Flywheel and Clutch Install
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Flywheel and Clutch Install
Could anyone provide me with a rough idea of what happens when a flywheel and clutch are installed? Does the engine need to be pulled out to do it? I've heard that the clutch could be installed by dropping the tranny, but I'm not to sure what they mean by just "dropping" it.
Any information would help, thanks.
Any information would help, thanks.
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2-hour job, bring a friend
I assume youre talking about a tranny on a WRX? If it is on a 93 to 96 model, here are the things you need to remove to "drop" a tranny to access the clutch/flywheel. A friend and I had mine out and reinstalled in about 2 hours. I can remember most of the steps, but they may not be in the same order as we did it.
-Drop the exhaust from the turbo to the tail...
-Remove the bracket that runs from the tranny to the intercooler
-Remove the cover from the rear drive shaft (6 bolts, 14mm)
-Disconnect the rear drive shaft from the front and let it hang (4- 12mm bolt/nuts)
-Remove the middle drive shaft support (2-14mm bolts)
-Pull out the front drive shaft, cap the end of the tranny to keep oil from pouring out.
-Remove the 2 shift linkages (1-12mm bolt/nut, 1-12mm nut/spring)
-disconnect the grounding wire from the top of the tranny (1 12mm bolt/nut)
-Disconnect the clutch actuator (2 14mm bolts)
-Remove the starter (2 connectors, 1- 14mm nut, 1- 14mm bolt)
-Disconnect the electrical harness from the tranny
-Remove a "dogbone" looking mount (1-14mm nut/bolt front, 1-14mm nut rear)
-Tap the pins out of the front half-shafts (if you go to reinstall these and you are half-a tooth off, rotate the shaft 180 degrees because the pin hole is offset... dummy proof)
-Put a jack under the rear of the tranny and remove the tranny mount bracket (4-14mm bolts, 2-14mm nuts, 2-17mm bolts)
-Find the hex hole on the left side of the tranny and remove the plug. Thread a small screw into the hole under the plug and pull the bearing fork pin out. Make sure the forks are nice and loose and away from the bearing, or you will never get the tranny out and will damage your bearing. Believe me.
-Remove the remaining bolt and 2 nuts from the bell housing and slide the tranny back to the sides and pull off the opposing half shaft (this saves having to dismantle your front suspension to do this)
-Slide the tranny back, down and out.
Do this in reverse order for the install, with the exception of installing the fork pin and plug before putting the tranny up again
happy clutch change
-Drop the exhaust from the turbo to the tail...
-Remove the bracket that runs from the tranny to the intercooler
-Remove the cover from the rear drive shaft (6 bolts, 14mm)
-Disconnect the rear drive shaft from the front and let it hang (4- 12mm bolt/nuts)
-Remove the middle drive shaft support (2-14mm bolts)
-Pull out the front drive shaft, cap the end of the tranny to keep oil from pouring out.
-Remove the 2 shift linkages (1-12mm bolt/nut, 1-12mm nut/spring)
-disconnect the grounding wire from the top of the tranny (1 12mm bolt/nut)
-Disconnect the clutch actuator (2 14mm bolts)
-Remove the starter (2 connectors, 1- 14mm nut, 1- 14mm bolt)
-Disconnect the electrical harness from the tranny
-Remove a "dogbone" looking mount (1-14mm nut/bolt front, 1-14mm nut rear)
-Tap the pins out of the front half-shafts (if you go to reinstall these and you are half-a tooth off, rotate the shaft 180 degrees because the pin hole is offset... dummy proof)
-Put a jack under the rear of the tranny and remove the tranny mount bracket (4-14mm bolts, 2-14mm nuts, 2-17mm bolts)
-Find the hex hole on the left side of the tranny and remove the plug. Thread a small screw into the hole under the plug and pull the bearing fork pin out. Make sure the forks are nice and loose and away from the bearing, or you will never get the tranny out and will damage your bearing. Believe me.
-Remove the remaining bolt and 2 nuts from the bell housing and slide the tranny back to the sides and pull off the opposing half shaft (this saves having to dismantle your front suspension to do this)
-Slide the tranny back, down and out.
Do this in reverse order for the install, with the exception of installing the fork pin and plug before putting the tranny up again
happy clutch change
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 146
From: NJ
Car Info: ATR Catback, HKS Downpipe, Injen CAI, 17x7.5 Rota Subzeros/Falken Azenis, Tein HA's, Apexi-SAFC,
I am looking into getting the exedy stage 1 clutch kit and flywheel for my 02 wrx. but unlike the ACT and SPEC kits it doestn include the throw out bearing or alignment tool...are these OEM parts that I can get froma dealer or is the throw out bearig different for each different clutch?
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 270
From: Japan, where the term "JDM" doesn't exist
Car Info: '94 WRX, '97 Forester S/Tb, '95 WRX-RA
When I installed my stage 2 Exedy kit, I reused the stock throw-out bearing and the clutch pedal went right to the floor with no resistance at all. I later found out that you do need to buy the TO bearing separately if you are replacing the pressure plate. The Exedy bearing is much shorter than the stock one. Dont buy the allignment tool, just bum it off a friend or maybe you can rent one from Auto Zone, if they still do that kind of thing. A hacked-off output shaft from another tranny works too.
I wrote the procedure listed above under my other login, and the stage 2 is what I was installing at the time. Maybe yours doesn't require a separate bearing, but you should check prior to dropping the tranny, so you dont have to do like I did and reinstall the whole stock clutch again so I could drive the car while the bearing was on order.
I wrote the procedure listed above under my other login, and the stage 2 is what I was installing at the time. Maybe yours doesn't require a separate bearing, but you should check prior to dropping the tranny, so you dont have to do like I did and reinstall the whole stock clutch again so I could drive the car while the bearing was on order.
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Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
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