Rounded off hex nuts on StopTech calipers, what should I do?
05-09-2003, 08:44 AM
#1
Rounded off hex nuts on StopTech calipers, what should I do?
I was trying to take out the two hex bolts that hold the bridge into place above the pads and ended up rounding off one nut on each caliper. Is there any special tool that one can use to get a grip on them? I thought these would be harder to round.
Can I just ignore them and replace the pads from the inside of the caliper or is it necessary to take the bridge out and drop the pads in through the gap? Thanks for any help.
Can I just ignore them and replace the pads from the inside of the caliper or is it necessary to take the bridge out and drop the pads in through the gap? Thanks for any help.
05-09-2003, 01:18 PM
#2
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re: rounded off hex nuts on Stop Tech calipers, what should i do?
go to sears. they make and sell nut removal tools for rounded off nuts. basically, it's a normal looking socket that has sharp teeth on the inside to grip the rounded off edges of the nut without harming the stud or bolt that the nut is threaded onto, like a nut splitter would.
depening on how much torque was applied to the nuts to get them on in the first place, you might need to get the nut removers designed for use with a pneumatic impact wrench.
depening on how much torque was applied to the nuts to get them on in the first place, you might need to get the nut removers designed for use with a pneumatic impact wrench.
05-12-2003, 08:53 AM
#3
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It's a little too late to tell you this, now that you've munged up a bridge bolt on each caliper, but this may save you next time. When installing pads on a StopTech kit, it's a good idea to apply a tiny bit of Permatex anti-seize paste on the threads and to put a thin film on the long shaft of the bolt. When you tighten them, keep in mind that they are under spring pressure and you only need to screw them in until they stop. VERY gently snug them up to make sure they won't go any further but don't tighten them. The official torque spec is 8 lb-ft.
It's important to make sure your 5mm Allen bit is fully inserted into the bridge bolt before you try to turn it. These things are hard to strip out. I'm assuming you either used the wrong tool or it wasn't fully inserted and was at a slight angle.
You're not too far away from me. If you don't mind making the trip across the river and over to NJ, I'm sure I can help you. And I have a supply of extra bridge bolts to replace the stripped ones.
It's important to make sure your 5mm Allen bit is fully inserted into the bridge bolt before you try to turn it. These things are hard to strip out. I'm assuming you either used the wrong tool or it wasn't fully inserted and was at a slight angle.
You're not too far away from me. If you don't mind making the trip across the river and over to NJ, I'm sure I can help you. And I have a supply of extra bridge bolts to replace the stripped ones.
05-12-2003, 04:54 PM
#4
DZeck, thanks for the offer, maybe I'll take you up on it after my swap, a bit busy right now. I used a 5mm key and it was in there, they were just really really tight. I bought them used, but I would have put anti-seize if I was the original owner. First thing I did when I got the other two out was put antiseize on them.
05-22-2003, 05:55 PM
#5
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Originally posted by garface
DZeck, thanks for the offer, maybe I'll take you up on it after my swap, a bit busy right now. I used a 5mm key and it was in there, they were just really really tight. I bought them used, but I would have put anti-seize if I was the original owner. First thing I did when I got the other two out was put antiseize on them.
DZeck, thanks for the offer, maybe I'll take you up on it after my swap, a bit busy right now. I used a 5mm key and it was in there, they were just really really tight. I bought them used, but I would have put anti-seize if I was the original owner. First thing I did when I got the other two out was put antiseize on them.
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