Suspension, Handling, and Brakes Talk about Struts/springs, coilovers, anti-swaybars, strut bars, steering, Pads, fluid, lines, rotors, calipers, boosters, and anything that is brake and suspension related.

Brake Failure -- Dealer to Blame?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 11-24-2008, 04:59 PM
  #46  
banned
iTrader: (13)
 
I<3subie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Walnut Creek Ca..
Posts: 2,746
Car Info: heel'n toe da hoe...
I have seen the same problem on motorcycles. It took a month for it to show like this one did. But it was not from a clamp. Someone didnt adjust the rear master cylinder play. So the rear brake was always dragging. Once the brake fluid turned to vapor. It locked causing what we see in that picture. It even happen to me on one of my Ducati's I let a student adjust my brakes. I was on 680 with a locked rear brake that was on fire. I had to cut the brake line to get it to release as the vapor was holding it at that point.
I had to replace the caliper, wheel bearings, seals, rotor and the brake line. It had been worked on a week before this all happen.
Its possable its been on there a while.

I say use the parts dept. But stay away from sales and service.
I<3subie is offline  
Old 11-24-2008, 05:01 PM
  #47  
banned
iTrader: (13)
 
I<3subie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Walnut Creek Ca..
Posts: 2,746
Car Info: heel'n toe da hoe...
Originally Posted by sigma pi
thats what i said!!!!

but my post wasnt clear at all haha
Ah I could have been drunk too.... lol
I<3subie is offline  
Old 11-24-2008, 05:04 PM
  #48  
9 to 5 mod
iTrader: (6)
 
sigma pi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Chavez Ravine
Posts: 57,386
Car Info: 03 Impreza WRX
Originally Posted by joltdudeuc
you wouldn't. Even after removing the line from a caliper there isn't much fluid that comes out, and to stop it you just tie the line up on the strut... there isn't any pressure in the line.

When I read his first post I thought he said they removed the caliper, but for pads no one would have removed the line...
the bubbles travel up and go far so its a bother to bleed it


i have taken the line off before

but it was for my aftermarket 4 pot BBK there was a huge lip on rotor and i couldnt get the pads pushed back enough
sigma pi is offline  
Old 11-24-2008, 05:05 PM
  #49  
9 to 5 mod
iTrader: (6)
 
sigma pi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Chavez Ravine
Posts: 57,386
Car Info: 03 Impreza WRX
Originally Posted by I<3subie
Ah I could have been drunk too.... lol
you translated what i said

normally WW does his job and does it for me hahah

great minds think alike you and i
sigma pi is offline  
Old 11-24-2008, 05:08 PM
  #50  
9 to 5 mod
iTrader: (6)
 
sigma pi's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Chavez Ravine
Posts: 57,386
Car Info: 03 Impreza WRX
Originally Posted by I<3subie
I have seen the same problem on motorcycles. It took a month for it to show like this one did. But it was not from a clamp. Someone didnt adjust the rear master cylinder play. So the rear brake was always dragging. Once the brake fluid turned to vapor. It locked causing what we see in that picture. It even happen to me on one of my Ducati's I let a student adjust my brakes. I was on 680 with a locked rear brake that was on fire. I had to cut the brake line to get it to release as the vapor was holding it at that point.
I had to replace the caliper, wheel bearings, seals, rotor and the brake line. It had been worked on a week before this all happen.
Its possable its been on there a while.

I say use the parts dept. But stay away from sales and service.
wow high roller duc
sigma pi is offline  
Old 11-24-2008, 05:47 PM
  #51  
I don't need more cowbell dammit!
iTrader: (5)
 
jewpac42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Equally as important as Walter
Posts: 3,203
Car Info: E82
Originally Posted by sigma pi
the bubbles travel up and go far so its a bother to bleed it


i have taken the line off before

but it was for my aftermarket 4 pot BBK there was a huge lip on rotor and i couldnt get the pads pushed back enough
Bleeding for pads isnt necessary, you dont even have to remove the line from the caliper.
jewpac42 is offline  
Old 11-24-2008, 05:52 PM
  #52  
I don't need more cowbell dammit!
iTrader: (5)
 
jewpac42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Equally as important as Walter
Posts: 3,203
Car Info: E82
Originally Posted by I<3subie
I have seen the same problem on motorcycles. It took a month for it to show like this one did. But it was not from a clamp. Someone didnt adjust the rear master cylinder play. So the rear brake was always dragging. Once the brake fluid turned to vapor. It locked causing what we see in that picture. It even happen to me on one of my Ducati's I let a student adjust my brakes. I was on 680 with a locked rear brake that was on fire. I had to cut the brake line to get it to release as the vapor was holding it at that point.
I had to replace the caliper, wheel bearings, seals, rotor and the brake line. It had been worked on a week before this all happen.
Its possable its been on there a while.

I say use the parts dept. But stay away from sales and service.
You say that like you know what happened. You dont know what happened. We have not gotten the entire story from the OP. I know more than most people here who have posted about this situation and I am waiting to see if we will get a truthful answer from the OP about the amount of time and or miles drived until this happened. Also, as Gagan has said, if this were to have happened like the OP stated, when his wheel loked up his car would have turned, violently, to the left, wheels do not lock up at speeds he is talking about while the car stays travelling in a straight line. Also, I find it very difficult to believe he did not smell the caliper or rotor burning, that is a very strong unpleasant odor that if I smelled near my car I would check immediately to be sure nothing is wrong, which he has stated he did not do.



I feel the need to state that I am in no way, shape or form affiliated with Stevens Creek Subaru in any manner what so ever.
jewpac42 is offline  
Old 11-24-2008, 07:19 PM
  #53  
Registered User
iTrader: (57)
 
xhengmanx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: the area
Posts: 7,380
Car Info: 04 impreza wrx R.I.P Daniel Wentz JOEBOBBUCKET
**grabs pop corn and watch the story unfold**
xhengmanx is offline  
Old 11-25-2008, 12:21 AM
  #54  
VIP Member
iTrader: (7)
 
wombatsauce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 7,441
Car Info: 2018 Golf R Variant
Where did the OP say his rear wheel locked? Think about it for a second - if the wheel LOCKED then the brake would not be able to generate the heat that it did. If there were pressure on the brake line then in normal driving, one would not notice this, and the brake on that wheel would not get normal pressure - hence the rusty rotor. When the driver does a panic stop, it's a burst of pressure which could overwhelm the clamp and let the pressure past to the caliper, however could be strong enough to keep enough pressure to generate the heat needed, over time, to cook the rotor and caliper.

I agree that there is no reason to do anything like this just for doing pads, but then I have seen some seriously weird **** come out of quite a few shops I have taken cars to for service in the Bay Area, including a dealer (not this one).

I do not know the real story obviously, just playing devil's advocate here and not sure why some are jumping to conclusions like this. Personally, if I wanted to set fire to a specific caliper for photos - I wouldn't really know how to do that.
wombatsauce is offline  
Old 11-25-2008, 12:23 AM
  #55  
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
 
wrxisthebest's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Arnold, CA
Posts: 9,171
Car Info: 2003 PSM WRX, 80 Brat ready for Chevy 350 Swap.
Originally Posted by wombatsauce
Where did the OP say his rear wheel locked? Think about it for a second - if the wheel LOCKED then the brake would not be able to generate the heat that it did. If there were pressure on the brake line then in normal driving, one would not notice this, and the brake on that wheel would not get normal pressure - hence the rusty rotor. When the driver does a panic stop, it's a burst of pressure which could overwhelm the clamp and let the pressure past to the caliper, however could be strong enough to keep enough pressure to generate the heat needed, over time, to cook the rotor and caliper.

I agree that there is no reason to do anything like this just for doing pads, but then I have seen some seriously weird **** come out of quite a few shops I have taken cars to for service in the Bay Area, including a dealer (not this one).

I do not know the real story obviously, just playing devil's advocate here and not sure why some are jumping to conclusions like this. Personally, if I wanted to set fire to a specific caliper for photos - I wouldn't really know how to do that.
well he got it replaced at Auto HQ... so who evers fault it was, it over now..
wrxisthebest is offline  
Old 11-25-2008, 12:24 AM
  #56  
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
 
wrxisthebest's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Arnold, CA
Posts: 9,171
Car Info: 2003 PSM WRX, 80 Brat ready for Chevy 350 Swap.




awesome reason to get steel braided hoses... can't be pressed like that
wrxisthebest is offline  
Old 11-25-2008, 12:31 AM
  #57  
VIP Member
iTrader: (7)
 
wombatsauce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Stockholm
Posts: 7,441
Car Info: 2018 Golf R Variant
Originally Posted by jewpac42
Also, as Gagan has said, if this were to have happened like the OP stated, when his wheel loked up his car would have turned, violently, to the left, wheels do not lock up at speeds he is talking about while the car stays travelling in a straight line. Also, I find it very difficult to believe he did not smell the caliper or rotor burning, that is a very strong unpleasant odor that if I smelled near my car I would check immediately to be sure nothing is wrong, which he has stated he did not do.



I feel the need to state that I am in no way, shape or form affiliated with Stevens Creek Subaru in any manner what so ever.
Again, it never says the wheel locked. He says "the brake stayed locked" but I think he meant "clamped" as again, there needs to be TONS of friction to make that much heat. The rotor would not be red hot like that if the brake and wheel had locked. Also, if he had locked a rear wheel like that, as Gagan said, he would have experienced shock oversteer along the lines of if the handbrake had been pulled. IMHO the red rotor is plenty of evidence that the wheel did not lock, but there was a good amount of constant abnormal pressure, after the panic stop, on the line which caused the friction needed to deep fry the rotor.

If he were travelling at speed on the freeway, it would be highly unlikely that he would smell his rear brake burning until he stopped.

I am also not affiliated with anyone here and the only person I have met was you when I let you borrow my intake for a smog.
wombatsauce is offline  
Old 11-25-2008, 12:39 AM
  #58  
banned
iTrader: (13)
 
I<3subie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Walnut Creek Ca..
Posts: 2,746
Car Info: heel'n toe da hoe...
Originally Posted by jewpac42
You say that like you know what happened. You dont know what happened. We have not gotten the entire story from the OP. I know more than most people here who have posted about this situation and I am waiting to see if we will get a truthful answer from the OP about the amount of time and or miles drived until this happened. Also, as Gagan has said, if this were to have happened like the OP stated, when his wheel loked up his car would have turned, violently, to the left, wheels do not lock up at speeds he is talking about while the car stays travelling in a straight line. Also, I find it very difficult to believe he did not smell the caliper or rotor burning, that is a very strong unpleasant odor that if I smelled near my car I would check immediately to be sure nothing is wrong, which he has stated he did not do.



I feel the need to state that I am in no way, shape or form affiliated with Stevens Creek Subaru in any manner what so ever.

For me.. On my 900 Supersport I was going down the fast lane at 80 mph. Then 70 mph then 50 mph. At 1st I thought it was a head wind. Then I hit 50 down to 40 and was like wtf is my motor seizing.

So I was able to get over to the right hand shoulder. I got off the bike and looked at the motor.. going to check the oil level. I saw smoke.. Then flame. Then me tossing dirt on the caliper. spit hell I was ready to **** on the damn thing..

After it cooled off for a bit but still way to hot to touch. That brake would not move for anything. It would drag the rear tire. I cut the brake line thinking I could move the pistons back. Didnt have any tools. I took my key and cut the brake line. Got sprayed in the face with brake fluid vapor. That really really sucked....

I then was able to get the pads out. one clip and one pin holding them. After that is was a very slow ride off the freeway into san ramon.

Now this had been like this for about a week. The student failed to set the master rear brake free play on the master cylinder,
So about 50 miles each way to work. 100 miles a day for atleast 6 days. 600 miles before failure. My bike never locked up till it cooled off. I know the STi has more torque and more power then my ducati. So he could have been driving that for a month or two. Your not going to get a failure right away. You could make a bunch of short trips and never get enough heat. Remeber the job of the brake system is to bleed off heat.

I'm not defending anyone I'm talking about what I know. I do think its allot easier to believe that a dealer flat rate tech screwed up. Not the 1st time. Then james bond picking his car out of millions for say covert ops.

Someone call mythbusters.
I<3subie is offline  
Old 11-25-2008, 12:40 AM
  #59  
banned
iTrader: (13)
 
I<3subie's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Walnut Creek Ca..
Posts: 2,746
Car Info: heel'n toe da hoe...
oh and I dont know the car party involved, I have bought parts from stevens creek and have test drove a few cars from them. Almost bought a car from them too.


oh and I never smelled the rear brake. Untill I vaporized my nose.... lol I think I can still smell that too..

Last edited by I<3subie; 11-25-2008 at 12:46 AM.
I<3subie is offline  
Old 11-25-2008, 08:12 AM
  #60  
I don't need more cowbell dammit!
iTrader: (5)
 
jewpac42's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Equally as important as Walter
Posts: 3,203
Car Info: E82
Originally Posted by wombatsauce
Again, it never says the wheel locked. He says "the brake stayed locked" but I think he meant "clamped" as again, there needs to be TONS of friction to make that much heat. The rotor would not be red hot like that if the brake and wheel had locked. Also, if he had locked a rear wheel like that, as Gagan said, he would have experienced shock oversteer along the lines of if the handbrake had been pulled. IMHO the red rotor is plenty of evidence that the wheel did not lock, but there was a good amount of constant abnormal pressure, after the panic stop, on the line which caused the friction needed to deep fry the rotor.

If he were travelling at speed on the freeway, it would be highly unlikely that he would smell his rear brake burning until he stopped.

I am also not affiliated with anyone here and the only person I have met was you when I let you borrow my intake for a smog.
You would smell your brake burning, the same way you smell your clutch burning. Not to mention you should notice a significant lack of braking power after such an event so I find it hard to believe he drove along for a while without noticing either 1) the smell of the burning brake or 2) the severe drop off in braking power.
jewpac42 is offline  


Quick Reply: Brake Failure -- Dealer to Blame?



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 02:27 AM.