And now it comes to this...
And now it comes to this...
Posting in an N/A thread I have somewhat of a predesposition as to which way this is going to go, but I'll ask anyway. Next year when I graduate I plan on dumping a somewhat rediculous amount of money into my '02 2.5 and I'm debating between the Stage 2 or Stage 3 COBB shortblock, either of which will be mated to COBB heads and other COBB goodies. The stage 2 holds appeal in that an 11:1 comp. 8500 rpm 2.5 liter N/A motor can't be bad and may have a better chance at reliablility as apposed to the 8.2:1 (right?) comp (I'm assuming) 8500 rpm stage 3. The stage 2 would obviously be slightly more cost effective in that I would need less bolt-on's but let me know what you guys have to say. As always, thanks guys.
TVA
TVA
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Stage III is fr turbo, Stage II is for N/A. The 8.2:1 compression is much lower than stock. You'd have a hard time making the stock 165 horsepower at redline in that motor without FI.
Oh... I must have not explained myself clearly enough because I'm thinking that you took my post as though I was a complete idiot... Lol. Anyway, I realise that the 8.2:1 is much lower than stock and I was planning on FI for the stage III, I just need to decide if I want to go all motor or if I want to boost the car, and those two choices are obviously represented with the stage II or stage III kits, respectively. So lets hear the classic battle guys, N/A vs. FI. Thanks for the quick response Ban, sorry I was a little unclear.
TVA
TVA
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
No problem. I vote for boost if you can afford it, and NA if you just want to go down the path less traveled. 
Oh yeah, reliability is purely a function of tuning with both those motors. They are equaly resistant to blowing up.

Oh yeah, reliability is purely a function of tuning with both those motors. They are equaly resistant to blowing up.
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Hey!
I built my motor fully N/A with 11:1 compression on a closed deck block (bored to almost 2.6 litres and custom internals) and literally everything else in it. And boy is it fun! It needs new engine management because the unichip is not cutting it, but it redlines at 8,000 rpm. All the other bolt ons too.
Its a neat car to drive, good low end torque and crazy high end, sounds great too up there. Im planning on the new mangement soon,and that should put me int he 13's for sure (my current best is a 14.20 @ 94.34).
The car is tuned poorly due to the unichip (hiccups in the power band, runs rich at idle and lean up high...u name it, it hasnt tuned in perfect), but there is plenty more to be released with the stand alone, I called unichip and told them my mods and they were surprised the Unichip even was able to get he car running somewhat decently, they told me to swith management to get real gains.
I can post a full mod list (very long) if you would like and you can pm me too. Anyway, I sure dont regret it, I know the car can do much better witht he stand alone, and the motor is built to hold a 100 shot of nitrous from an NX wet kit...but that will be installed and tuned for later on.
Good luck!
PS: All my stuff is custom from a race shop which specialized in building subaru rally motors, the only cobb motor parts on my car are the springs, retainers and racer cams.
www.lachutesubaru.com these guys are who i worked with, amazing people! Good prices on parts, you get the advantage of the exchange rate.
I built my motor fully N/A with 11:1 compression on a closed deck block (bored to almost 2.6 litres and custom internals) and literally everything else in it. And boy is it fun! It needs new engine management because the unichip is not cutting it, but it redlines at 8,000 rpm. All the other bolt ons too.
Its a neat car to drive, good low end torque and crazy high end, sounds great too up there. Im planning on the new mangement soon,and that should put me int he 13's for sure (my current best is a 14.20 @ 94.34).
The car is tuned poorly due to the unichip (hiccups in the power band, runs rich at idle and lean up high...u name it, it hasnt tuned in perfect), but there is plenty more to be released with the stand alone, I called unichip and told them my mods and they were surprised the Unichip even was able to get he car running somewhat decently, they told me to swith management to get real gains.
I can post a full mod list (very long) if you would like and you can pm me too. Anyway, I sure dont regret it, I know the car can do much better witht he stand alone, and the motor is built to hold a 100 shot of nitrous from an NX wet kit...but that will be installed and tuned for later on.
Good luck!
PS: All my stuff is custom from a race shop which specialized in building subaru rally motors, the only cobb motor parts on my car are the springs, retainers and racer cams.
www.lachutesubaru.com these guys are who i worked with, amazing people! Good prices on parts, you get the advantage of the exchange rate.
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