need help! please
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From: wahiawa
Car Info: 04 subaru wrx
i own a 04 subaru wrx sedan, java black
my car has about 99,000 mileage
gotta do my water pump,timing belt,all aux belts,fuel pump,and injectors.
so what else should i upgrade all at the same time??
camms?
pulleys?
intake manifold?
??
or swap motor?
my car has about 99,000 mileage
gotta do my water pump,timing belt,all aux belts,fuel pump,and injectors.
so what else should i upgrade all at the same time??
camms?
pulleys?
intake manifold?
??
or swap motor?
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From: wahiawa
Car Info: 04 subaru wrx
i have a 04 subaru wrx...98,000 mileage
it has on now
tein street coilovers
sti tmic
vf39 turbo
stock injectors
greddy oil catch can
blue/purple anodized titanium racing lugnut bolts
sti hood scoop
sti spoiler
cusco turbo heat shield
apexi avcr booster controller
afc neo
stage 2 cobb access port
helix up pipe
3 inch straight piping
rsr exhaust
five spoke black axis rims
blizt turbo timer
stage 1 exedy clutch
kart boy short shifter
white line bushings
aps cold air intake...
on the side i have....
stock wrx turbo
stock tmic
greddy thrust fmic
it has on now
tein street coilovers
sti tmic
vf39 turbo
stock injectors
greddy oil catch can
blue/purple anodized titanium racing lugnut bolts
sti hood scoop
sti spoiler
cusco turbo heat shield
apexi avcr booster controller
afc neo
stage 2 cobb access port
helix up pipe
3 inch straight piping
rsr exhaust
five spoke black axis rims
blizt turbo timer
stage 1 exedy clutch
kart boy short shifter
white line bushings
aps cold air intake...
on the side i have....
stock wrx turbo
stock tmic
greddy thrust fmic
I'm saving for a motor/transmission swap because I know its will eventually happen with 100k+ on the clock, its just a matter of time. Right now, I would say not to upgrade anything and just sit on it until it either breaks or you simply save up enough money to do it. You can always sell a high mileage RUNNING motor.
The best way to get a reliable 400 whp is to sell your suby and buy an evo. 
Realistically to get 400whp, the easiest way would be to switch to a 2.5L block. Big turbo. Bigger injectors. FMIC. Bigger Fuel Pump. Possibly meth. Cams would help. Then you're clutch is going to go out or you'll break a gear (hope for the first). Then we haven't even started going for looks yet, that's a whole another balll game. My suggestion, buy an Evo.
. I couldn't get even $200 for my running EJ205 Shortblock with 130k on it. I ended up just giving it away. Nobody wants a high mileage 2.0 block.

Realistically to get 400whp, the easiest way would be to switch to a 2.5L block. Big turbo. Bigger injectors. FMIC. Bigger Fuel Pump. Possibly meth. Cams would help. Then you're clutch is going to go out or you'll break a gear (hope for the first). Then we haven't even started going for looks yet, that's a whole another balll game. My suggestion, buy an Evo.
You can always sell a high mileage RUNNING motor.
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From: Seibukan Dojo /HI. Kendo Federation
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The best way to get a reliable 400 whp is to sell your suby and buy an evo. 
Realistically to get 400whp, the easiest way would be to switch to a 2.5L block. Big turbo. Bigger injectors. FMIC. Bigger Fuel Pump. Possibly meth. Cams would help. Then you're clutch is going to go out or you'll break a gear (hope for the first). Then we haven't even started going for looks yet, that's a whole another balll game. My suggestion, buy an Evo.
. I couldn't get even $200 for my running EJ205 Shortblock with 130k on it. I ended up just giving it away. Nobody wants a high mileage 2.0 block.

Realistically to get 400whp, the easiest way would be to switch to a 2.5L block. Big turbo. Bigger injectors. FMIC. Bigger Fuel Pump. Possibly meth. Cams would help. Then you're clutch is going to go out or you'll break a gear (hope for the first). Then we haven't even started going for looks yet, that's a whole another balll game. My suggestion, buy an Evo.
. I couldn't get even $200 for my running EJ205 Shortblock with 130k on it. I ended up just giving it away. Nobody wants a high mileage 2.0 block.
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From: Boostin' troubles away - 4EAT Memories 12.87@103.2
Car Info: 51E LHD V7 STI (2.0)
your running stock injectors with a vf39? also no tune? no fuel pump?
there is no difference between the red USMD STI intake manifold and the silver WRX one you have. The JDM versions are also the same (with a few minor cosmetic differences for the lack of emissions). The only one that's different is the JDM STI Spec-C which is one long runner that has no TGV assembly. You could do a TGV delete but I'd make sure you maintain your investment first before throwing more money at it.
Do the maintenance on your engine. Change your spark plugs, fuel filter in the engine bay, both belts, change the timing belt and automatic tensioner along with all the bearings associated with the timing belt area. There is no need to spend extra money on aftermarket timing belts since the stock one should be changed at 109k per your maintenance schedule. It should have been checked for signs of wear and cracking at 60k. Change the water pump AND thermostat and depending on the hose conditions for your water pump you should definitely change those as well since they get hard and brittle.
If you're there and willing to go the distance you could do like I did and change the crankshaft sprocket when you replace your oil pump. Be aware this isn't an easy task if the gear is stuck. You'll need to buy the shim for that gear as well (forgot the exact name). Due to your mileage you may want to also replace the timing belt tensioners on the timing belt cover. Get a cosworth timing belt guide since you're there as well.
oh there are a few seals like your rear transmission seal and if you're going to change your clutch soon or haven't done this yet... change the rear main seal. You'll need to drop your trans for that one. If you change your oil pump you'll need to change a small o-ring behind the oil pump as well as a brown seal that goes in between the crankshaft and the oil pump itself. I'd be best to do whatever can be done when you're doing your maintenance and in those areas. It'll get costly but if you plan on having your car around for a while and plan on upgrading you'll want to insure all is in working order.
change your trans/diff fluid and rear diff fluid. if you haven't done it already flush out your coolant system and run new coolant (replacement radiator hoses (OEM or aftermarket), radiator would be best at this time). flush your brake fluid
Check your valve covers to see if your valve cover gaskets are leaking.
bottom line before doing any FURTHER upgrades have a plan.
master brake cylinder bracket, stainless steel brake lines, fluid, pads, rotors is a worth while upgrade - immediate difference in performance.
FYI: there are bugeyes in the mainland running around or approaching 300k on their stock engines and their still putting power down.
there is no difference between the red USMD STI intake manifold and the silver WRX one you have. The JDM versions are also the same (with a few minor cosmetic differences for the lack of emissions). The only one that's different is the JDM STI Spec-C which is one long runner that has no TGV assembly. You could do a TGV delete but I'd make sure you maintain your investment first before throwing more money at it.
Do the maintenance on your engine. Change your spark plugs, fuel filter in the engine bay, both belts, change the timing belt and automatic tensioner along with all the bearings associated with the timing belt area. There is no need to spend extra money on aftermarket timing belts since the stock one should be changed at 109k per your maintenance schedule. It should have been checked for signs of wear and cracking at 60k. Change the water pump AND thermostat and depending on the hose conditions for your water pump you should definitely change those as well since they get hard and brittle.
If you're there and willing to go the distance you could do like I did and change the crankshaft sprocket when you replace your oil pump. Be aware this isn't an easy task if the gear is stuck. You'll need to buy the shim for that gear as well (forgot the exact name). Due to your mileage you may want to also replace the timing belt tensioners on the timing belt cover. Get a cosworth timing belt guide since you're there as well.
oh there are a few seals like your rear transmission seal and if you're going to change your clutch soon or haven't done this yet... change the rear main seal. You'll need to drop your trans for that one. If you change your oil pump you'll need to change a small o-ring behind the oil pump as well as a brown seal that goes in between the crankshaft and the oil pump itself. I'd be best to do whatever can be done when you're doing your maintenance and in those areas. It'll get costly but if you plan on having your car around for a while and plan on upgrading you'll want to insure all is in working order.
change your trans/diff fluid and rear diff fluid. if you haven't done it already flush out your coolant system and run new coolant (replacement radiator hoses (OEM or aftermarket), radiator would be best at this time). flush your brake fluid
Check your valve covers to see if your valve cover gaskets are leaking.
bottom line before doing any FURTHER upgrades have a plan.
master brake cylinder bracket, stainless steel brake lines, fluid, pads, rotors is a worth while upgrade - immediate difference in performance.
FYI: there are bugeyes in the mainland running around or approaching 300k on their stock engines and their still putting power down.
Last edited by iNfEk; Feb 24, 2010 at 01:14 AM.
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From: Rockin my 6th Suby in the 808 in the past decade!
Car Info: 01 Impreza RSTi, 08 Evo MR, and 13 XV
this thread should be closed. this topic has been beaten more than a perv with a **** mag on his pecker. OP research sorry to be so BLUNT but I got the same attitude when I was a noob. search, search, search, and search some more. plenty of good info here and on NASIOC......
and to caveat on what Jon was saying, some tuners tend to agree that Suby motors break in after 100k
and to caveat on what Jon was saying, some tuners tend to agree that Suby motors break in after 100k
Thread Starter
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Posts: 147
From: wahiawa
Car Info: 04 subaru wrx
holy ****, thanks for all the help and info guys...
specially to infek, thanks man...
ill keep my wrx motor then, do al the maintenance and upgrade from there...
wow really tuners agree our motors break in after 100k mileage. sick!!!!
specially to infek, thanks man...
ill keep my wrx motor then, do al the maintenance and upgrade from there...
wow really tuners agree our motors break in after 100k mileage. sick!!!!
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=1393580
read this thread it is very eye opening...
read this thread it is very eye opening...
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From: She's so hot, I'd tongue-punch her in the fartbox
Car Info: 2001 RSTi Widebody
this thread should be closed. this topic has been beaten more than a perv with a **** mag on his pecker. OP research sorry to be so BLUNT but I got the same attitude when I was a noob. search, search, search, and search some more. plenty of good info here and on NASIOC......
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