I was at reeds last night. Fired 100 rds on my glock 22 .40 w/ winchester ammo. Ran out and bought the ones they carry-american eagle. After 20 rds one failed to fire. Loaded it again and it doubled. I spoke to the guys at reeds and told them I was not double tapping and might have been an accident. I went back in loaded up 4 rds in the clip. Doubled up again, had a friend who tried it, same thing. I was going to call it a night when I thought Id try out something. I loaded the clip 3 rds. OH SH** FULL AUTO. freaking scary at the same awesome. I just want it looked at.

 

Any reputable gunsmith should be able to look at a glock.

It would be like an ASE mechanic looking at a chevy. Maybe it's time to scrap that plastic POS and get a Sig or 1911 frame?

 

dude leave it full auto!!

 

But before you do that give the weapon a thorough cleaning and light oiling of the moving parts. Then perform a complete functions check as prescribed by glock (search). Then fire it again and see if that worked.

It sounds like you may have some carbon buildup on the sear and extractor.

If you've given it a good cleaning and the funcitons check happens to fail do not shoot it again. Take it to the gunsmith for repair.

 

oh thats precious

 

yeah that's a grat point....I was joking about full auto even though it is cool as hell Carbon buildup can definetly causes misfires etc...

 

use a good nitro solvent when performing the cleaning Salty mentioned, like Hoppe's #9, and a good, light gun oil afterwards.

Reed's Sport Shop in Santa Clara is a good gun store, I would think they'd have good in-house gunsmithing as well.

 

PM sent.

 

does nitro solvent remove carbon?

 

It should.

Soak the entire slide and the barrel in either Hoppe's #9 or Shooter's Choice Bore Solvent for 15 minutes, then scrub away. The Shooter's Choice is stronger yet than Hoppe's.

Shooter's Choice, Hoppe's, and Tetra all make good copper fouling solvent as well.

Tetra makes a really good gun oil too.

 

Yes. But it's main purpose is to tackle stubborn copper and lead.

-For semi automatic and automatic housings I field strip the entire weapon (detail strip only if you know what you’re doing).

-Then I take regular, unscented foam shaving cream and cover all the pieces of the weapon thoroughly and let it soak for a few minutes.

-Take each piece and scrub them with a stiff tooth brush well. Then take each piece and rise under warm tap water as you continue to brush. Repeat if necessary.

-Then I do this with a Nitro Solvent (black labeled Hoppes) and repeat as necessary.

-Once you’ve finished with the last round of Hoppes do not put back under water! Instead you’ll want to wipe clean with a rag and then oil the moving parts with a light coat of oil. Usually Hoppes or CLP.

-Tackle the barrel with patches of Nitro till your patches run clean. Then run a final patch with a small amount of oil. Be sure to run the rod from the breech to the muzzle (the direction the bullet travels) and not the other way around! Last thing you want to do is burr the muzzle crown and jeopardize accuracy.

-Reassemble the weapon, perform functions check and put her away

 

you serious about the shaving creeam? (not being sarcastic)
otherwise sounds like a good description of how to clean a piece up...

 

Is that the #9 plus? Damn that's for black powder, must be some strong stuff...

 

Eric does not mess around !

 

Yes I am.