Drivetrain Encompasses driveline components such as the torque converter, clutch, transmission, shifter, front and center differentials, driveshaft, rear differential, and axles.

Clutch slippage question

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Old 12-13-2004, 11:55 AM
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Clutch slippage question

Gentelmen,

I have an intermittant problem with my clutch slipping. I have a Clutchmaster Stage 2 clutch installed about 1 year ago. The only other modifacations to my car is an air filter and Greddy ProfecB boost controller set for .8 bar for winter.

Problem:

When giving the car WOT, or close to WOT, from low rpm ( 2000-2500 ) in 3rd, occationally 4th, the clutch will slip around 3300ish--- and starts to grab around 4500. However, if I am driving a little more spirited from 1 thru 4th, it does not slip at all. I can tell it's not "really" slipping, as I have felt it from the OEM clutch that let go around 50K miles. Any ideas? Is there an ajustment that can be made, or something the people installed it may have looked over? Possibly not resurfacing the fly wheel or something?

Any input would be grateful. I have attempted to contact the facility who did the work, but in dealings with MY car, I can't get anyone on the phone.


Chris
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Old 12-15-2004, 01:41 PM
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Ttt
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Old 12-28-2004, 03:16 PM
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Car Info: '94 WRX, '97 Forester S/Tb, '95 WRX-RA
Sounds like your clutch disc is screwed. I have an Exedy stage 2 setup that was installed probably around the same time you did yours, and its seems to be going too. Racing clutches are made to be less forgiving compared to your normal stock organic that most cars have. For instance, (in daily driving) with the stock clutch, you can "ease" the pedal out when getting the car going in first gear... with a racing clutch, you actually have to "drop" it a little to get the car going. They are made to handle uber lock-and-go launches. Easing the pedal out on a racing clutch (cerametalic clutches especially) actually wears the disc out a lot faster. Refer to this page for more info.
http://www.daikin-clutch.com/products/sports.shtml Wish I knew this back when I installed it!

I know what you mean about how it doesn't feel like its actually "slipping". With a stock clutch, your revs go through the roof, and youre like "Damn, the clutch is going", right? With a racing clutch, it will grab and slip at random when its on its way out. Mine slips the worst when the boost peaks, regardless of the gear, but eventually grabs when it gets hot and stinky. Hope this helps!
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Old 12-28-2004, 07:55 PM
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ToiletBrush,

I was considering stepping it up this time to the Clutchmaster Stage 3. Do you think this would pose the same problem in a year from now? I intend to get a little more serious with the modifacations in the up coming months, so I would like something that would be able to hold those. At the same time, I would also have to keep in mind that this car is driven to work about 3-4 days out of the week.

Thanks for the input
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Old 12-29-2004, 06:10 AM
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The stage 2 should be sufficient, but I guess a stage 3 would be better in the long run if you intend to mod a lot more. Its a common problem with people who have racing clutches in a vehicle that doubles as their daily driver. Stop and go traffic is a killer on your clutch, and your leg. I have been trying to change my driving style so I don't burn the hell out of the hyper single I plan on replacing my stage 2 with. To get started in 1st gear, I just get a little more aggressive with the clutch pedal and let it out a bit faster. Like that site link I posted said, you should accept the slight chatter and "bucking" you get when you have a racing clutch. One thing I was looking into is getting a carbon disc instead of a cerametallic, as these are supposed to be a lot more resistant to wear from daily driving and still have very good holding power when you need it.
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