Anybody have a knock-free STRAIGHT 92 octane ignition map?

All of my maps (including the one I run 12.70's on) are tuned for 95 octane (92 + Toluene). I no longer want to deal with throwing toluene in the tank (it gives me major health zaps) nor the cost of mixing in 100 octane unleaded.

Any kind souls want to post their street gas ignition maps so I can compare my efforts? I'm having to drop timing WAY down and I'm still seeing knock.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

I feel you bro. I have yet to tune a knock free 92 octane map. Granted, I don't have a wide band yet, but I suspect I am hella rich for the most part. By just pulling timing at trouble spots I get some crazy weird looking timing maps, and it still doesn't eliminate knock 100% of the time. I say for your street map just set the timing to ECU across the board. I am excited to try tuning on a wide band with the 4.2 firmware on the UTEC though, I hope that will help with resolve my det. problems once and for all.

 

I've got an knock free map for 91, but since every car is different, it might know on others.

a few things to check

- where are you knocking? under what load and RPM? If you run too rich or have a timing map that doesn't match the spool char. of your turbo, you'll tend to knock.

- jumping points on the timing map; you'll want to try to have a smooth timing map, one that doesn't have sharp changes.

- also did you bump up the knock threashold to 2 instead of 1? Sometimes engine noise will be detected as knock. Setting it to 2 helps eliminate some of those false readings..

hope this helps..

Tommy

 

finally back on the net. I have a map I downloaded from WRXHackers, and looks to be Phils VF30 FMIC map. Map is very aggressive (according to the site) and I've never seen any knock data at all on my UTEC. Took Mario for a ride and he was very impressed. On WRXHackers, it will something like "very aggressive, for reference only" or some crap like that. Bear in mind I have a FMIC.

San

 

Tommy,

Thanks for the reply. I haven't done any logging with the car recently, but it's usually at the torque peaks at ~18psi of boost. I'll let you know what load zones after I do some midnight data collection runs.

I get 0 knock with my 95 octane Toluene cocktail, but it's just getting too expensive to keep up with. I'd love to take a gander at your 91 octane timing map if you'd care to share it.

I have always tried to make my ignition changes as smooth as possible.

My knock threshold has been at 2 for quite some time - I used to get a LOT of noise at 1.

Mahalo,
Richard
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

San,

Sounds like you've got a special rid there! First time I've heard of a stock map working on 92 octane with no knock!

I don't know how many hours Pat, Wes, and I spent tuning knock out of the stock (fat and retarded) stage 4 TMIC map!

Richard
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

it's even weirder than that. I wasn't on the stage 4 map at all when I accidentally ran 23+ lbs of boost repeatedly (AVC-R hoses hooked up wrong). I was on the stock map (map selector on wrong setting). The map I received from a vendor didn't thrill me, so I downloaded the VF30 FMIC map. I've run it at 18.82 lbs on 92 with a bottle of 104+ (Saturday track day), and 19-20 the track day before with race gas/92 mix. I really think the FMIC saved my engine. 23 lbs at 4000 rpm feels good!

San

 

i get knock even with like around 96 octane, but i'm still using the same txs stage 4 map, i think i should stop using the cheap costco gas

 

bump
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

yep
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

So there's nobody on island with a knock-free 92 octane map? I guess throwing octane at the car is the easy way out... I guess I'm going to have to buckle down and just start droppin' 100 octane in the tank again.

If I decide to keep the car (likely unless I get a large infusion of cash sometime soon) maybe I'll look into water or alcohol injection to keep my fuel costs down.
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

'where' are you having problems?

 

In the RPM band? At the expected torque peak areas. I have already fuel tuned the car (before I sold my WBO2 to Mike) so I'm concentrating on timing for the most part. I'm having to drop and smooth the timing curve to seriously low levels on pump gas that is really affecting performance.

What are you guys running at torque and hp peaks for timing?
__________________
Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote

 

oh, so you haven't messed with the fuel at all? not that it's a great answer, but throwing more fuel in is going to help, right??

 

I don't know what to tell you, Rich. This almost seems like a preference question, at least to me. The reason I say that is because I focused on that drag map so much that I usually just left it set on that map for daily driving. When I wasn't at the track (and couldn't find any octane anywhere), I normally drove very mildly anyhow. I am not like you; I was/am much more careless. I always had to drive with my eyes on the gauges around town and on the highway. If I got on it on the highway and I started to knock or go out of the efficiency area of my turbo, I'd just pull back. Usually when I'd pull over somewhere, start logging and then try and recreate the instance so I could identify where to drop some timing. I didn't usually throw fuel at it because that seemed wasteful. Also, I recognized that by doing this, I was slowing myself down, but I hardly ever raced on the highway. If I did, it was only with one of you guys so no face would be lost if I pulled up due to high EGTs or knock.

I know that didn't help a damn bit.

Have you tried to UTEC newby method of pulling 2 degrees across the board?