ok so tranny is now shuddering in first usless i kind of slip the clutch. 2,3,4,5 gears i punch the gas and rpms rise but car doesnt accerate fast or feel like its clamping down then all of a sudden it feels like it catches and then accerates. car is a 03 just had regular tranny fluid changed and now started to do that after the change oh also has 65k miles. any help or comments would be much helpful thanks

 

Sounds like your clutch is wasted. You'll have to pull it.

 

yeah its fried so now i gotta replace so anyone wanna tell me a good clutch to replace it with i have pde up/dp, vf30 ,accessport, intake, pinks, tbe, and blitZ bc need to hold the power

 

ok so new clutch and flywheel in act stage 1 and prolite fly well crusing around today and get a CEL car kind of jerks alittle and blinking CEL then goes to solid on. can anyone tell me why and maybe a fix. but besides that car is way smoooother and revs like a mother any info ?

 

The jerkiness is probably the stronger grip of the new clutch...

The CEL most likely from the lightweight flywheel, some wrx's are ok and some throw a CEL. How heavy is the flywheel? Do you have an aftermarket pulley?

A lightweight pulley AND a lightweight flywheel will def. cause a CEL.

If the flywheel is under 12lbs, that increases the chance also

Get the CEL code read, it will probably be for a misfire (do to the flywheel)

 

thanks but is there anyway to fix the cel or do i have to live with it? the flywheel is the 9.6 lbs act but if there is something to buy that can make it go away and does this hurt the car

 

i have no suggestions regarding your CEL... However, just thought I'd notify you regarding the stronger clutch... Just so you are aware, generally stock clutches are good even if you have mods... Truth is, it may not GRAB as strong, but consider the shock that you are sending through the drivetrain and into the transmission with the harder engagement... Clutches are meant to be light enough to be slipped and take some wear before allowing that wear to transfer directly to your gears. Personally I would have gone with astock level replacement, but even so, be aware that any aggressive shifting will take its toll on the tranny, be extra careful, because now it will increase the likelihood of failure...

Just a heads up, man!

 

i agree with what he said, i recently changed my clutch disc about 2 weeks ago-new disc, new pressure plate, throw out bearing, pilot bearing(everything stock)...my old stock clutch lasted me almost 3 yrs(35 months to be exact)...i do alot of drag racing and auto x, and i have a vishnu stage 2 set up..i told myself why get aftermarket when my car is running fine the way it is...instead of worrying about all those things about aftermarket clutch/flywheel....

btw...i had my flywheel resurfaced...

 

thanks for the help. i just wanted to get something a little stronger for turboxs stage 4. does anyone know about getting rid of cel?

 

Boost Addict, you mentioned staying with a stock-level clutch to avoid stress on the gears. I am like minded, and I am looking for a replacement for my stock clutch (and flywheel while I am at it). I have an 02 wrx (since 02) and its just now giving me some shimmy starting off.

Edit: Did a little research, I am looking at the following combo
ACT 13.9lb StreetLite Flywheel
ACT Street Perf Clutch (HD Pressure Plate / Performance Organic Street Disc)
OR
ACT Street Perf Clutch (HD Pressure Plate / Stock Street Disc)

(My car's pretty lightly modded for now, 3" turboback, stock turbo, CAI, stock ECU, MBC, most of the other work's suspension related. )

Wondering which one of those two clutches would fit me best?

 

I replaced my clutch and flywheel with oem replacements ~49K miles(new updated flywheel that eliminates the judder). My mods are similiar (UP/TBE/IC hoses/ecutek). I also vote for oem.

IIRC, the ACT and Exedy clutches have between 30% - 45% more clamping force than stock.

 

If you dont mind me askin how much did the dealer get for the Clutch and Fly?

 

I paid through the nose at downtown oakland subaru. It was like $730 for the clutch, assembly, TOB and updated flywheel. Clutch, TOB and assembly alone was four hundred something. I could have just resurfaced the flywheel, but I wanted to get rid of the judder. It does drive much smoother now.

If you have a 2003 or older 2002 you may have the updated flywheel already. Or you could buy an after market lightweight flywheel. They rev faster, but come with little quirks.

I probably could have found a better deal online, but I needed my car for getting to work!

 

Nah from what I am looking at, you didn't get juiced, not too bad at all. It's about $500 for an ACT Stock Street Disc clutch setup and about 220 for a 13.9lb ACT flywheel, so that's pretty much around what you payed for equiv components. (By equivelant I mean somewhat 'close to stock capacity' aftermarket parts)

If I can ask ya one more, what did that dealer charge you to install it? I don't think I can do it myself.

 

Sent a pm