looking for a Glock gunsmith in the southbay
01-19-2005, 05:06 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Salty
Any reputable gunsmith should be able to look at a glock.
It would be like an ASE mechanic looking at a chevy. Maybe it's time to scrap that plastic POS and get a Sig or 1911 frame?
It would be like an ASE mechanic looking at a chevy. Maybe it's time to scrap that plastic POS and get a Sig or 1911 frame?
Nah-although I have a colt .45 1911 and a beretta 92g elite I would say they are all nice guns in different ways.
01-19-2005, 05:09 PM
#17
Originally Posted by Salty
Yes. But it's main purpose is to tackle stubborn copper and lead.
-For semi automatic and automatic housings I field strip the entire weapon (detail strip only if you know what you’re doing).
-Then I take regular, unscented foam shaving cream and cover all the pieces of the weapon thoroughly and let it soak for a few minutes.
-Take each piece and scrub them with a stiff tooth brush well. Then take each piece and rise under warm tap water as you continue to brush. Repeat if necessary.
-Then I do this with a Nitro Solvent (black labeled Hoppes) and repeat as necessary.
-Once you’ve finished with the last round of Hoppes do not put back under water! Instead you’ll want to wipe clean with a rag and then oil the moving parts with a light coat of oil. Usually Hoppes or CLP.
-Tackle the barrel with patches of Nitro till your patches run clean. Then run a final patch with a small amount of oil. Be sure to run the rod from the breech to the muzzle (the direction the bullet travels) and not the other way around! Last thing you want to do is burr the muzzle crown and jeopardize accuracy.
-Reassemble the weapon, perform functions check and put her away
-For semi automatic and automatic housings I field strip the entire weapon (detail strip only if you know what you’re doing).
-Then I take regular, unscented foam shaving cream and cover all the pieces of the weapon thoroughly and let it soak for a few minutes.
-Take each piece and scrub them with a stiff tooth brush well. Then take each piece and rise under warm tap water as you continue to brush. Repeat if necessary.
-Then I do this with a Nitro Solvent (black labeled Hoppes) and repeat as necessary.
-Once you’ve finished with the last round of Hoppes do not put back under water! Instead you’ll want to wipe clean with a rag and then oil the moving parts with a light coat of oil. Usually Hoppes or CLP.
-Tackle the barrel with patches of Nitro till your patches run clean. Then run a final patch with a small amount of oil. Be sure to run the rod from the breech to the muzzle (the direction the bullet travels) and not the other way around! Last thing you want to do is burr the muzzle crown and jeopardize accuracy.
-Reassemble the weapon, perform functions check and put her away
01-19-2005, 06:54 PM
#18
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Glocks are so easy to clean. Simple green and some warm water works fine on them. In fact I have a video from the American Gunsmithing Institute that shows how to detail strip and clean Glocks, and the guy in the video just took apart the gun, hosed everything down with simple green and rinsed the parts clean. You can even use 15w50 Mobil 1 to lube the moving parts.
01-20-2005, 10:07 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by Group B
use a good nitro solvent when performing the cleaning Salty mentioned, like Hoppe's #9, and a good, light gun oil afterwards.
Reed's Sport Shop in Santa Clara is a good gun store, I would think they'd have good in-house gunsmithing as well.
Reed's Sport Shop in Santa Clara is a good gun store, I would think they'd have good in-house gunsmithing as well.
Awesome info here guys. I used to shoot when I was little but I never learned the important things like cleaning the weapons and stuff. It's been years since I have fired a weapon, looking to hit a range soon if possible. After I fully strip and clean my gun. After I learn how. Haha..
BTW are there special ranges for rifles?
Thanks for all the info!!
-Jacob
01-20-2005, 11:03 AM
#21
Originally Posted by bluesaint
is it just me or it seems like the BAIC forum is turning into a terriorist forum with all the weapon discussions, bulletproof vest, etc 
Larry
01-20-2005, 11:54 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by brucelee
Full auto... Nice. lol... Keep it that way!
01-20-2005, 03:07 PM
#26
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Hey, that plastic POS is the most reliable semi-auto pistol on the face of the earth. Hey, it might not be fun to shoot, and it may look square... But the AK-47 isn't a pretty gun either... However, both will shoot until the end.
01-20-2005, 06:40 PM
#30
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and yeah... "Like you can buy one..."
And AK = $300
1000 rounds of ammo = $70
6, 40 round mags = $70
All together: $440 for a combat ready rifle that will shoot forever. (May not be as accurate an AR-15, but still accurate until the bullet starts dropping)
And AK = $300
1000 rounds of ammo = $70
6, 40 round mags = $70
All together: $440 for a combat ready rifle that will shoot forever. (May not be as accurate an AR-15, but still accurate until the bullet starts dropping)