Killing understeer
Get the adjustable cusco sway, that way you can change as you get better and the car gets modded. Also, change out the front endlinks. Unfortunately, Cusco doesn't make endlinks so you'll have to go w/ another brand, which is a whole new can of worms. Which ones the best? Well, opinions are like *******s, everybody has one.
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yeah i think cusco is the way i will go with the helix pillowball endlinks..
what about front camber plates? think that would be a good upgrade eventually for tracking?
what about front camber plates? think that would be a good upgrade eventually for tracking?
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Car Info: 2004 WRX STi, 1999 Forester L
Originally Posted by evsoul
yeah i think cusco is the way i will go with the helix pillowball endlinks..
what about front camber plates? think that would be a good upgrade eventually for tracking?
what about front camber plates? think that would be a good upgrade eventually for tracking?
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From: Northern Bay Area: Larkspur
Car Info: 02 Silver WRX sedan. Eibach springs, Blitz NUR cat back, Rota 17" Attacks, Cobb AccessPort/DP
I'm using cobbs sway bars front and back. Rear is set at the first (easiest) setting. The car couldn't be more neutral. It's almost not fun to drive because it's so predictable. But safe.
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Originally Posted by ish
ignore roo, you don't need to do the front at the same time as well. Just the rear is fine. I suggest getting one of the adjustable rear sways and then you can test out different settings and see what feels/works for you the best.
I didn't say he had to do the front at the same time. I merely stated that if he goes with a 23mm bar, WITHOUT upgrading the front...he'd better learn how to drive. The non-adjustable 23mm bar (at the limit) WILL CAUSE SNAP OVERSTEER. You know that, though, don't you?
I merely suggested he start out with a smaller rear sway bar which will bring the handling a lot closer to neutral. Once he feels he can control that within the limits of his driving, then he can either move larger, or not.
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Easiest ways to control understeer:
1. Buy a GC8
2. Handbrake
3. Let off the Gas mid turn till fronts regain grip(This is where you'll get full use of them swaybars)
4.Tap brakes/Left foot brake mid apex(this will induce less oversteer than just letting off)
2. and 3. are usually all I need to get the job done....
1. Buy a GC8
2. Handbrake
3. Let off the Gas mid turn till fronts regain grip(This is where you'll get full use of them swaybars)
4.Tap brakes/Left foot brake mid apex(this will induce less oversteer than just letting off)
2. and 3. are usually all I need to get the job done....
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yes get end links too cus the stock ones are weak
i did front and rear bars and endlinks and the understeer is under control
plus a track day a thunder hill with some pro instructors helped too
i did front and rear bars and endlinks and the understeer is under control
plus a track day a thunder hill with some pro instructors helped too
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Originally Posted by STi-FTW
Save your money so you can spend it on a day of school at thill or sears point. I'm going to try to make it at some point this year. I mean if you have the cash to blow on pilotti shoes...

and like stated before driving school wont stall the understeer it will help you control it.. and id like a bit less of that to have to control.. or for it to not be so prominent. i dont see anything wrong with upgrading my sways and endlinks while i wait to take lessons this spring.
atleast its more useful than your diamond plate floor mats
Last edited by evsoul; Jan 2, 2006 at 12:45 PM.
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Originally Posted by joltdudeuc
20mm comes stock....
23mm would give him that balance you speak of
23mm would give him that balance you speak of
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dont increase the front at all... if anything, put a smaller one in there.
23mm on the back wil be fine, and still not close to neutral, but will respond alot better.
23mm on the back wil be fine, and still not close to neutral, but will respond alot better.
evsoul - I would recommend getting some track time first, then deciding if you really need a rear sway bar or not. You'll discover that track driving is a totally different world. As for me, I felt that I was more comfortable without a rear sway bar or end links.
You don't need new fronts. Just the rear. I've been running my Whiteline 3-way (middle setting) with Helix endlinks in the rear for almost a year now. Helped A LOT in my autocrossing.


