Santa Rosa Smog Shop
02-18-2012, 02:31 PM
#16
You answered your own questions. Put back the stock DP and keep it there if you don't want to go under the car again. Resuse the gaskets. Stage 2 to stock is no big deal. Use stock map or stage 1 map.
02-18-2012, 03:36 PM
#17
previously known as wrxBRAH
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Personally I use the Grimspeed double thick gaskets because I hate having to track down exhaust leaks and so far they havent failed me with multiple installs.
02-18-2012, 03:52 PM
#18
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If I used a stock or stage 1 map, I'd throw CEL's, big time. I could ask my tuner if he has a canned map that defeats all of the CEL's but doesn't run so rich...
02-18-2012, 03:55 PM
#19
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Sure you can drop the entire TBE but its kind of a pain to do solo and its only 1 less gasket to replace. Unless your TBE is welded as a 1 piece, Id recommend just changing the DP back to stock.
Personally I use the Grimspeed double thick gaskets because I hate having to track down exhaust leaks and so far they havent failed me with multiple installs.
Personally I use the Grimspeed double thick gaskets because I hate having to track down exhaust leaks and so far they havent failed me with multiple installs.
Grimspeed gaskets are the bomb.
02-18-2012, 04:26 PM
#20
previously known as wrxBRAH
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I'm really thinking this guy wants to see both cats. So if I have a buddy to help, I should be able to drop the entire exhaust in one piece? That midpipe bracket is kind of a ***** IIRC. I have the shorter Karboy hangers replacing all the stock ones.
Grimspeed gaskets are the bomb.
Grimspeed gaskets are the bomb.
Stock downpipe w/both cats
Aftermarket downpipe
02-18-2012, 04:43 PM
#21
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What you're calling the stock DP is what I'm calling the stock DP PLUS a midpipe. The difference in terminology is probably due to the fact that I have a shorty catless DP and an aftermarket midpipe with a high flow cat.
Regardless, I now understand that you're saying to put both the stock DP and midpipe back on (in my terminology). Since I currently have a 3" flat flange at the joint where the CBE meets the midpipe (my terminolgy), the stock donut gasket wouldn't seal right so hopefully I can swap the donut flange back on the Borla Hush CBE, but I bet it's rusted in there real good...hence my reasoning for wanting to swap the entire TBE back to stock. I guess I'll just have to see if I can torch it out of there or something.
Regardless, I now understand that you're saying to put both the stock DP and midpipe back on (in my terminology). Since I currently have a 3" flat flange at the joint where the CBE meets the midpipe (my terminolgy), the stock donut gasket wouldn't seal right so hopefully I can swap the donut flange back on the Borla Hush CBE, but I bet it's rusted in there real good...hence my reasoning for wanting to swap the entire TBE back to stock. I guess I'll just have to see if I can torch it out of there or something.
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