fluids???
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Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 989
From: Automotive racist capitol of the world, Detroit.
Car Info: 2000 impreza 2.5 rs
fluids???
hey yall
my names kevin im new to the board and even newer to the whole subaru owner-ship. i just bought my 2000 impreza 2.5rs with 82,000 miles on it ...
i want to do a welcome to the gradge all fluid change (except for break clutch and coolent) i was wondering what kind of oil do you all run? and what kind of trans and diff fluid do you use?
i was thinking of going amsoil but im not too shure what kind i need or what additives i should put in.
please help.
thanks
my names kevin im new to the board and even newer to the whole subaru owner-ship. i just bought my 2000 impreza 2.5rs with 82,000 miles on it ...
i want to do a welcome to the gradge all fluid change (except for break clutch and coolent) i was wondering what kind of oil do you all run? and what kind of trans and diff fluid do you use?
i was thinking of going amsoil but im not too shure what kind i need or what additives i should put in.
please help.
thanks
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Here's my personal fluid recommendations. They aren't the only solution, others will post different choices, but there is no "one" right answer in this case.
Engine oil: 5w30 full synthetic in colder climates. I usually use Mobil 1, but any full synthetic will do. Other favorites are Redline, Neo, Motul, Royal Purple, etc.
Gearbox: Synchro care is critical. There is much debate about what is good for the gearbox. I recently had 75w90 Royal Purple added when I changed my clutch and flywheel, and I don't think it's good for our gearboxes. This is because it is too slick- the synchros can't grab and this helps cause grinding. I will be switching to 75w90NS Redline or Neo 75w90 RHD when I install my 6MT, as these have what are called "friction modifiers" which help the synchros to work faster. Others will say to simply use the factory fluid, but nobody seems to have a certain grasp on exactly what it is or where to get it. Most dealers simply use plain 75w90 dino gear oil for their changes. Yet another option (bet you thought you were just gonna get some real quick answers for you to run to the auto parts store with, huh?
) is to try a 'cocktail' of different oils, usually including dino oil or what is known as GM Synchromesh. Before you settle on what to get, do a lot of searching and reading and decide on what you want to do for your own reasons. Gear oil is a compromise- choose according to what you think is most important. Again, I will be going with a synthetic 75w90 with limited slip additive. Your RS has a limited slip rear diff, so use the same stuff you put in the gearbox.
Coolant: Use whatever you want, as long as you flush out the old stuff entirely. Rather than running a 50/50 mix, try going with about 65% water/ 35% coolant. The coolant is there to not freeze and not boil- water is the best heat exchanger. I also recommend using a product like Redline Water Wetter. The car will run cooler with no other mods.
Brake fluid: I use ATE SuperBlue Racing, but like engine oil, any full synthetic DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid from a name brand will do. Everyone has their favorite. Avoid DOT 5 fluids if you like to drive hard.
Clutch: Same as brake fluid. Shouldn't need to be changed, but bleeding it wouldn't hurt. Bleeding it, however, will require a refill so it might as well be flushed.
Boost fluid: Just kidding.
Cheers,
Kevin
Engine oil: 5w30 full synthetic in colder climates. I usually use Mobil 1, but any full synthetic will do. Other favorites are Redline, Neo, Motul, Royal Purple, etc.
Gearbox: Synchro care is critical. There is much debate about what is good for the gearbox. I recently had 75w90 Royal Purple added when I changed my clutch and flywheel, and I don't think it's good for our gearboxes. This is because it is too slick- the synchros can't grab and this helps cause grinding. I will be switching to 75w90NS Redline or Neo 75w90 RHD when I install my 6MT, as these have what are called "friction modifiers" which help the synchros to work faster. Others will say to simply use the factory fluid, but nobody seems to have a certain grasp on exactly what it is or where to get it. Most dealers simply use plain 75w90 dino gear oil for their changes. Yet another option (bet you thought you were just gonna get some real quick answers for you to run to the auto parts store with, huh?
) is to try a 'cocktail' of different oils, usually including dino oil or what is known as GM Synchromesh. Before you settle on what to get, do a lot of searching and reading and decide on what you want to do for your own reasons. Gear oil is a compromise- choose according to what you think is most important. Again, I will be going with a synthetic 75w90 with limited slip additive. Your RS has a limited slip rear diff, so use the same stuff you put in the gearbox.Coolant: Use whatever you want, as long as you flush out the old stuff entirely. Rather than running a 50/50 mix, try going with about 65% water/ 35% coolant. The coolant is there to not freeze and not boil- water is the best heat exchanger. I also recommend using a product like Redline Water Wetter. The car will run cooler with no other mods.
Brake fluid: I use ATE SuperBlue Racing, but like engine oil, any full synthetic DOT 4 or DOT 5.1 fluid from a name brand will do. Everyone has their favorite. Avoid DOT 5 fluids if you like to drive hard.
Clutch: Same as brake fluid. Shouldn't need to be changed, but bleeding it wouldn't hurt. Bleeding it, however, will require a refill so it might as well be flushed.
Boost fluid: Just kidding.

Cheers,
Kevin
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Hey, I've never seen all this info in one thread before... gonna go put a sticky in Maintenance with that post. Feel free to post your opinions in there too fellas.
good call BAN....many people ask about this stuff....
I am going to put AP Racing Dot 5 brake fluid when i go to do my brakes but, if you are not on your brakes all the time i would go with Motul dot 4 also good stuff...
Coolant: Ban actually gave me the info for me do this to my suby a while back. What I did was emptied the coolant out and when i put in the new i went 40% water 60% coolant, and added water wetter and i actually got good results the temp bar went down a lil' atliest i think so, but either way it is still a good way to protect you engine.
Tranny: IMO i think Swepco shock proof gear oil is the best although it is expensive ... GOOD=$$$
Engine oil: i have been using mobil 1 5w30 (full synthetic) and it have had no problems with it...
I am going to put AP Racing Dot 5 brake fluid when i go to do my brakes but, if you are not on your brakes all the time i would go with Motul dot 4 also good stuff...
Coolant: Ban actually gave me the info for me do this to my suby a while back. What I did was emptied the coolant out and when i put in the new i went 40% water 60% coolant, and added water wetter and i actually got good results the temp bar went down a lil' atliest i think so, but either way it is still a good way to protect you engine.
Tranny: IMO i think Swepco shock proof gear oil is the best although it is expensive ... GOOD=$$$
Engine oil: i have been using mobil 1 5w30 (full synthetic) and it have had no problems with it...
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 18,369
From: Reno, NV
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Is your fluid DOT 5 or 5.1? See this article for the differences and which one you should use.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 989
From: Automotive racist capitol of the world, Detroit.
Car Info: 2000 impreza 2.5 rs
cool thanks for the info.. i truthfully have never changed mt fluid (had all autos) and like most people i have never changed rear diff fluid... great catch on the limited slip additive.... didnt think that one over
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