STi4WRC

iTrader: (1)

Lately I have had a problem with taking off my tires after the last session of a track day. More than one stud has stripped in the lug nut. Fortunatley I was able to get my track tires off and streets put back on using the four good studs. I know the easy answer is wait until things cool down. But is there something else I'm missing? Obviously race teams don't wait until things cool down before changing tires. The lugs coming off are real damn hot. You can't hold them in your hand. Would different studs and lug nuts make a difference? Right now I have the stock STi studs and lug nuts on the car. I have not had this problem before. But I have had issues two of the last three track days. I even replaced all the studs after the first incident. And I know they say to never use an anti-sieze on the studs, but why? Most torque wrenches that most people use are off calibration by more than the difference an anti-sieze would make. Any ideas?

STi4WRC

iTrader: (1)

So far I think I will go with me damaging the studs while pulling them in. I had them in dry ice for a 1/2 an hour then pulled them in, but now that I think about it, it was way more than 72 ft/lbs required to pull the studs in. I realize that they would need to be higher than 72 ft/lbs so they don't spin when tightening the lug nuts. But I was way over 72 ft/lbs. So I think I will replace them all again by pressing them in some how. And use a little anti-sieze also.

SR20steve

iTrader: (2)

Your studs are galling. I like to put some high temp anti-seize on those threads to keep them from galling. I used to have that problem ALLOT on my old SE-R. At work I use Ramco 2400 on all of our very hot service threads and it works very well. I can't find a link for the ramco but here is some other 2400 nickel based high temp anti-seize. Don't use regular anti-seize its pretty much worthless and turns to powder at high temps.

http://www.allraceoil.com/wurthni2400.html