wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the info. I can see clearly what the problem is - I just bought the wrong springs. Additionally, I opted to not convert to the '04-'07 setup in the rear and got the '02-'03 Group-N top-hats, so a bit more of wasted money there.

Looks like to correct this, I would need to do the following:

1. Purchase '04-'07 rear top-hats
2. Purchase springs using method known as "the right way" (Swift Spec-R)
3. Do the needfulls
4. Get another alignment

Problem is, now that I have seen how low these are, I am not sure they are right for me. I really like everything that was said about the spring rates and such, so I am still open to doing that. I will say the drop LOOKS awesome, especially with the STi BBS on there. I am just not sure if it's right for the "nasty" bad roads I am on, let alone the twisties where the ride height can be a problem. Last problem is that's something like $300+ for even more springs, $250 for the top-hats, and then another alignment (last was around $260). Even if I get excited to do all that work, it's going to be a while.

I did firm up the Koni's for the drive home (1 turn from soft now) and they were better, noticeably. I was getting a bit of a "bouncy-bounce" on harder stops some times which should be controlled by the dampers.

I was a little out of it yesterday morning when you were asking about alignment specs and such, but I have it all noted on the sheet I got from Custom Alignment. I will check it out and report back probably tonight.

LxJLthr

iTrader: (12)

I have a set you can have for cheap (a LOT less than $250 ). Left over from one of the suspension variations I was playing around with.

JelloChex

iTrader: (6)

Ha, no worries. I was surprised I had as much energy as I did throughout the day based on how little sleep I actually got the night before.

An option you may want to consider is if you do end up switching out the springs at some point then you may want to go with a set of Ground Controls. That way you can get the higher rates to go along with the ability to adjust the ride height to the given situations.

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

Alignment info:

Caster:
L: 4.6*
R: 4.7*

Camber:

LF: -1.8*
RF: -1.8*
LR: -1.4*
RR: -1.4*

Toe:

LF: 1/32"
RF: 1/32"
LR: 1/16"
RR: 1/16"

That's pretty much it.

Sweet - stock Subaru or Group-N? I think with the '04-'07 it does not matter so much though. My price was based on the Group-N.

That's probably what I will end up doing. I will need help figuring out spring rates though.

LxJLthr

iTrader: (12)

Opps, should have been obvious Mine are stock Subaru.

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

No worries! I was not all that clear in my post. I'll reach out if I end up going that way.

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

While swapping out my front endlinks, I grabbed this pic of the bottom of my RF strut..



I guess that is confirmation of my bottoming out, and leaves me also wondering where my D-Rex strut extenders ended up.

Heedz

iTrader: (51)

youre bottoming out konis???

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

Yeah took it out again on Friday and had a weird experience with it bottoming out again. Gonna just park it for a while until I figure out what I want to do with it. I guess these springs are just too soft, but seems odd still. Also I guess my extenders did not get installed so I want to see about that. Not sure if the extra travel would help my issue but it wouldn't hurt.

Bummer. It's totally fine and really fun to drive until you start getting a little into it. So it would be great for a daily driver w/ 80-100 less hp.

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

Well, it's been a while but I think I have learned a few things. As part of the broken wheel I experienced, the Koni insert on that side also popped through the bottom of the strut housing. I will post a pic if I can find it, but basically it looked like the bottom of a Koni poking through the strut with the screw/cap/washer still there.

My D-Rex strut extenders had not yet been installed, so the struts were removed and taken apart, the holes in the bottom cleaned up to allow the threaded end to poke through the bottom of the housing and the insert body to rest on the "ridge" of the remaining bottom of the strut. Now that it's all back together, it seems like this is really the way to do it, not just for strut travel but for strength. It seems weird to think that the way you put it together, you end up with the Koni sitting on the bottom of the housing with all it's weight on a small portion of the bottom of the strut housing. With the extenders, the strut insert sits flat against the bottom of the strut housing, and when the bolt is tightened, it basically pinches the bottom of the strut housing between the insert and the extender. Seems much stronger. The same is probably true for people that use washers instead of the extenders.

So far the only concern with the D-Rex extenders is that it places the bolt at the bottom of the strut very close to - almost touching - the clamp on the axle-side of the outter boot when the suspension is at full-droop. Took a pic of this too. There is plenty of space once there is some weight on the suspension, so it should not be a problem.

Another major annoyance is the cracking noise that the Com-C strut top bearings make. The RH side was making a lot of noise and now it's quiet but the LH side is making the same noise. These are the updated 2013 models with the Koyo bearings and they still make noise.

It's a bit like this:

Note - that is NOT my car or my video.

It sounds like this is pretty common with these, and that it may have to do with the increased angle added by the ALK when combined with these strut tops. Not sure. No real choice but to put them back in though I do have some stock strut tops in great shape I am considering using. Probably look for some Group-N tops and get some camber bolts and be done.

Some people have noted that the increased angle added when used in max negative camber mode brings the spring too close to the shock tower and it ends up hitting a captive nut in there, but this is not the case with mine.

The last odd thing is that it seems as though the Swift Sport springs do not fit in the spring perches too well, especially at the top. It looks almost as if the top perch is rotating a little bit but not sure about that yet.

Hoping to have the car back on the road tomorrow to just put some miles on it.

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

Drove it to work today. Pretty sweet to be able to drive my car again. Those strut tops make a ton of noise and it's not a nice noise. Not sure what I am going to do, will return them if I can.

I'm going to set my struts based on recommendations from Koni that I read a while back but basically something like 1.25 turns from soft, put my back seat in and just put some miles on it. 67,480 miles as of today.

CharT

iTrader: (3)

Got front axles replaced and new tires on my 03 wagon and started falling in love all over. I have ProDrive springs with Konis and DREX extenders but had cut my bump stops before getting the extenders. In hindsight, I should've replaced with full bumps tops when I put the extenders in. But no bottoming out issues as far as I know in over 60k miles.

Now, my latest adventure is figuring out what to do with stuck tie rods. Can't get a wheel alignment because of that. Gotta love old Subies; 150k miles and counting on mine.

As for strut tops, I used Group N tops after my camber plates fell apart. No regrets with Group N stuff.

JelloChex

iTrader: (6)

If you are still on stock tie rods, replace them. I highly recommend going with the Whiteline RCA Kit (especially since you are already lowered).

Whiteline Front Roll-Center Adjustment Kit - Subaru

wombatsauce

iTrader: (7)

Those are on my list as well. Had hoped to do an '04 STi rack at the same time but might just get them as soon as I can since I need to swap out the top hats anyway.

You didn't have any problems with your Com-C top hats right? I have read a few threads about them now. Not sure what the deal is. Sounds like the bearing is binding especially when used with ALK.

CharT

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the tip! I ordered them last night. Now, to order inner tie rods and boots.