Your alignment... looking to set mine up for agressive street and light track days.
#1
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Your alignment... looking to set mine up for agressive street and light track days.
Hi all,
I am going to have my alignment done after installing new control arms from Perrin as well as Perrin's PSRS (Positive Stearing Response System) and was wondering how you all recomend the alignment settings.
Here is my plan:
Camber in front: -1.5
Camber in Rear: -1.2
Toe front: 0
Toe rear: 0
Just wondering what you all have...
I am going to have my alignment done after installing new control arms from Perrin as well as Perrin's PSRS (Positive Stearing Response System) and was wondering how you all recomend the alignment settings.
Here is my plan:
Camber in front: -1.5
Camber in Rear: -1.2
Toe front: 0
Toe rear: 0
Just wondering what you all have...
#2
those are probably ok, I have an 04 sti and I run 1 degree in the front w/ no toe and the back straight up. I have done this for a compromise b/t track day and tread wear. having all your settings neg'd out will not allow you to rotate your tires and wear them out evenly. I actually have the stockers for track days and run some enkies black rims w/ slightly taller 50 series rubber for day to day driving. If you are real aggressive all to time maybe neg'd out is for you but at the track you really need race compound tires to use the camber and heat your tires evenly. fyi
#3
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On the flip side of what Doug posted is my setup:
-2.5 camber up front, -1.7 in the rear, 0 toe all the way around.
I run R compounds on the track and an agressive street tire (Azensi RT615's). My STi is not a daily driver so I'm not as concerned about tire wear.
If you're looking for a compromise, then the settings you posted should work. I would go with -1.0 in the rear though (and you may not be able to get more than that anyway depending on your suspension setup).
-2.5 camber up front, -1.7 in the rear, 0 toe all the way around.
I run R compounds on the track and an agressive street tire (Azensi RT615's). My STi is not a daily driver so I'm not as concerned about tire wear.
If you're looking for a compromise, then the settings you posted should work. I would go with -1.0 in the rear though (and you may not be able to get more than that anyway depending on your suspension setup).
#4
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Originally Posted by Egan
On the flip side of what Doug posted is my setup:
-2.5 camber up front, -1.7 in the rear, 0 toe all the way around.
I run R compounds on the track and an agressive street tire (Azensi RT615's). My STi is not a daily driver so I'm not as concerned about tire wear.
If you're looking for a compromise, then the settings you posted should work. I would go with -1.0 in the rear though (and you may not be able to get more than that anyway depending on your suspension setup).
-2.5 camber up front, -1.7 in the rear, 0 toe all the way around.
I run R compounds on the track and an agressive street tire (Azensi RT615's). My STi is not a daily driver so I'm not as concerned about tire wear.
If you're looking for a compromise, then the settings you posted should work. I would go with -1.0 in the rear though (and you may not be able to get more than that anyway depending on your suspension setup).
#5
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I just had my car set up at Custom Alignment in Sunnyvale, ca. You can check them out at www.customalignment.com The technician, Kevin, sets up the SoobyDude's race car. At first I was skeptical of these settings:
-0.9 camber front 1/16 toe
-1.0 camber rear 1/16 toe
What I found at Laguna Seca last sunday was that the car had an amazing balance. Tire wear on sidewall was less than before when I ran setting closer to -1.4 front -.8 rear with 0 toe.
The car definitely handled a lot better.
-0.9 camber front 1/16 toe
-1.0 camber rear 1/16 toe
What I found at Laguna Seca last sunday was that the car had an amazing balance. Tire wear on sidewall was less than before when I ran setting closer to -1.4 front -.8 rear with 0 toe.
The car definitely handled a lot better.
#6
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Originally Posted by motorider888
I just had my car set up at Custom Alignment in Sunnyvale, ca. You can check them out at www.customalignment.com The technician, Kevin, sets up the SoobyDude's race car. At first I was skeptical of these settings:
-0.9 camber front 1/16 toe
-1.0 camber rear 1/16 toe
What I found at Laguna Seca last sunday was that the car had an amazing balance. Tire wear on sidewall was less than before when I ran setting closer to -1.4 front -.8 rear with 0 toe.
The car definitely handled a lot better.
-0.9 camber front 1/16 toe
-1.0 camber rear 1/16 toe
What I found at Laguna Seca last sunday was that the car had an amazing balance. Tire wear on sidewall was less than before when I ran setting closer to -1.4 front -.8 rear with 0 toe.
The car definitely handled a lot better.
#7
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Originally Posted by depdivr
Hi all,
I am going to have my alignment done after installing new control arms from Perrin
I am going to have my alignment done after installing new control arms from Perrin
#8
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Originally Posted by lovesmysuby04
Has Perrin finaly finished their control arms? I guess they havent updated their website.
Like I said before, we were able to get the Perrin PSRS installed day before yesterday and yielded outstanding results. You notice a major difference in your handling as you rip the car out of turns at high throttle. Before, I would see significant push (understear) as I accelerated out of turns even though I had already tuned with swaybars to give a slight overstear and sharp turn in at the begining of the turn. With the PSRS, I am able to accelerate earlier in the turn without worry of pushing the car off the track after the apex. Overall rating: Thumbs Up!
#9
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I had an -ahem- unorthodox alignment on my Suby. -2 degrees front, -2.5 rear, 3/16 toe out front, 1/8 toe out rear. The car turned in very quickly and stuck. The toe out made the rear want to rotate without sliding, and the camber kept the tires planted when cornering. It was actually a very neutral but grippy setup.
#10
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Originally Posted by BAN SUVS
I had an -ahem- unorthodox alignment on my Suby. -2 degrees front, -2.5 rear, 3/16 toe out front, 1/8 toe out rear. The car turned in very quickly and stuck. The toe out made the rear want to rotate without sliding, and the camber kept the tires planted when cornering. It was actually a very neutral but grippy setup.
#11
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Nah, I had a set of Dunlop WinterSport M2s last 30,000 miles with that alignment, almost entirely on dry highways. I had a habit of sliding and drifting and generally mistreating my track/autocross tires, but they always lasted me quite a while. I only totally wore out one set of tires, and that was with the factory alignment, which caused me to spec this one. It was the only alignment I ever got actually. There are two theorys that could explain my good tire wear. One is the "cone" theory- properly combining toe out with extra camber makes rolling the wheel kind of like rolling a very shallow cone. The other is that by driving hard frequently and using all that camber and toe, then during the driving that really wears on the car the contact patch is mostly flat anyway.
#12
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Originally Posted by BAN SUVS
Nah, I had a set of Dunlop WinterSport M2s last 30,000 miles with that alignment, almost entirely on dry highways. I had a habit of sliding and drifting and generally mistreating my track/autocross tires, but they always lasted me quite a while. I only totally wore out one set of tires, and that was with the factory alignment, which caused me to spec this one. It was the only alignment I ever got actually. There are two theorys that could explain my good tire wear. One is the "cone" theory- properly combining toe out with extra camber makes rolling the wheel kind of like rolling a very shallow cone. The other is that by driving hard frequently and using all that camber and toe, then during the driving that really wears on the car the contact patch is mostly flat anyway.
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