2005 WRX Wagon
Driver 175lb
Suspension mods:
-Whiteline 24mm adjustable rear swaybar (set on medium)

Primary Angles:

FRONT:
......................Inital....................Fi nal
Caster:
Left.................3.6°.....................3.6°
Right................3.9°.....................4.0°
Camber:
Left................ -0.4°................... -0.5°
Right............... 0.2°................... -0.5°
Toe:
Left................ -3/16"................. 1/32"
Right.............. -1/4" ................. 1/32"
Total.............. -7/16"................. 1/16"

REAR:
Camber:
Left................. -1.7°................... -1.8°
Right................ -1.5°................... -1.7°
Toe:
Left................. -3/32".................. 1/16"
Right................ -1/16".................. 1/16"
Total................ -5/32".................. 1/8"
Thrust Angle....... -0.1°................... 0.0°

Secondary Angles:
SAI:
Left...................13.6°....................13 .8°
Right..................13.7°....................13 .7°
Included Angle:
Left...................13.2°....................13 .1°
Right..................13.9°....................13 .2°

Did not find a thread like this, just had my car aligned, thought it might be fun. Got the work done at Custom Alignment in Mountain View. Don't know what the "secondary angles" are but I posted them anyway.

The keystroke for "°" is "Alt0176"

 

why do you have a ton more camber in the rear than front?

my specs:
front: -2.25 camber 0 toe 0 caster
rear: -2 camber 0 toe 0 caster

05 wrx
cobb 25mm sways f/r
kartboy endlinks
stance lx+ coilovers
ingalls camber bolts

corner balanced and aligned at evasive

 

front: -1.5 camber 0 toe +4 caster
rear: -.5 camber 0 toe 0 caster

06 STi
-Whiteline ALK
-KW V3 coilovers
-DMS camber plates - front
-KW pillow ball mounts - rear
-Cobb HD sway mounts - rear
-Cobb 25mm hollow sways - front/rear

 

My daily drive alignment is:
-1.2 front
-0.7 rear
0 toe
caster was 3.6 / 3.8

Would be more aggressive if less than 90% of my driving were freeway, but at least it doesn't plow through corners quite like the stock alignment. The tire wear is not bad if you rotate and have enough freeway miles (fronts wear inside, rears outside on freeway miles. harder driving puts all outside wear, at these low camber angles, of course.)

02 WRX
Koni inserts into painted stock housings / Swift SpecR STi springs
Group N front / 04-05 Group N rear
Whiteline ALK
Whiteline Rear Sway and HD mounts
Whiteline adjustable lateral links
Powerflex Trailing arm bushings
TiC Fender cowl braces

 

don't know that's just where the shop put it. too much?

 

you want to have more camber up front than in the rear. it will help reduce understeer feel and give you better turn in. i would encourage a .5 degree difference minimum between the front and rear (ex: -1.5f -1r).

there are stock camber bolts up front, so try max those out next time, if not you can get some camber plates. aftemarket camber bolts can go in the rear for adjustment. (i don't recommend aftermarket camber bolts up front).

i think it's weird you have that much rear negative camber on stock suspension.

 

I'll have to look in my car... but....

In race trim... 2710lbs.

Front, -3 degree, 0 toe.
Rear, -1 degree, 0 toe.

I could list all my suspension tidbits... but I'd be here forever.

 

I've got more camber in rear as well (according to my alignment) gotta get some camber bolts in there...who makes them?

 

eibach or ingalls both are cheap, like $20



camber plates make everything way easier though

 

Should I take it back in? or will I be ok for a thousand miles or so when I want to rotate tires? I would need a rear camber bolt to get rid of some of the negative camber, or should the alignment shop be able to take care of it without one?

 

I should let you drive my wagon to see the difference correct camber makes.


If you went to a regular shop or like firestone or something like that they are gonna put you in stock range. Stock range means way more rear camber than front. This creates an understeer situation. It's safer for the average driver.

What you want for AWD car for performance driving is more in the front than the back. Some shops just plain won't do it. I have to trick firestone everytime.

Everyone prefers different degrees but if I make a drive I'll take you for a spin.

My advice... get something like -1.3 up front and 0 the rear out. That's a good starting point.


I run -1.8 up front and -.7 in the rear.

 

Camber front 2.75
Camber rear 2.5
front and rear toe zero
No front sway bar
Cusco rear sway bar
Whiteline ALK

 

That's probably fun as hell to drive.

 

Contributing...

My specs are:
Zero toe front and rear
-1.2 camber in the front
-0.9 camber in the rear

I have BC Coilovers with Cusco rear LCA's, and a WRX rear sway bar.

My camber is probably a little different now though since I dropped the car another inch or so since it was last aligned. When I go back in I'll be asking for -1.5 in the front and -1.0 in the rear.

 

1.9 front camber
1.2 rear camber