Recently installed set of Tein Flex on my '05 wagon and am VERY happy with the improvment. As comfortable (or more) as stock (at least on smooth asphalt) and much more solid ride with a lot more "stability" at higher speeds and "consistency and confidence" in handling.

I initially set them on the softest settings and have not yet had the opportunity to do any experimenting with different settings. I also have a track day coming up in a few weeks.

Clearly, tires and other suspension mods and settings play a MAJOR role in overall handling and comfort, but I was curious as to what other Flex users are doing as far as dampening settings.

I'd like to hear what people use for their "normal" or STREET settings, as well as what CHANGES (if any) you might make before an AUTO-X or a TRACK day.

you might also reference any specific mods you have which would significantly influence the overall feel of your ride (e.g., very stiff/soft tall/short sidewalls, extreme swaybars, unusual bushings, etc.)

thanks.
norm

 

I'm curious as well. I've got some slightly used Tein Flex's coming this week with the EDFC that I plan to have installed on my '04 wagon. I probably won't use the car that much as a daily driver. Just weekend "spirited" driving and 5-6 track days this year to improve my driving skill.

Currently, I've been running on Prodrive Springs/AGX struts, so I'm assuming from what I've read that the ride on the Tein's will be more harsh on some of Sacramento's crappy roads. Other suspension mods include:

Whiteline 24mm adjustable RSB with endlinks
Whiteline ALK
Whiteline Steering Rack Bushings
Falken Azeni's on 17" Rota Tarmac II's.

Norm-I'm glad you like the ride in them. I can hardly get my girlfriend to ride in the wagon now. With the Teins, unless I get a softer spring, I'm sure I won't be driving her to the grocery in the wagon very often. <grin>

I have read that the adjustment from the EDFC isn't really that large between full soft and full hard. Oh-one bit of advice I have been given and happy to pass along is to make sure the car is properly corner balanced and weighted, along with a good alignment, to make the most out of the switch to the coilovers.

Regards, Keith

 

I did have an alignment after the install. They were supposedly set to "stock" specs.

Since I am going to change the ride height a bit, (plan to raise rear 1/8-1/4") I think I may spring for another alignment make sure toe-ins are 0 and have them add a little + camber up front (and whatever they can get from rear). Long before the coilovers I added the Perrin PSSR (= Whiteline ALK) and was very impressed with the improvemnt. The only potential downside to the ALK/PSSR is that it changes your class for SCCA auto-X (b/c it modifies castor angles) and places you against cars which you prob can't realistically be competitive with (if that matters to you).

As far as corner weighting, it's fairly spendy and I'm not sure that it is really that necessary. Especially since just changing the amount of gas in the tank or any cargo (spare tire, jack, passenger) will change things. I guess it might be useful just for track days/auto-X (where things can be more controlled), but in general, it seems like it is ONLY really an issue when you are driving in that "9+/10" region at the limits. (which is true for many of the suspension mods we do- even things like strut tower braces, which prob don't make any difference in day-to-day driving, but DO make a difference in that "edge of control" area). Since I try to NOT to do that kind of driving on the street (which is 95% of my driving) , where mistakes are far less tolerated and their are SO many variables , it probably wouldn't make much difference for me.

For the serious racer, corner weighting can be justified and prob does make a difference, especially since things are much more controlled. In that "danger zone" of control (9+/10), even minor changes prob make a difference b/c every part/variable is being pushed to its limit. That's the whole point of approaching/reaching (and occ crossing) the limit! I've found (more than once)that crossing that limit on the street can get very expensive (and embarassing and hard to explain)

norm

 

Very good info. Thanks.

Unfortunately for me, the "taste" of track driving in HPDE's, as well as having succumbed to a clear case of "mod fever", has outpaced my previous brief experience in Auto-X (STX).

If I Auto-X this year, it'll definitely have to be in something like SM. Since I would have no chance of winning in that class, I would only go for the learning experience and the camraderie of talking to other auto enthusiasts there.

Like you, I've learned long ago not to push close to any limit on the streets. I have too much respect for the law and other people's safety for that. Most of my street driving is a nice trip down into the Delta or up to Icehouse Road/Wentworth Springs in the Sierra when the weather is nice. I think that going to 5-6 HPDE events in a year's time will be all the "thrill" I need, as well as give me the type of instruction that I need to become a better driver.

If, after a year, I have an even greater "bug" for the track, I'll consider getting a competition license and perhaps indulge in a bit of racing later. However, given what I've spent on the Subie already, I don't need an even more expensive hobby such as amateur racing. <grin>

PS-My apologies for apparently "hijacking" the thread by moving to different subjects.

 

I'm getting my used flexes this weekend as well, I was looking for used because I didn't want to spend a lot of time breaking them in. Just curious though as to what spring rates you guys have just for daily driving. Any advice would help.

 

What do you mean by softest setting? Do you have it turned all the way to the softest? the menu suggest that you not turn it all the way to the softest and have at least 6 clicks away or something from the end.

I have the Flex and it's hella stiff to me.