paulpas

I have a 97 Outback that has a Phase II block with 60k miles on it and Phase I DOHC heads that were ported/polished, 3-angle valve job, increased valve lift, milled, and racing valve springs.

After driving from Chicago to San Diego and back I decided that I lack power up those mountain passes when fully loaded. I need forced induction. I have a tuner from 034efi.com (I'm an Audi buff at heart) who has a lot of experience and passion about turboing EJ25's but that will run a pretty penny for a quality custom system. What is the most recent opinion on a cheap kit. I'm trying to maintain the sleeper appeal so I'm invisible on ricer radar, but I want at least 250hp for those jaunts on the interstate.

What is the current defacto cheap, yet realiable setup? How do you guys recommend I manage the power? I beleive I use the MAP (whatever is the older style of air meter) so how does that affect me?

darkonion

iTrader: (31)

Sell your car, buy a WRX.

I've said this on multiple parts on the forum. There is no cost efficient way to pull more power out of the NA engine. Keyword, cost-efficient. There are turbo kits available for $3000, $3500. Some people say you can slowly collect parts and do it as little as $1500, but let's be realistic... You won't be able to a buy a newer car.

Hypothetically,

Kit - $3000
Your car - $3000 or so..., maybe more.

Total - $6000+

You are more than half way to a car that is 5 years newer than your's.

The main problem with the kits, in general, is that NA engines won't take more than 5 or 6 psi. Sure... you can pull more out of it, but 5 or 6 psi is toeing it. This might not be as significant to you, but for me, turboing my car would be a waste of money.

paulpas

You're beating a dead horse with that comment. I've already considered this. I'm doing this for the technical challenge and peronal satisfaction. I don't want to invest time into a new car, I want to make due with what I have.

Back on topic, a 'kit' isn't necessary, but the parts I'd need to source would be. 5-6psi is adequate for the power I'm looking for so I'm good with that. Phase II blocks can handle 11psi max anyways. If I could find a RS with no engine, I'd definitely be willing to transplant, but I have to make due with what I have. And with what I have, I would like some more opinions. Thank you for yours.

Could I get OE parts from a EJ25T WRX and use aftermarket management to make them play nicely together? I have equal length headers, and I hope to still be able to use them. Does that mean I will be mounting the hot side on the headers instead of in the engine bay with an up-pipe? Inquerying minds want to know what's the most up to date method these days.