be prepaired for your entire car to sometimes slide sideways halfway into the next lane when shifting full throttle into 3rd gear.
Differentials loaded up a certian way, the correct temp. and a little wheel spin on certain surfaces can rotate your car sideways faster than you can blink.
Subarus are rather predictable with 300whp, fun to drive.
Throw in some wider stickier tires, another couple hundred horses, some unsprung clutch discs, torsionally flexy axles, and a stiff body. This is where all that grip and control are no longer anticipated, guaranteed, or easily controlled. It is a whole new game, and now you actually have to know what all of those ***** on your fancy suspension do. You will need to adjust spring rates, compression and rebound dampening depending on road temp and surface type.
It isnt as simple as the rear tires always spin and you have to control the oversteer.
Oversteer and understeer like to randomly pick a leeding role based upon body roll and whitch tire rolled across a little oil in the parking lot last night.
I have been driving high hp subarus for 10 years now...and sometimes it is still unpredictable and scares the shipoop out of me.
If you plan on actually driving your car, buy a GtR or something...it is cheaper.
Btw, it idles like ****, stalls occasionally, makes fu(ked up noises, and has been through 3 clutches in 1000 miles...2 were twin disc.
Stock fuel lines and 1000cc injectors will not get you past 450whp, even with 2 walbro pumps.
Once you get in the 500whp range in a suby...nothing is reliable. Camshafts can snap, a bad spray of fuel and you can potentially flat spot a rod bearing or break piston. A trans case bolt can stretch too much and shear off 2nd gear destroying your freshly built 8k tranny.
You have to be willing to buy expensive parts, rebuild trans, or engine every other weekend if necessary.
Be prepaired for your entire car to sometimes slide sideways halfway into the next lane when shifting full throttle into 3rd gear.
Differentials loaded up a certian way, the correct temp. and a little wheel spin on certain surfaces can rotate your car sideways faster than you can blink.
Subarus are rather predictable with 300whp, fun to drive.
Throw in some wider stickier tires, another couple hundred horses, some unsprung clutch discs, torsionally flexy axles, and a stiff body. This is where all that grip and control are no longer anticipated, guaranteed, or easily controlled. It is a whole new game, and now you actually have to know what all of those ***** on your fancy suspension do. You will need to adjust spring rates, compression and rebound dampening depending on road temp and surface type.
It isnt as simple as the rear tires always spin and you have to control the oversteer.
Oversteer and understeer like to randomly pick a leeding role based upon body roll and whitch tire rolled across a little oil in the parking lot last night.
I have been driving high hp subarus for 10 years now...and sometimes it is still unpredictable and scares the shipoop out of me.
If you plan on actually driving your car, buy a GtR or something...it is cheaper.
#42
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Livermore
Posts: 2,127
Car Info: LUMPY CGM 05 WRX
My 07 has like 40k in upgrades and is only at 500whp. (on 92 octane, could maybe do 700 with the right fuel and larger injectors)
Btw, it idles like ****, stalls occasionally, makes fu(ked up noises, and has been through 3 clutches in 1000 miles...2 were twin disc.
Stock fuel lines and 1000cc injectors will not get you past 450whp, even with 2 walbro pumps.
Once you get in the 500whp range in a suby...nothing is reliable. Camshafts can snap, a bad spray of fuel and you can potentially flat spot a rod bearing or break piston. A trans case bolt can stretch too much and shear off 2nd gear destroying your freshly built 8k tranny.
You have to be willing to buy expensive parts, rebuild trans, or engine every other weekend if necessary.
Be prepaired for your entire car to sometimes slide sideways halfway into the next lane when shifting full throttle into 3rd gear.
Differentials loaded up a certian way, the correct temp. and a little wheel spin on certain surfaces can rotate your car sideways faster than you can blink.
Subarus are rather predictable with 300whp, fun to drive.
Throw in some wider stickier tires, another couple hundred horses, some unsprung clutch discs, torsionally flexy axles, and a stiff body. This is where all that grip and control are no longer anticipated, guaranteed, or easily controlled. It is a whole new game, and now you actually have to know what all of those ***** on your fancy suspension do. You will need to adjust spring rates, compression and rebound dampening depending on road temp and surface type.
It isnt as simple as the rear tires always spin and you have to control the oversteer.
Oversteer and understeer like to randomly pick a leeding role based upon body roll and whitch tire rolled across a little oil in the parking lot last night.
I have been driving high hp subarus for 10 years now...and sometimes it is still unpredictable and scares the shipoop out of me.
If you plan on actually driving your car, buy a GtR or something...it is cheaper.
Btw, it idles like ****, stalls occasionally, makes fu(ked up noises, and has been through 3 clutches in 1000 miles...2 were twin disc.
Stock fuel lines and 1000cc injectors will not get you past 450whp, even with 2 walbro pumps.
Once you get in the 500whp range in a suby...nothing is reliable. Camshafts can snap, a bad spray of fuel and you can potentially flat spot a rod bearing or break piston. A trans case bolt can stretch too much and shear off 2nd gear destroying your freshly built 8k tranny.
You have to be willing to buy expensive parts, rebuild trans, or engine every other weekend if necessary.
Be prepaired for your entire car to sometimes slide sideways halfway into the next lane when shifting full throttle into 3rd gear.
Differentials loaded up a certian way, the correct temp. and a little wheel spin on certain surfaces can rotate your car sideways faster than you can blink.
Subarus are rather predictable with 300whp, fun to drive.
Throw in some wider stickier tires, another couple hundred horses, some unsprung clutch discs, torsionally flexy axles, and a stiff body. This is where all that grip and control are no longer anticipated, guaranteed, or easily controlled. It is a whole new game, and now you actually have to know what all of those ***** on your fancy suspension do. You will need to adjust spring rates, compression and rebound dampening depending on road temp and surface type.
It isnt as simple as the rear tires always spin and you have to control the oversteer.
Oversteer and understeer like to randomly pick a leeding role based upon body roll and whitch tire rolled across a little oil in the parking lot last night.
I have been driving high hp subarus for 10 years now...and sometimes it is still unpredictable and scares the shipoop out of me.
If you plan on actually driving your car, buy a GtR or something...it is cheaper.
LOL this is a great description of what driving a 500+ hp suby is like.
My buddy let me rip in his 500+ whp Evo.......Completely different story....I think it has somthing to do with the fact that the AWD does not work as well.
#43
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 26
Car Info: 2008 Subaru WRX Sedan
thanks for everyone for doggin on me. i wasnt aware that evo's usually put out more power than wrx's like i said im new to this. if i dont hit 800 then thats fine. it was just my goal. that is the funniest description of driving a high wheel hp subie. Lance let me drive his once. i think it would take a while to get to know it but it does sound like fun. either way im still gonna build it up as fast as i can make it. if yall are sayin that 500 is a realistic achievable goal than thats my new goal. too easy. im not tryin to be difficult to work with it just seems like everyones got everyones got jokes and not too many of yall got suggestions. to those of yall who gave advice, thanks and i will be using it. i try to build the car to handle the power before i build the power so its probably suspension, trans, fuel, exhaust, cooling, axles, motor/transmission mounts and everything else before the long block and everything else. oh PS - Xcceleration
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