How to tighten up the ride quality on a high mileage chassis?
06-17-2012, 06:28 PM
#1
Da Brit.
Thread Starter
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Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,808
Car Info: http://tinyurl.com/3vo4362
How to tighten up the ride quality on a high mileage chassis?
Coming up on 250k on chassis. Car has been through at least 4 transmission removal/reinstalls the motor has been through 4. Think about the sustained trauma to the chassis/surrounding parts during all of the mods and driving of that quarter million miles.
Current Symptoms:
brake pedal not as solid as I would like it to be.
Engine pitch seems clunky and rattle is audible while driving.
Clunking when I hit bumps.
Windows squeak loudly when rolling up/down
Rough ride overall inside the car.
My theory:
at this point everything that can flex, move, vibrate, squeak, either is or will be shortly. I believe the weak spot is the super thin sheet metal firewall which a lot of stuff is anchored to. I think this could be contributing to nvh, and the brake pedal feel.
What I've already done w/results
Stop tech brake lines. - helped pedal feel quite a bit. Brakes hardware still feels wobbly but not coming from the wheels.
Group n motor and trans mount. - stiffened up the motor but the pitch stop is stock and seems to be shot.
Rainx on window. - the cleaner I get the window, the worse it squeaks.
Went from 18X8.5 rim to 17X7 with meatier tires. - improved comfort quite a bit on freeway
Switched seats to JDM V7 STi seats. - greatly improved comfort.
Whats next? Feel free to make suggestions.
Brake feel & engine pitch:
If my theory about the firewall is correct, brake master brace, and engine pitch stop mods should help with this. I'm looking at the Perrin brake master brace and the kartboy pitch stop to stiffen things up with the least nvh.
Clunking suspension:
I discovered the springs I'm running are missing some padding and will need to be replaced. I will lower the car with a spring strut combo but don't want to eat tires. Is the only other thing I need camber plates? I want to lower the car while staying in oem camber spec if possible.
Squeaky windows:
I have no clue what to do to fix this. Any ideas?
rough ride:
Whiteline steering rack bushings to tighten up steering.
Turn in concepts shift bushing kit to tighten up shifting.
I feel like the above fixes will dramatically improve the ride quality and reduce the weird sounds. Other than what I've suggested, what have you done to quiet down and enhance the ride comfort of your vehicle? Would you recommend different parts than those I'm looking at? Any other bushings or brackets worth reinforcing or replacing?
Thanks for reading if you made it this far.
Current Symptoms:
brake pedal not as solid as I would like it to be.
Engine pitch seems clunky and rattle is audible while driving.
Clunking when I hit bumps.
Windows squeak loudly when rolling up/down
Rough ride overall inside the car.
My theory:
at this point everything that can flex, move, vibrate, squeak, either is or will be shortly. I believe the weak spot is the super thin sheet metal firewall which a lot of stuff is anchored to. I think this could be contributing to nvh, and the brake pedal feel.
What I've already done w/results
Stop tech brake lines. - helped pedal feel quite a bit. Brakes hardware still feels wobbly but not coming from the wheels.
Group n motor and trans mount. - stiffened up the motor but the pitch stop is stock and seems to be shot.
Rainx on window. - the cleaner I get the window, the worse it squeaks.
Went from 18X8.5 rim to 17X7 with meatier tires. - improved comfort quite a bit on freeway
Switched seats to JDM V7 STi seats. - greatly improved comfort.
Whats next? Feel free to make suggestions.
Brake feel & engine pitch:
If my theory about the firewall is correct, brake master brace, and engine pitch stop mods should help with this. I'm looking at the Perrin brake master brace and the kartboy pitch stop to stiffen things up with the least nvh.
Clunking suspension:
I discovered the springs I'm running are missing some padding and will need to be replaced. I will lower the car with a spring strut combo but don't want to eat tires. Is the only other thing I need camber plates? I want to lower the car while staying in oem camber spec if possible.
Squeaky windows:
I have no clue what to do to fix this. Any ideas?
rough ride:
Whiteline steering rack bushings to tighten up steering.
Turn in concepts shift bushing kit to tighten up shifting.
I feel like the above fixes will dramatically improve the ride quality and reduce the weird sounds. Other than what I've suggested, what have you done to quiet down and enhance the ride comfort of your vehicle? Would you recommend different parts than those I'm looking at? Any other bushings or brackets worth reinforcing or replacing?
Thanks for reading if you made it this far.
Last edited by johndabrit; 06-17-2012 at 07:32 PM. Reason: Added two bushing kits.
06-17-2012, 06:44 PM
#2
Technical Know-It-All
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sterling, VA
Posts: 2,123
Car Info: '02 WRX + '15 WRX
You don't need camber plates, just new top hats.
My recommendation is to replace as many suspension bushings as you can. That will make a major difference in how the car drives.
My recommendation is to replace as many suspension bushings as you can. That will make a major difference in how the car drives.
06-17-2012, 07:59 PM
#11
Technical Know-It-All
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Sterling, VA
Posts: 2,123
Car Info: '02 WRX + '15 WRX
06-17-2012, 08:02 PM
#13
Da Brit.
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 2,808
Car Info: http://tinyurl.com/3vo4362
Right. But what about after I get lowering springs and matching struts. What is needed in front and rear to get back in camber spec at that point? Let's say 2" drop.
06-17-2012, 08:13 PM
#15
Your stock camber bolts would do the trick. I would recommend just going with group N strut tops all the way around. then get some good springs (RCE, swift) with some quality struts(tokico, sti revalved by feal or koni inserts)