Silver STi

Since you are so convinced that everyone will destroy their motors by changing their break-in oil at 3000 miles....why don't you enlighten us on how YOU break-in your motor.

Some of the more seasoned auto enthusiast don't just drive their car to break in the motor. Some actually have a break-in routine to help along the break-in process while providing a solid break-in to keep the engine in working order as long as possible.

Here is your chance to set us all straight.

So, do it.

 

hey steve whats an engine flush?? oh yea that thing where your engine runs on trans fluid? yea thats great for your engine. i am a student at UNO ~high performance enginearing~ is my major ok im just telling you what comes in the car "(castrol bla bla) should stay in the car for the rest of its life" and petro swaps should be made by using semi sin. before sin. "bye the same manufacturer" not ENGINE FLUSH where your engine runs on 2 qt's of trans fluid. scorching the rings main berings on and onnn bla bla... but hey dont listen to me what do i know i have to sit in class all day to learn this stuff i wouldent know a thing huh.. just trying to help.

 

theirs tree steps to breaking in a new engine 1. granny 3,000 miles 2-3,000 RPM "change oil" (hardend sleves wait till step TWO ~WRX~") 2. normal 2,000 miles 3-4,000 RPM (hardend sleves change oil) 3. lead foot 2,000 miles max 6,000 RPM change oil.

their you go stright out of my notes in class know you know how to break in a engine and you didnt have to pay $2,000

 

Silver STi,

Sorry for the delay in response...been away from the net for a bit.

Depending on who makes engine flush will determine what you are flushing with exactly. For example a good engine flush will advise you put on a brand new oil filter, and uses a very high concentration of detergent in a very light weight oil to ensure that it get's into all possible crevices of the engine. The detergents will help remove residues left by conventional oils.

Something you mentioned before about scorching the cylinders is not a completely accurate statement. For the scorching to occur there would need to be a great deal of excess friction. Assuming that people are breaking in their motors properly...and using a good synthetic oil, this excess friction will not occur. In fact if you slap an oil temp gauge on a subbie...get the oil temp readings with conventional oil...then change it out for a good synthetic you will notice a 7+ degree drop.

As for your break-in recommendations I can mostly agree, however you left out a few key points. 1 never let the engine idle for any length of time...and never leave the engine a a particular RPM for more then 15 seconds. As you will learn these actions will cause wear patterns in the cylinders that result in "stale" spots. This is one of the reasons all the manufacturers do not recommend setting the car in cruise control until the engine is broken in. To be more specific on this when you would be typically idling steady or set at a particular RPM you should actually vary the RPMs up and down a few hundred to a few thousand RPM's.

If you have ever broken in a 2-stroke motor, or an engine with very tight tolerances (blue printed, race, other) you will have encountered this regimen for break-in.

In the case of the WRX I stand by my original post for the number of miles to perform a proper break-in; assuming people are adhering to the above mentioned break-in procedures.

Not to start S**t or dog you in anyway..I am just curious how long you have been into cars, and how much you were around cars as a kid. You seem to have some good information but it seems to be lacking some "old school" experience. I may be wrong but that's just the way it seems to me based on your posts. Fill me in please.

Thanks,
Steve Signorelli

 

infact a new engine "must be idled" at 2,000 rpm for two hours on a new engine. this is to ensure the cam is hardened.
detergents such like that in flushes so on and so on leave that statment with the desel guys thats their feild. petro engines should never use hard detergents. I am a student at the university of north western Ohio i am studying "high-performance" at the #1 school in the country for race cars "high performance engine building. alot of this stuff you speek of is for old prehistoric push rod junk. ok im just informing you on the new modern reliable engines of today thanks ~Ken~

 

$50 says SilverSTi is gonna work in the warranty department and tell everyone with engine problems that they changed their oil too soon....

you know silversti.....you never answered my question about how long you have been into cars/engines.

sounds to me like all you know about cars/engines is what is fed to you... oh well another bad tech.