Santa Rosa Smog Shop
You answered your own questions. Put back the stock DP and keep it there if you don't want to go under the car again. Resuse the gaskets. Stage 2 to stock is no big deal. Use stock map or stage 1 map.
previously known as wrxBRAH
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Personally I use the Grimspeed double thick gaskets because I hate having to track down exhaust leaks and so far they havent failed me with multiple installs.
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If I used a stock or stage 1 map, I'd throw CEL's, big time. I could ask my tuner if he has a canned map that defeats all of the CEL's but doesn't run so rich...
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Sure you can drop the entire TBE but its kind of a pain to do solo and its only 1 less gasket to replace. Unless your TBE is welded as a 1 piece, Id recommend just changing the DP back to stock.
Personally I use the Grimspeed double thick gaskets because I hate having to track down exhaust leaks and so far they havent failed me with multiple installs.
Personally I use the Grimspeed double thick gaskets because I hate having to track down exhaust leaks and so far they havent failed me with multiple installs.
Grimspeed gaskets are the bomb.
previously known as wrxBRAH
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From: San Jose / Campbell
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I'm really thinking this guy wants to see both cats. So if I have a buddy to help, I should be able to drop the entire exhaust in one piece? That midpipe bracket is kind of a ***** IIRC. I have the shorter Karboy hangers replacing all the stock ones.
Grimspeed gaskets are the bomb.
Grimspeed gaskets are the bomb.
Stock downpipe w/both cats

Aftermarket downpipe
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What you're calling the stock DP is what I'm calling the stock DP PLUS a midpipe. The difference in terminology is probably due to the fact that I have a shorty catless DP and an aftermarket midpipe with a high flow cat.
Regardless, I now understand that you're saying to put both the stock DP and midpipe back on (in my terminology). Since I currently have a 3" flat flange at the joint where the CBE meets the midpipe (my terminolgy), the stock donut gasket wouldn't seal right so hopefully I can swap the donut flange back on the Borla Hush CBE, but I bet it's rusted in there real good...hence my reasoning for wanting to swap the entire TBE back to stock. I guess I'll just have to see if I can torch it out of there or something.
Regardless, I now understand that you're saying to put both the stock DP and midpipe back on (in my terminology). Since I currently have a 3" flat flange at the joint where the CBE meets the midpipe (my terminolgy), the stock donut gasket wouldn't seal right so hopefully I can swap the donut flange back on the Borla Hush CBE, but I bet it's rusted in there real good...hence my reasoning for wanting to swap the entire TBE back to stock. I guess I'll just have to see if I can torch it out of there or something.
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