yeah i am gonna order the cusco 3way adjustable rearsway and the helix pillowball endlinks.

 

Actually for those saying don’t upgrade the front, I recently put a Perrin adjustable front sway bar on and the car feels a lot better. It is way more planted in turns with less body roll and better turn in. I have the front on the softest setting while the rear is on the stiffest and there isn’t anymore understeer then before, but a lot more front grip. I would go with a rear w/ endlinks for now and eventually upgrade to a front as well.

 

thanks bro, sounds great.
i have heard way too many good things about the sway bars to ignore their possibilities.

 

Look into an ALK. Helps to reduce understeer under power on corner exit. On my WRX ('02 Wagon) the ALK made a bigger difference than the 20mm sedan rear swaybar.

 

yeah thats on the list of the handling mods i want..
sways/endlinks, camberplates, lsd, ALK... so many things but thats the fun of cars right

 

so many parts, so little cash... at least your car came with a stereo in it :P

 

Doesnt the spec-c not have a front sway bar?

You dont need a front bar, ifyou want, just go with a larger rear bar. 20-22mm should be fine.

 

Ok im going to admit I did not read every post. But I see a lot of answers are quite similar, I would just like to add my two cents.

To answer the posters question . The quick and easy answer is, as everyone else has said, a rear sway bar. That is the answer to your question. Adding a rear sway will either reduce or remove your cars inate nature to understeer. Weather that is a good thing or a bad thing has yet to be determined.

All the handling mods in the world couldn’t make a bad driver good. But a good driver can make a horrible car fun. I know most people who post here would rate themselves better drivers then most. And this might be true. The simple fact that you want to push your car to the limit provides enough evidence that you are more aware of what’s going on then someone who uses there car to get from point A to point B. sadly, this is not enough to actually make you a good driver. The suggestion I would give to ANYONE who wants to put money into there car, for the sole purpose to driving it fast, is spend the first $1500 bucks you would spend on mods on a couple days of professionally instructed class. I would say Skip Barber Racing School is very good. I used to work for them, my cousin who is a professional drifter still instructs for them. They have a very good, well planed out set of class’s and a very very talented and friendly staff. Save the money, and do a driving school, you don’t need a 3 day racing school.

I personally wouldn’t even dream of spending money on handling mods until I crest at least 300 wheel horsepower. There isn’t any need. My WRX is my street car. It will only ever be driven on the street. I have no inclination what so ever to track this car. In its current stock shape, there are very very few places on the road I can overdrive this cars suspension. That doesn’t mean I don’t occasionally understeer, it doesn’t mean I don’t get the thing lit. it simply means there is not enough ***** to warrant better suspension. Yet.

So in conclusion, after this incredibly drawn out post, I would start saving for some classes. Come down here to Seca and do a SBRS driving school. You will learn about braking, and how to use your inputs correctly, and you get to do a time trial around an auto cross in a viper. And then after that, you will sit in a neon and do a 7/10th track tour. Everything I posted above will become clear during this track tour. You will go around Seca in a bone stock neon in a time you could not possibly fathom. And it is then you will realize how much difference the driver makes.



The quality of the box matters little. Success ultimately depends upon the man who sits in it.

 

The Spec C doesn’t have a front Sub Frame. About the ALK, I recently installed one of those (you guessed it, Perrin's version) and so far I cant really tell much difference. The only time I could feel it was on a bigger turn when I floored it out and it didn’t lift up and cause understeer, as much as it used too. That is what there meant to do though. I will see fore sure when it drys up and the track days start. If your car is just for street, I am not to sure you really need an ALK. The Perrin one has really solid bushings and it makes the ride a lot harsher, yes, even more so then adding coilovers as I have both on my car. If you can handle that by all means get one, but if you want a nicer ride I would stay away from it as it only shows its true identity at the track.

I dunno about that one. I guess it really depends on how you drive your car, but I dont think I would ever drive a wrx with 300whp without any kind of suspension. I would upgrade at least the springs and sway bars before I got anywhere near 300whp. I guess it really does depend on how you drive your car to find the righ suspension for you.

 

If you want to do autocrossing, ALK will put you in a mod class which you will get your *** handed to you. So no ALK if you plan to autox your car.

 

c'mon dude the wrx is unbeatable j/k but if i autocross its not gonna be so much to compete its gonna be more for my own enjoyment and ya bit of competition.

but i plan on doing more track then autox but i dont know camber and ALK and all that is far away.. i just want a nice suspension and turboback/upipe vf34 and the requirements for that and some other stuff. after i hit about 270whp i will be happy and go crazy on the handling mods. but for now its just helix dna sport coilovers and sways. i expect to have my sti turbo and injectors and fuel pump with the exhaust and handling mods by april with this new job im starting. but again its still time away. not till then will i even really think about ALK and camber. unless someone can say why i shouldnt. thats the plan.

 

If you already have helix coilovers theres no need for front camber plates as they come with the coilovers. Just get yourself a good alignment when you get the suspension installed.

 

Me too.. though using the middle rear setting on my wagon. Made a huge improvement, though I did discover that with 100 pounds of Costco stuff in the back, it WILL step out on you fairly easily. After feeling that, perhaps the cheapest way to reduce understeer is to put a couple bags of cement in the trunk

 

good point, im thinking stock struts heh.

 

Just out of curiosity, isn't the sedan swaybar a 20mm? The wagon is 18 correct?