Hey guys/gals,

I just got my alignment done at firestone and here is my current alignment specs:

LF:
camber -0.7
caster 3.5
toe -.02

RF:
camber -.06
caster 1.2
toe -.02

total toe front 0.39
thrust angle -0.13

LR:
camber -1.4
toe 0.00

RR:
camber -.09
toe 0.07

total toe rear 0.07
thrust angle -0.03

I'm on megan racing street coilovers, I'm not slammed but I'm a little low. Thoughts on the alignment as well as how can I fix the caster on my FR wheel? The guy at firestone recommended new control arms.

Thanks

 

When I got an alignment the guy said there was no adjustment for caster on my car. I'm wondering the same thing. Anyway to get caster back to normal after lowering?

 

I don't have any experience with them, but there are caster/camber kits. I'm more curious to find out why your caster has that much of a difference.

 

no caster kit besides an ALK. control arm is my guess. could also be subframe. take it autoinnovations

 

+1. I personally prefer bushing type caster kit. bushing is offset so the more you rotate, the more adj. when lowerin, steering, suspension, handling characteristics are altered and not at factory spec. caster can be from lowering your car, at which point, id reccomend whiteline alk kits

 

Thanks for the responses, forgot to say that my caster was messed up in factory suspension as well! Ill post my alignment before I put the coilovers on the car when I got my alignment at a different place as well

 

you can do a couple of things. one take it to a shop like someone suggested and have them look at it.
second, if you know someone with the same car as yours, year make model just to have an exact reference. jack both up and measure distance between the sub frame at the front (the front of the car portion) and at the rear of sub frame. At the front point of sub frame where control arms bolt up as well. once you get measurements of one car measure other car and you can see where the differences are. you can measure other parts in relations to other fixed parts on known good car and compare as well if its not obvious where damage may have occurred. look at their control arm and see if yours is bent.

 

If you have camber plates, you can rotate them to adjust caster. There are also plates that can adjust both caster and camber.


Question though, why is your camber so much more negative on the left than the right?

 

Caster is adjustable. Loosen the rear control arm mount, there are two bolts. There is a hole behind the mount, insert a long screwdriver and leverage the mount to the front of the car and tighten the bolts while doing so.

 

Awesome!!! Thanks for helping out, I'll check it out after I try to adjust it as jdblock suggested.

I have front camber plates that came with the megans, I am pretty unfamiliar with coilovers and didn't know that. I'll take it back to firestone and show them how to adjust it because I think they were unaware as well. And I have no idea why the camber is no different, maybe since my right tire is closer the the door by about an inch and a half. I can put three fingers in the gap between the fender on the door side of the driver side tire and I can even fit two on the passenger side in the same location. Even though it would seem you would was more negative camber on the right given the situation. In other words, NO FN CLUE! LOL


OOH LA LA!!! Thankkkk you so much. I'll check it out tomorrow when I get off work.

 

why not take it to a place that knows how to do an alignment, like i dont know autoinnovations

 

Wait, so you didn't make sure that all of your coil overs are even on each side....?

+, your engrish is da reawwy bad.

 

Because I paid for a lifetime alignment and I intend to use it to the full extent even if I have to teach them to do it myself. I'm not gonna pay 160 and not have them do it right.

screw you damien! lol. Yes I made sure they were even on each side :P My caster was messed up prior to the coilovers being installed

 

Is there is difference in the whiteline ALK and the Perrin P.S.R.S?

 

Those alignment specs stink. There is no reason for the toe. They should all be zeroed.

Also they used the stock camber specs, which suck. You want -2^ front and -1^ rear. Your current specs will induce under steer.